fit 35's?

I dont have any photos on the truck but i took off 2” in the rear and i think 2 1/4” on the front. I think if you take off the same amount of actual fender they are about a 1/2” farther back than the flare.
It looked good but I didn’t realize the front flare is actually shorter than the rear one. At least on long beds. More of an aesthetic thing than for clearing tires. That was for 285/75/17. 2” i would think for 35s. Anything less and you have the long flares flopping around more

 

Has anyone tried upgrading the body mounts with something slightly bigger, like an extra inch or 1-1/4 higher? I had to chop my body mounts, pretty much as far as I could, then welded a plate with 4 coats of spray paint. I’m sure there’s some body lifts that surpassed the suspension lift

 

Break down the leaf pack to the main spring or two (like in the photo) and do it the same way you’d do with the front by jacking one tire up all the way and the other side down (not like in the photo where they’re just cycling for bump height - not tire clearance).

 

I fucked up and threw out my faded falling off flares. Finding replacements for cheap will be impossible.
It looks good now but the nice thing about flares is because they stick wider out that even with a good looking non-extreme cut they can still clear
The metal fender is narrower inward putting it more above the tire rather than outside.

with a flare you can easily hide cutting the hell out of the fender behind it to get that high clearance to cycle.

right now my wrenching is typically done in a parking spot which is why I’m hesitant to yank the shock out to cycle. That is gonna be some time labor. Was hoping for something quicker and easier but it may be unavoidable and come with the territory.

I thought I’d try starting with 1”
But I don’t think anybody makes parts to fit 1”. The new C4 metal liners probably require more cut if I put them later on (who doesn’t want them?)
Who knows what their vinyl template is like.

I will ask if I can buy just their vinyl template so I can make a nice cut that has future comparability with their parts without making my fenders incompatible. They’re the only metal liner on the market now.

I’m thinking of taking the fenders off (should be easy) to be actually able to make a clean cut without a jigsaw going past deeper hitting into my truck. Into anything right behind it like pinch weld, tub, cab mount, etc
So I’m not freehand floating a jigsaw wobbly or having the blade smack into it, scratch, and break the pricey bimetal blade.

hopefully one blade is enough to do all 4.
Looking at what jigsaw now to get. Leaning towards the current package sale Home Depot Ryobi cordless 4.8amp including battery.

My idea (at the time) on flares was they looked aesthetic only and would rather yank them off than deal with craftsmanship so they’d scrape a wall instead of my tire
But that has changed switching to 10.5” wides and more outward offset

I am thinking of cutting 2” front and rear as a mere 1” when I look at tape measure on the fender looks basically negligible…

I think that’s what the CMR (cab mount relocate) from DRT and now C4fab as well was invented for.

I hear CMC’s are $300 OTD all day.
Was quoted $1k for CMR and buddy who had it done said this is too high and more than what his was.

thanks. TIL.
that sounds like a fuck ton of work I’ve gotten myself into. But likely the only way to properly do it.
That or start wheeling (after basic eyeball cuts) to find out flexing what rubs and “let the trail do it for me”

the wheel wells are dirty enough to where I’ll likely see any clean evidence of rub later on if it continues after basic initial “adjustments”

would be a good time to put anti squeak pads though and clean + lube leafs

I wonder if there’s other ways to do it.
One way could be lift the tire with a HiLift but that would be sketchy.
And might only work on the rear not front. Because you couldn’t turn the wheel while doing that. Unless the steering is locked.

Or buddys forklift.
Loading ramp.
Rhino ramps are probably too short.
A lot faster to pull up on a loading ramp than take apart a leafpack.

funny enough with setup besides 35’s
On 33’s basically had zero rubbing
Taking that into consideration, that 35 now by math adds 1” to any given side of the tire, that means fender likely needs at least 1” cut
Bumper at least 1” cut
Which may as well be done because wide stock fenders look worse than trimmed and leave a rounded edge you can’t put edge trim on. It’ll likely rub them when stuffed

I overlooked how stupid IMO the factory design of ARB side corners is compared to literally every other bumper
evenly cutting it would cut into the side crash support at the bottom hidden tucked inside

their install instructions also state to leave a gap of 15-20mm which also does not look good and puts the bumper even lower and inward closer to the tire

 

Take the coil over out and mount the tire and cycle with a floor jack and turn wheel. The tire will tell you where to trim.

 

My flares are cut about 1”

the fenders are cut like 2.5” or so since I used to have flares that were cut significantly more (not necessary)

 

Took roughly an inch out the fenders

looks better IMO
front tire slightly rubbed above itself but likely due to low height
Gonna swap in HD springs, maybe a click higher on left for Taco lean
Maybe set both higher

plan is when getting an alignment to ask for as much + caster as possible. Same on both sides. With close to 0 toe and camber

marked the bumper. Now just trying to figure out best way to cut it. Grinder cutoff wheel, right angle wheel, or jigsaw.

