Stealership Oil Change...

Not worth the headache. Simple stuff like this you can and should do yourself to ensure that it’s getting done, and done right.

Would like to trust the dealership myself but only for warranty work. I’ve got a good tire shop down the road for all the other stuff I wouldn’t do myself.

 

The TRD skid is heavy and requires a something like a transmission lift if the truck is in the air. If the truck is on the ground it requires a floor jack to remove and reinstall. The splash guard is super easy to remove and reinstall. Different animal...

 

The question becomes, will the "Engines for Life" guarantee be honored if the dealership doesn't do the oil changes? Any experience with this?

 

^Read the fine print of the "Engines for Life" guarantee.

These "free" or "lifetime" oil changes will be half-assed, because the lube tech isn't paid enough to give AF. You basically have three options if you choose not to DIY:
1. Continue to get half-assed oil changes at the dealer.
2. Get an even more half-assed oil change at a chain like Midas where they'll upsell you on a transmissioin flush, fuel system flush, etc.
3. Go to a Toyota specialist indie shop that charges straight time and pay $100 for the oil change done to your satisfaction.

 

I give my truck a once over and take note of the filter, plug, and tires before service. I'll mark them with a sharpie. That way it's easy to tell if everything has been changed/swapped/rotated. If the dealer cuts a corner I don't give them a second chance.

I used my dealer for the free 2yr/25k services on my new truck. They did a great job and didn't cut any corners as far as I could tell. The garage bays are wide open, and they have a shop cam, so it's easy to see what they're doing. Since I had no issues, I plan to keep using them for my service.

 

I so wish there was something like this close to where I live. WY is a desert in more ways than one.

 

That's awesome. Finding a good shop/mechanic is hard at times, but when you do it's a great feeling.

 

Yes, the white grease pen markings would be the best bet. I'm going to remove the access panel this week to get a better look at it. I would think the housing and surrounding area should have some proof of being wiped. I have zero confidence in anyone other than myself so I'm not holding my breath.

 

It definitely just requires a single guy to remove and install with no special tools. Done it many times and have never, ever thought I’d need a transmission jack, just a second set of hands to make it easier.

 

It depends on the particular technician. Some use a muffler stand to assist and drop the skid anyway because the bigger skid plate bolts are impact wrench-friendly. It also allows them to open the filter cap without using the little drain spigot first. I know this because sometimes they lose a spacer and/or strip the threaded holes in the frame in the process, in which case they send you on your way with a bolt missing.

 

When I brought it in for the 5k mile free service I said I wanted the oil changed, even though according to the schedule it wasn't due until 10k miles. They changed the oil and didn't charge me for it, even though it wasn't supposed to be included at 5k. Then at the 10k they changed it again as part of the free 10k service. So, they've been a pretty good dealer so far.

 

i have a 2018 SR5 and there are grease zerks on the universals on the front propeller shaft. it is part of regular maint to hit them. some have reported finding them dry the first time they hit them.

+1 for no jack needed (at least for SR5).

i brought mine in for free oil changes and tire rot for the 1st 2 yrs (freebee period). it used to take hours to do those simple things except once it took less than 1/2 hr. i questioned them. they emailed me a video of the work being done by the technician...oil work and tire rot clearly visible. i guess they have been thru that before .

 

I did the same at 5k, and they just stated that it would use one of the two free changes that comes in the initial Toyota Care. I used the 2nd freebie at 15K because I changed it myself at 10K in order to add my Fumoto valve and Jowett filter housing. Again, I was told it would use the last change so if I came in at 20K I'd have to pay for the oil change, but the other stuff (tire rotation) would be covered like normal.

 

Can I replace the filter without draining the oil?

 

I can respect that, but I drop the skid when I do oil changes. Even on the ground, I don't find it too bad. Certainly better than cleaning up oil that gets splattered on the top side.

I suppose my big hint would be to remove one of the middle bolts last and start the threads on one of those first. The skid balances on them nicely.

 

Yep.

 

Good tip! Thanks!

 

2018 must have been the last year…….

 

You're welcome!

 

Thanks for verifying. I'll make sure I grease these when I'm under the truck.