When replacing hub/bearing assembly..

What else should I freshen up/replace? Also have a new axle nut ordered.
Also, any friendly advice on attacking these things is greatly appreciated.

 

Watch a couple of YT videos first. Spray some WD-40 or PB on your wheel speed sensor first and WIGGLE it out. Mine came out without breaking them.

 

The dust seal that goes in the back side of the knuckle would be a good idea to replace at the same time.
As well as the O-ring, but almost all the assemblies come with the O-ring.

Other than that, a 35mm socket, and 17mm wrench.
You can not get a socket on the hub bolts, so you need a wrench.
I use blue or orange loctite on the hub bolts too.

 

Removing the axle nut can be a PIA. If you don't have an assistant pressing on the brake pedal, there is a trick using a pry bar across two wheel studs, holding the rotor in place. Use lug nuts to prevent damaging the threads.

A crowfoot wrench will be needed to properly set the torque on the four hub to knuckle bolts.

 

Thank you sir. Do you happen to have a torque spec on that by chance?

 

59 ft lbs on the bolts, 173 for the axle nut.

 

Or you can jack up the front as planned, remove the cap covering the axle nut, remove the center cap from wheel, install the wheel, lower the truck and then apply the parking brake. This is obviously a little bit longer, but no assistant would be needed to hold the brake pedal while removing the axle nut.

 

Or just get an impact and zip it off. Save all these other ideas for actually torquing it down.

If you’re going to do your own work it really is a necessity.

 

I got mine off with a M12 1/2" stubby impact and pb blaster

 

This right here?

 

Yes, that one.

 

This^^^ @TnShooter Accurate as always

 

Actually I made a typo, the axle nut socket is 35mm….NOT 34.

 

Another idea if you don’t have impact or a helper is to put screwdriver blade in slot in rotor under the caliper and let that keep the axle from turning while removing the nut

 

I did that and bent my “cheap” screwdriver.
I then did this….
Just be sure to put the lug nuts on the studs the pry bar is resting on.
That way you don’t mess up the threads.

 

Downvoting your original post as we speak!

 

You could install the disc and caliper and ask someone to step on the brake. Less unnecessary tool stress or potential recoil.

 

I don't have a helper.
Never been married, no kids, and I "borrowed" the carport I was working in.
Plus, I don't like asking for help unless I "need" help.

 

Damn. Something I have done in the past is to secure a 4x4 in between the seat and the brake pedal. Then push the seat forward and do what you have to do. Only applies on A-track/crawl control equipped trucks.

 

Since we are talking tips and tricks. Here are some (non pro) ways to install the dust seal if you replace it. You can use a 2" PVC cap or even the dust cap supposedly. I didn't use either of those since I had rented a seal installer which wouldn't work on its own so I used a 2" PVC coupling with it.

The first two pics are borrowed and not mine but the last one is.