Any aftermarket control arms to avoid?

Im refreshing my suspension and I don’t have the time or gumption to replace the control arm bushings. Aftermarket control arms seem to be about $60 more than a set of bushings so I’m happy to pay for the convenience.

For ball joints I will be sourcing OEM parts from Toyota but is there any issue with going with Mevotech control arms? Or Moog as another option?

if anyone knows where in Canada I can find replacement leaf spring packs, I’m all ears.

truck is 2000 2.4L 5 lug SR5

 

Go OEM unless you're doing a lift or something, the slightest change in geometry can affect handling and that was enough to convince me to not take a chance on aftermarket. Agreed on the bushings though, it would have added at least 6 hours to my project.

 

I'd just bite the bullet and install fresh bushings into your stock LCA's. It doesn't take that long and you won't have to worry about buying cheap aftermarket LCA's.

For ball joints stick with OEM, everything else (besides TC uniball conversion) is low quality trash.

 

Canada is very expensive, if you can wait a bit though I would save up and splurge for the OEM arms... if you need them. Age doesn't always mean the part should be replaced. OEM parts last a long time usually.

Otherwise I would avoid aftermarket arms. The bushings tend to fail in about 1/3 of the time (if you're lucky)of OEM. Ball joints for sure you should avoid. I bit myself in the ass the other day by trying to save money and getting TTX ball joints... they lasted less than 3 months before the boots failed. I'm sure the cold weather played a role but I can't control the weather so I ended up having to buy new ones and replace them again. I went OEM the second time. Buy once, cry once

 

Based on my 3rd gen 4Runner experience, I'd avoid ebay products sold under Detroit Axle brand and the likes; within weeks (!) had to replace torn rubber boots with OEM Toyota, and they rusted almost instantly. Balls joints seem to hold, but look unpleasant.

If on a budget, I'd recommend Febest parts.

 

Avoid Moog products. Unless you enjoy having to do the same work again within a year, then go for it.

 

The bushings are not hard to remove. Dont do the bottle jack method, you will deform them.
Mine were the oem bushings out of 1999 truck and they each came out easily after a few minutes of heat from a regular propane torch. The whole removal didn’t take more than 45 minutes.

 

This.

avoid SPC and Moog. go OEM everything

 

Avoid a uniball

 

I just did what you are doing I have a different two cents.. I used 555's on everything... Upper ball joints, lower ball joints, inner tie rods, outer tie rods, sway bar links etc. I used energy suspension bushings for steering rack and sway bar bushings (DO the steering rack, its amazing), you'll already be at 90% of the job when you replace your LCA with the bushings.

I went with the supreme line of Mevotech upper and lower control arms from Rock Auto. Make sure its the supreme line and not the base line. I was at 70,000 miles on my last set of Mevotech Lowers on my 4runner without an issue.

I'd also start soaking the LCA bump stops in PB blaster now, I broke 3 of the 4 of mine. Also be prepared to purchase new LCA cam tabs, I had to saw off all 4 of mine and my truck has no rust. I'd go OEM there, on my 4runner I used the SPC alignment cam tabs and they didn't hold alignments well, I learned my lesson and used oem tabs on this rebuild.