Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Ya I can see how it looks like i'm asking what they are...

 

This is correct. They replied exactly this although I’m not sure of the advantage. To run the LCA all the way forward without hitting the tie rods? Would a higher shock mount also change the amount of droop travel vs oem coil bucket setup?

 

If they move the shock up 2 inches then use a 2 inch longer rod end...it all stays the same. Thing is, as long as you use a stock spindle the outer tie rod end limits down travel and the upper uniball cup limits uptravel.

 

LCA outer pivot isn’t far from being an issue after that either. I was looking at building a UCA and spindle for mine this winter. Gains would’ve been minimal. Just gonna do a big step up soon.

 

I saw that and sent it to @snowsk8air2 and he had a good point. You know how JD has you cut the upper towers to use their adapter that pushes the top of the shock up? But then it makes the top weak and bends easy? This would be to eliminate cutting the hole and just have a stronger fabbed top part of the tower.

 

So its a stronger upper mount not necessarily a long shock.

 

Just a thought that popped up bouncing ideas around with you. Yourself and a few others have bent the stock shock towers with the JD kit. Not that other kits haven’t had people bend it as well when driving hard.

 

Agreed, reinforcing/repairing the stock shock towers is a good idea...but if I'm going to cut them all the way out, I guess what's the point of running stock geometry and shock lengths?

Not being intentionally contrarian, just curious. I dont have a great grasp on what the fab cost of that might be...if they make the front shock mounts like their rear ones that are pretty easy to burn in, maybe it's a pretty quick job.

 

I think MitchMade makes a whole custom upper mount setup. Removes the antidive. $600 for a WIY setup. https://www.mitchmadeinc.com/product-page/toyota-anti-dive-delete-coilover-and-bypass-mount

 

This is a great kit to foot note for the future. What length shocks are those?

 

In the pictures, they’re 8 inch shocks. But I know from IG he just made a custom set for 10 inch shocks.

 

@tacotunner06 is running the 10” setup.

Without a vertical uniball I would be concerned though as our horizontals were designed with the antidive. I feel it would clock the uniball enough to limit travel.

 

Yeah, at the point of cutting them all the way out you're better off making any and all improvements you can. But then you start getting into a spindle as well. So once stock geometry is tossed out, open that wallet.

 

yeah the 10's worked well with mine since i already had the dirt designs kit which has vertical uniballs. but where Mitch put the coilover mounts wasn't high enough for me and i had to move them higher when i did my engine cage. all worked out in the end just wasn't an out of the box solution.

 

Does anyone run a transmission skid with JD's inner pivot kit? It looks like the RCI will fit but it uses the same holes as the pivot kit does for it's rear locating tabs and the 8mm bolt to the frame, e.g., attached. I guess I should stop being lazy and drop the pivot skid to see if the RCI trans skid can even contour around the pivot kit correctly.

 

I had Jesse cut the RCI trans skid to mount flush to the pivot kit skid. He then weld 2 mounts to bolt up to the cross bar.

 

Thanks! Cool. That's kind of what I was going to do but I was planning to drop the pivot skid, pull the 8mm locating bolts, cut the RCI trans skid raised wings and then slid it under since my pivot skid wasn't flush against the crossmember anyways. But maybe it should have been.

 

I asked Jesse to just cut it flush with the pivot skid. I think it should work fine. It has about an 1/8” gap from the pivot skid.

 

I got it installed but it’s pretty ghetto right now. I think the best thing to do would be to drill a new hole through the pivot skid and sandwich the transmission skid between the pivot skid and the frame, reusing the original 8mm locator holes that the RCI skid normally uses. The downside with this is that my driver side hole is now hollow: the nut that sits inside the crossmember came loss and is gone at some point. So I just pinned it awkwardly between and I’ll cut the transmission skid shirt when I’m back with my angle grinder.

Second picture shows how clean it would be if you drilled a hole through and used the original m8 spot.

 

it needs work to make fit. I believe JD knows how to. Because otherwise the RCI skid tries to overlap sticking out underneath hanging without a way to secure in front, if you try mocking it up without any modification to make work.

am in the same boat. Pivots skid. RCI trans skid is in storage. I need to get exhaust reroute done to clear it. I’ll hit them up after that’s done to ask.

right now I know of 3 local exhaust shops that might be able to do reroute. They seem to do good work. Guessing it doesn’t matter which one. Gonna roll the dice I guess.
I thought URD Y pipe might be a better idea but it’s out of stock and Roostfactor is NLA.

-Andy’s muffler
-American muffler
-Ace muffler

not sure if the RCI skid would get trimmed approx an inch off the front with a plasma cutter or what.