Was reading up on trimming bumpers and found a bunch of posts saying find anywhere that has a plasma cutter, they can do it quick easy and cheap
Big If True

 

Height won't help, your suspension will still have the same travel. Easiest thing to do is bump your up travel but than you lose out on up travel. More lift only helps at ride height

 

in that case I wonder if in addition to raising it and HD springs
If it continues to hit the top of the tub/well, to put bumpstops spacers like these. Current bumpstops are Perry Parts

because I’ve heard if the tire smacks the factory metal? on top too hard it will start to cause fatigue, break, bend, cracks/tears, and possibly transmit force into other areas damaging them as well

 

It's an easy bandaid. The right thing to do is tub the wheel wells and keep all your travel

 

Put some rubber edge trim on your fenders. Cleans up the look a bit.

 

I will
not done yet, was gonna say
I think more work will be needed

so far have cut ~1" fender, ~1" bumper
gonna cut 1 more inch each, to "upgrade" the cuts into 2"
it will look better

front tire top center flexed barely clears fender, so add any real turning it probably won't.
Will hammer pinch weld out. Maybe after I figure out how to clean/prep to touch up scratches I made while cutting.
Plan now is wash, degrease, agitate with brush, rinse off, dry, touch up paint.
Then hammer outward when I figure out which hammer is needed, and kinda do that again.

Big problem I found flexing on that rock pile,
front can't turn. The whole tub wheel well area, compressed the tire is right on it. Looking like it's next to/running parallel to a wall. That "tub"/well (that you see more after a fender cut) is what gets up close and personal with the tire.

Ain't no fender inch trim gonna change that.
But, I am hoping that by improving my front shocks it fixes it.
#1, need to figure out how much higher to set these Bilstein 6112
#2, need to swap in HD springs (higher spring rate) due to having steel bumper

might rent a jigsaw from Home Depot, try to measure backwards from the fender holes to draw a line
and start the narrow clearance cut at bottom of fender with a precise right angle cutoff, then finish the main body of the cut with jigsaw.
Starting with circular little cutoff will prevent a repeat of jigsaw blade smacking into body behind fender.

I'm hesitant to cut into or beyond that square "internal structure brace" I've been slowly creeping towards hidden in the ARB bumper, shown in pic

6112 is the previous design, so might try I believe what is max, clips 5(L for taco lean) / 4 Right
aka left at top, right 1 clip down from top
+ HD springs
either adjusted on truck, or off truck (kinda have to the first time to put HD springs)
I've got this tool from Amazon, hopefully it works...

 

CMR done, no more cab mount rub

did notice pinch weld rub
thinking it may need Spidertrax 1.25" spacers. Current wheel/tire is Method 17x8.5 I believe ET0 4.75"BS, which doesn't stick out that far. Their 17x9 ET12? might stick out farther but spacers look like a cheaper way to get the same end result.

However, that would likely mean more scrubbing of the pinch weld.
Normally, no problem. Everyone hammers it out flat.

Thing is, C4 came out with metal Liners that advise to hammer inward, not outward.
Anyone been through this?

I see they have a long lead time. They look nicer than FendX.
Seems like the only option here would be to get the Liners, install them, then eyeball how much more I can trim the fenders
so as to not trim beyond where the Liner goes. Hopefully it is decently high up to allow more fender trim.

Current fender trim is only ~1" on all 4 corners and I think would look better with more taken off.
Maybe change to 2" off, each corner



also, are bump stop spacers (such as 1/4") needed?
according to vendor descriptions, sounds like yes
Icon: "limit up travel for clearance of larger tires when the suspension is fully compressed"

^which sounds like it could help reduce likelihood of tire hitting up into the tub, etc.

 

You could accomplish the same thing with 1/8" HDPE for a fraction of the cost.

 

was looking at FendX, not sure if it matters something like that vs metal

 

Honestly, I'd do anything other than drop $500 on liners lol

 

improve my vehicle by beating it with a hammer for $0?


I've been waiting for this moment all my life

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...el-picture-extravaganza.439830/#post-12771628

 

got it. So hammer the pinch weld out, seam seal, forget about everything else, and call it a day.
In that case I think I'll get the 1.25" hub spacers first, then flex test it again to see if the fenders need more trimming.

I wonder if there's a better way to mark that than eyeballing. That's how I did the first inch. Didn't turn out horrible, but it's not perfect either.
Not sure how they do it from factory.
If they map it out in CAD or something.

If not, might just draw freehand best I can on tape, measuring down from the fender bolt holes, and try to put a nice curve into the shape maybe using different color tape.
Laser scan the fender and customize a vinyl template to outline cut? Nope. Freehand sharpie marker. Whole front fender is ideally only $50 used anyway, for a stock non-fiberglass part. Doesn't need to be perfect.


Just hit the tub with brush, cleaner, rinse, dry. Probably gonna spray it with a coating to protect metal, and hide it discreetly
that and let the paint leave witness marks to diagnose future rubbing
might just hit it with regular black for now. Might not even need masking in there.