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Dome light issues 04 prerunner.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by AV8R4LIFE, Jan 25, 2024.

  1. Mar 18, 2024 at 2:47 PM
    #61
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    Looks like I’ve got the same thing.
    IMG_0962.jpg
     
  2. Mar 18, 2024 at 2:59 PM
    #62
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    Tried to get as many pics that showed the numbers as possible. If anyone knows what size this is that would be awesome.
    IMG_0967.jpg IMG_0965.jpg IMG_0969.jpg IMG_0962.jpg
     
  3. Mar 18, 2024 at 2:59 PM
    #63
    HoneyBadger153

    HoneyBadger153 Well-Known Member

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    That's actually really helpful now that I can see the 0.3. Must be a 0.33 ohm resistor same as the other user replaced - still wonder what wattage it's supposed to be though.
     
  4. Mar 18, 2024 at 3:00 PM
    #64
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    Check the other pics, I think there was more writing on the other side.
     
  5. Mar 18, 2024 at 3:42 PM
    #65
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    Ive heard that the physical size of the resistor can be related to the wattage, but otherwise I don’t know how you’d figure that out. Hopefully some electronics guru will be along with words of wisdom
     
  6. Mar 18, 2024 at 5:51 PM
    #66
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    I was able to get my board out without pulling the whole module. Once you remove the four screws holding the board in, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and a 90 degree pick to CAREFULLY and GENTLY pry and pull the board out. There are four spots on the board that are held down by clips in the body ECU, which you can depress with the flat blade while gently wiggling and prying upwards. Once your past the tabs the hard part is getting it to pop loose from the main connection on the left side of the board. You can get under the board with the 90 degree pick and wiggle and lift until it pops loose. Saves going under the dash and dealing with that nightmarish tangle of connectors.
     
  7. Mar 18, 2024 at 7:49 PM
    #67
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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  8. Mar 18, 2024 at 7:51 PM
    #68
    0xDEADBEEF

    0xDEADBEEF Swaying to the Symphony of Destruction

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    Yep. Generally speaking the bigger they are, the more heat they can dissipate and therefore the higher the wattage rating. What sucks about a picture on the itnernet is its really hard to get a sense of scale. That could be a 1/4 watt...maybe a whole watt, I guess? I'd have to pull down some parts datasheets with the same value and see how they measure up against that one.
     
    AV8R4LIFE[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  9. Mar 18, 2024 at 7:54 PM
    #69
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    0xDEADBEEF likes this.
  10. Mar 18, 2024 at 7:56 PM
    #70
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    Really appreciate the help man. If this works, it sounds like this will be a big help for other guys who’ve had the same issue.
     
    0xDEADBEEF[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Mar 19, 2024 at 8:16 AM
    #71
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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  12. Mar 19, 2024 at 1:54 PM
    #72
    HoneyBadger153

    HoneyBadger153 Well-Known Member

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    :bowdown: You are a true hero. The dome lights shall live to see another day soon!
     
  13. Mar 19, 2024 at 5:25 PM
    #73
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    Not a hero. A victim of my severe OCD.
     
  14. Apr 1, 2024 at 10:27 AM
    #74
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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  15. Apr 1, 2024 at 10:30 AM
    #75
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    Finally have functional door switch dome light again!!! :yes:
     
    0xDEADBEEF likes this.
  16. Apr 1, 2024 at 10:38 AM
    #76
    HoneyBadger153

    HoneyBadger153 Well-Known Member

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    SICK!! Mine are coming from DigiKey (got the flame retardant ones) and I'll be putting them in when I get the truck back. Glad yours are working again!
     
  17. Apr 1, 2024 at 10:41 AM
    #77
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    I think mine are flame retardant as well, I also went with with a 3 watt instead of a 2 watt to prevent it from burning out in the future. Fit on the board just fine. Also made sure to give it a bit of space between it and the board for cooling purposes.
     
  18. May 26, 2024 at 3:39 PM
    #78
    HoneyBadger153

    HoneyBadger153 Well-Known Member

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    You were right about not having to unplug all the cables on the back - I just didn't believe you and spent a good 30 minutes chewing up my fingers only to find out that yeah you just wiggle the board out. I had to use two/three plastic spudgers at the top and bottom of the left hand side of the board where that edge connector runs. Replaced the resistor (mine had a gaping hole on the underside from where it blew out) and voila my lights work again! I'm uploading pictures of the front and back of the board in case anybody needs them later on:
    PXL_20240526_191612438.jpg PXL_20240526_191627550.jpg
    First has red circles where I would put the spudgers alternating lifting on top and bottom to wiggle it off.
    Second are my solder points. Looks like there might have been a Rev 1 board at some point so maybe there's another variant of this board out there somewhere.
     
  19. May 26, 2024 at 6:38 PM
    #79
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    Congrats man that’s awesome!!! Yeah once it breaks free of the pins and retaining clips it comes out pretty easy. Wish I’d known that the first time around before I spent 3 hours unplugging everything and getting the computer out just to miss that resistor being the problem!
     
  20. May 26, 2024 at 6:45 PM
    #80
    AV8R4LIFE

    AV8R4LIFE [OP] Aircraft Mechanic

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    Also, have to ask since I’ve never heard of it. What the heck is a spudger?
     

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