1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Humidity hitting you really bad out there I take it? I heard reports of 300 pierces and said "fuuuuck that" but I'm also cutting a lot more often too

Had done a quick test cut (for slots and sizing) before going full ham on a sheet of 3/16"



Those consumables had over 300 pierces already

 

Don't let it get to you if it doesn't start on the first crank. It has to refill and Purge all the air out of the injectors

 

Yeah you are getting absolutely top tier results for the hardware. Make a plastic pressure vessel and freeze it to check your approximate dryness. If there's absolutely nothing a dryer won't be worth it.

I know a dryer would be good for me, but I only really do build projects for myself and I'm not running the machine enough to make it better than it currently is.

But the machine torch and a dryer are on my wishlist!

 

Ah shit, great idea

You're talking like those people use to trick their tire pressure sensor?

 

A 2 liter coke bottle can hold about 90psi. At least the old ones could. And, the base of a valve stem seals tightly in the neck.

 

Basically this, just make sure to purge it, and do a few fairly redundant checks. If you get more than a few droplets worth a dryer will help.

Also, how much moisture builds up in the tank of your compressor?

 

Proof that the cool kids drive Toyotas!

 

SHES ALIVE
No smoke, starts quick, not overheating

Faint whirring sound from the front driver side, head or timing belt area… something I should be concerned about?

 

Could be anything, new belts make noise, bearings in pulleys make noise when you tension more than previous if they were going out... Just monitor, but doesn't sound urgent by that description

 

I don’t know how I feel about these weights. Discount hid these on the back after they stacked over a pound of the stick on weights 4-5 tall with the first tire. I had the brand new tire replaced because the manager swore my wheel was fine. He then tried to convince me over 16oz of weight is perfectly normal on truck tires.

Swapping on my friend’s stock wheels and tires tomorrow to see how my truck drives with a known good setup.

 

That definitely looks like the "I didn't want to rotate the tire on the rim" special

 

Idk if you've seen the video but the shio was broken down... It lost power not even a minute or two before collision

 

Tell them to do it again and turn off the dynamic balance feature... Demand they do it again with a static balance

That *probably hunter* smart weight bullshit just gets confused with tires larger than ~30"

 

Yeah... I'll report back how the stock wheels/tires from my buddy's truck handle. But I'm going back and having them redo this wheel specifically at the other Discount location in town regardless.

What's crazy is they replaced a tire over this. If they're trying to be lazy and just get me out the door why deal with me 3 separate times. They could've just done it once correctly and saved time. They also lost my wheel spline lug key and made me dig through their stupid bucket of spline lug keys. When I brought my spare lug key in to compare to the manager said "well you're holding your key right there" and couldn't comprehend that I had two keys. I guess that answers my question.

 

I've been studying Dan's writeup on the LCAs - just a few points:

-It sounds like buying the Moog/Mevotech arms and polyurethane bushings separately are not much cheaper than just getting the OEM LCAs. I'm thinking I'd rather just take my chances with the Moog arms as they come, especially since it says you need a 20-ton press (I'm not sure if you can rent those anywhere?).

-Seems like a no-brainer to replace my leaky rack at the same time since it'd save on labor and I'm tired of it leaving drops everywhere. there's just no way I'm putting the old one back on. Maybe I could send it off to be rebuilt?

-Wow, the alignment hardware is pricey; almost 200 bucks alone! Do you really need to order those as well?

https://adventuretaco.com/guide/ste...ement-on-a-1st-gen-tacoma-or-3rd-gen-4runner/

 

If your alignment hardware turns then you don't need to order it. But if it seized you'll have to cut it free in which case you'll need new ones. I don't know if you noticed but I'm in the background of a lot of that work because the first time Dan saw it done was me Mike and other Dan doing it to Mike's truck.

 

Yea it's a great writeup but I feel like the expense of that OEM hardware is kinda glossed over. It would really suck for them to be seized and end up dead in the water though. They never mentioned it being seized at the shops I've been to however.

 

Well that's exactly what happened and that's why it got mentioned in the right of. Mike and I ended up driving to three different Toyota dealers to piece together enough hardware to put his truck back together. It's fairly expensive if you buy the OEM hardware but if you buy the aftermarket ones they just break so you might as well get the OEM ones and make sure to put anti-seize on them and then you don't have to have to worry about them seizing again or ever having to buy them again. All four of the ones came out of my last two 1996 trucks just fine. Really though unless you're in dire straits the cost isn't that much, it's like $200 and you're set. Immigrant scheme of things I don't know where you could get any other alignment hardware new for another platform for any less

 

That’s fine but I don’t understand why everyone seems to balk at the cost of just getting the OEM LCAs in that case. The cost of the Moog plus poly bushings is not really much cheaper, and then you need the “special” tools like the 20 ton press etc. or have a shop press them in.