Pop & Lock Install - Which ****ing side?????????

I went drivers side to avoid running alongside the exhaust. Fasten the wire to the main factory harness that runs all the way to the back and come up in the cab just under the driver seat like shown in the videos on the passenger side. Only issue I had was the wiring in the instructions is reversed. I even called Pop & Lock and they just repeated what is in the instructions which is backwards. So I did as they recommended and it locked the tailgate when I unlocked, and unlocked the tailgate when I locked. So I reversed the wires and all is good. I can get a pic of driver side wiring if you like.

 

Thanks... going to tackle it this morning, if things go south, I'll shout!

 

Posi Tap (small wires)

 

Neither does the drivers side. You don’t come in through the bulkhead or need to access anything by the pedals or steering wheel if that’s what you are thinking. Drivers side is also where you come in for bed lights, and you tap into the exact same connector. so you can run all the wires at the same time if you’re doing those as well.

 

Driver's side, top left plug. Simple. Blue to Blue, Green to Black.

 

Only down side of using these wires is that they open on the first unlock rather than the second which will increase wear on the actuator.

 

Passenger side. I wanted the tailgate to only open with 2 fob presses, rather then every time I lock/unlock the drivers side. Way less wear and tear. You can fit the Pop & Lock wires into the existing harness ports. If you lightly solder the incoming wires ends to stiffen them, they fit into the slots with the OEM existing wires without any splices. Green to (OEM) green and blue to (OEM) red. Taco Twonz on YouTube have good install video.

 

So the cycle count of the Pop N Lock actuator with the driver lock is a good point that I had not thought of. Running up the driver's side does make a good case for avoiding the exhaust but I also do not want to wear out the actuator quicker. I may make the best of both worlds by taking 7' of wire and run it up under the dash to the passenger side and tap into that side. Thanks for pointing out.

 

The rear left passenger is also usable.

 

Does anyone know the wire color for the back driver-side door lock? This would be the ideal connection.

 

see post#23

 

I'm new here - but have been enjoying the info. Second taco with a FJ in between.

I went passenger as I did not want it open with the Drivers door. No splices/no cuts - I soldered it to the factory pin (Can undo/unsolder in the future).

To get the pins out - 1) Lift the white lock 2) slip a small jewelers screwdriver in the plug side of the connector and free the lock. Toyota wiring manual here : https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf

I did ADD one thing - I pulled a loop to the dash off the green wire for a switch to disable the "unlock" function. This will keep my rear locked if the switch is thrown - or operate with the passenger door lock if the switch is closed. This will keep folks at parking/valet or service a little more honest.

I have not decided where to install the switch - or the switch I will use. This is just a temp. Yes - I did run all wiring in loom. I used 16ga to match the pop & lock- but the factory stuff is considerably less.

 

Driver side... 2016

 

I went with the passenger side. Very easy install. After reading this thread I'll change my default unlock to just be for the driver's door. I currently have it set to unlock all 5.

 

You have access to BOTH circuits on the drivers side, (the rear drivers side door circuit is on the same plug, and that’s the passenger circuit). No need to run a wire to the passenger side, simply pick the wire from the circuit you want.

 

There are multiple ways you can grab it on the drivers side. You can get the 2nd disarm at the bcm or at the b-pillar door harness. I can't remember the wires off the top of my head but can look tomorrow at work. I used the wires in the b-pillar because they are closest to the grommet under the drivers seat where I ran the wires into the cab. Plus I already have a bunch of other wires ran to my drive side kick panel and didn't want to add more.

 

I did passenger side. Was pretty easy and been going strong for 3 years now.

 

I'm loosing my marbles trying to hunt down the IC connector and the wires/pins so that I can tap into driver side rear door. I see post #23, but that does not show the IC connector. Other posts have it as IC2...but called out at the top right hand corner in white body, or bottom in black body behind the kick panel (FWIW I'm working on a 2019 TRD Sport dbl cab). Wire colors are not matching IC2 call outs in other diagrams. What are the odds someone has a nice little pic showing the IC connector and the wires they tapped into?



This is presumably my IC2 connector shown below (from another post) - except the 9/10 (red/yellow) spots are empty on the plug in connector/harness side of mine. 11/12 spots seem to have constant power when I test them with a trouble light

 

IC2 is the trigger to lock & unlock. Not for tapping into fused power to actuate a solenoid.