Turbo BS Thread

could just grab an el cheapo Amazon rack and work on your oem on the bench.

 

Is a possibility too.

Looking at this photo, I may be able to un-bolt the top section. Re-clock, then reassemble. Sounds easier than it probably is though.

 

They might use a different thread pitch and internals. The parts inside dont need to do what OEM does. Just the external connection points.

 

@yota243
Pour a gallon or so of methanol in with that E and try to slosh it around.

@Torspd
There is a large hex and with a jam nut behind it. Mark the large hex and back it out. This presses the pinion against the rack is my understanding. I came across some threads on 4x4Pirate or somewhere years ago talking about tightening it on older high mileage R&Ps to get a little more life out of them. Back it out until you can feel the teeth slipping around (if it will) and then tighten back to mark.

 

I thought about it, but I'm just gonna drop the tank and drain it, it was less than half anyway. The crappy thing is is that the stations I was getting e85 at swapped to circle K and I don't think they carry it... I think my injectors are too big for my piggy back to pull enough fuel for 93 octane. Gonna have to break my own still back out I guess lol

 

Could just drain it via the fuel rail into a bucket. I’ve done this a few times over the years.

 

I was way over thinking this, forgot that the fuel pump kit from urd came with an inline filter to add... Couple hose clamps later and I'm in business

 

Also 2nd genners with a short bed... You cannot get to the sending unit by removing the bed... So now I'm contemplating a flat bed so I don't have to put the bed back on

 

Well, I put everything back together and it started to crank for a second then made a bad noise again... No bueno, bout to drop the pan I guess

 

=(

 

She is currently locked, it spun over ok for a little while, but I put a pull handle on the crank and it moved 1/4 turn or so and stopped. I scoped up through the oil pan and the rods I could see looked intact and straight... I've never in my life hope I have had a blown head gasket in my life, but that wouldn't explain the lock up too much, I guess I'll pull the plugs again see if I can turn it again and hope the sheer compression is locking me out

 

Ohhh head gaskets is blown, coolant leaked into the cylinder and now there is water back in the cylinder and it won't turn... Could I be so lucky?

 

Yikes. Seems like my sorta luck. New clutch and slave on my project Audi and maybe 3000 miles on it and the clutch pedal goes to the floor. Brake reservoir shares the same fluid it’s fine. Had to crank in gear to get where I was headed but I’m 900 miles from home. Will be pulling the slave in a day or two and hope it’s that and not the pushrod falling out or I’ll be reduced to pulling trans to retrieve it. Odd the fluid level is fine but I checked level immediately.

 

Looking for some advice. Finally getting around to installing a remanufactured head and strip out a cam bearing cap hole before it hit torque. Do you think the rebuilder has any obligation to make this right?

Looking at my options if they are unwilling to do anything, I can try a longer bolt but sourcing a M7x1.0 40mm might be challenging and that still won't be a gaurentee. I think I saw another engine uses a 44mm that could be cut down.

A timesert seems to have been a good fix for others but thats a decent penny for what it is. Hoping at the very least the builder could cover that cost as I don't think I've done anything wrong. Anyone have experience with these?

 

Can't you just undo the rag joint and recenter the rack then put the rag joint back on?

I'd imagine if the pinion slipped it might be damaged though.

 

I would put a regular old helicoil in there and not think twice about it.

 

Prayers that is all.

 

This

 

Possible. I have not yet had the chance to look at it.