TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Also for anyone interested in the Solid Mounts. They also have a $30 refund for sending back part of your stock mounts. I think it's only the passenger side, but it is something to also consider as part of the overall cost.

 

Regardless how much, grease only lasts so long when these bearings are spinning >13k RPMs no matter how high quality of the bearing it is. And when the grease drys out bearings over heat warp and eventually grenade. You have to clean and repack grease in bearings with that high of RPMs before they run dry and they will last a very long time.

Those legit koyo bearings made in Japan are the best. Think magnuson switched to nsk.

You should get some legit replacement bearings for your old pulleys @Murphinator and have a solid swap out each year where you can then easily find time to clean and repack grease on that new set when the time comes.

Rob you know I dropped my stealth 2.55 pulley size way back.

 

Thanks for all the trouble putting this together. I contacted SCOL and getting a quote for all the bearings you mentioned. I’ll get them just for the peace of mind of having a spare set.

 

Im hoping I wont have to do this sooner than I planned. trucks been sitting at a shop for 6 months likely outside most of the time. This rain has not been nice to things around here. Prob not as big of a deal but the vents in my hood allow water to get in around there.

 

Holy information dump batman. That's some seriously good stuff right there. Kudos for taking your time out to line item and diagram everything!

 

Glad I could help! I have been wanting to get these bearings since they were announced, and even calling/emailing it was like pulling teeth to figure out what was actually available. This should make it simple for those who are looking at replacements so they can go in knowing exactly what they need. Not knocking scol, I get it’s hard for everyone working there to know everything about every setup. Hopefully they add them to their web store which will streamline the ordering process.

 

Yes, I have the Bozen mounts installed and been running for a while.

Any idea on install LoE or steps? I'm assuming trans mount is support the trans and undo bolts and wiggle into place??

 

pretty much the trans mount was super easy. just like you said. loossen, lift, swap, tighten back in biz.

 

Ok, the initial response is that a GB is happening. I am waiting to hear back on pricing, but he liked the initial QTYs and that they were all 4.0's.

For now, you can assume we are live pending pricing.

If anyone knows folks with 3.4 motors we would need to get similar numbers to make it happen.

 

Very cool, also just wanna say I appreciate you doing so many group buys lately! I feel like its been awhile since there have been some GBs on here, ever since covid really it seems they don’t really happen much.

 

Thanks. Once you have pricing we could probably pick up a few more in the 2nd Gen thread too.

 

Question for the smart guys in the room.

SpeedHut AFR gauge
https://speedhut.com/gauge-applicat...nd-with-analog-out-o2-gauge-8-5-18-w-warning/

Sensor:
https://speedhut.com/accessories/se...o2-sensor-for-the-standalone-afwb-gauge-only/

I just switched my fuel pressure reference port back from the boost port to the intake tube, thinking that it may help me run a little leaner AFRs, as whenever I’m in boost or WOT my AFR supposedly drops to 9.5, or the lowest my gauge will show.
At idle and normal driving it’ll be ~14.7 and the highest 18 when on decel.

Switching the reference port to the intake, the only change I’ve noticed driving is a laggyier / less responsive change in AFR’s, which makes sense. But AFR are still crazy low under boost and WOT.

however, I’ve also noticed that when sitting at a light or idling with the truck in Drive, the gauge cannot get an accurate reading, it goes crazy between 9.5 & 15 sporadically. The truck sounds good and I don’t think this is actually happening, I’d feel it. I shift it into Neutral, and AFR stabilized back at 14.7… any ideas what the cause is?
This didn’t happen with boost referencing the FPR. I’ll try changing back to this ‘mod’ and see if the AFR at idle in drive is back to normal.

im also questioning the AFR sensors accuracy… but have nothing to compare against. I’m on a stock TRD tune from Justin.

 

I think you were already nudged to get a new sensor, but here's from page 1:

 

Thanks, I have not seen many, but I'm hoping more are game. It helps you guys and helps some get the brand moving. Bonzan is crunching some numbers, but it likely will be similar to what he has offered in the past. Should be good. That was my plan. Once it's settled, then I'll open it up and post a thread, etc.

Once these are one I have the okay for a Baja Design GB if anyone wants a solid deal there.

 

Anyone looking for the Doug thorley headers? https://dougthorleyheaders.com/products/thy-515-ls-c-2005-2011-toyota-tacoma-07-12-fj-cruiser-4-0l-t304-long-tube-headers
There’s a local NA guy (Denver-ish) looking to go back to stock if you want to trade.

 

Read a few conflicting things, so hoping to clarify. Is my wideband AFR expected to read fully lean (19.9) occasionally, such as when coasting downhill, or is that an indication the bung is too close to the exhaust or something else wrong?

 

Yes, that's decel fuel cut. Totally normal.

 

So thanks to @CadCamMan I got my pcv vacuum line opened because I didn't know to cut back the tube so it's been blocked for the past 6 months without fresh air getting to my engine.

Is that going to mess with the AFR ratio at all? Did I do any damage or thinks to look at?

I can't believe this forum exists to help silly people like me lol

Edit: yes, yes it did mess with the AFR Jesus lol. At 3/4 WOT I saw it trickling down to 8.8 so I backed off. Time to stay out of boost until that gets sorted, luckily at 0 on the gauge it's still 14.6.

 

Wait I may have missed it, but what did you have blocked off that made your AFR go down to 8’s? Tube from the driver valve cover to the S/C ?

 

He had the intake tube covering the hole for the hose so nothing was ever happening. When you add the tube and blower you need to shorten the tube so it does not block it. You can also push it out and tighten but best is to cut. Looks like he cut the tube so it no longe blocks it.