35x10.50x17 Kenda Klever R/T Kr601 Thread *SKINNY 35s*

Is that a single cab with a 5.5-foot bed?

 

6.5’ bed, Tundra

 

Thanks!

 

I know this is old but I just stumbled on it. If you are in California, Big Brand Tire can order them for you and will price match Walmart and install with certs.

 

thanks
Went with a local performance tire shop that got them for a good price and didn’t cost much for install

it was weird. Other places said some weird shit. Like this is what, a $200-$250 tire? Then one place you’d ask “yeah $350 ea” this ain’t a Baja Boss…oh well

 

Just a quick heads up Big Brand had to cancel my order because they can no long get them

 

Does anyone know what the ideal setup is?

wondering if I went wrong anywhere.
-Method 17x8.5 et0 4.75”bs
-just added 1.25 SpiderTrax x4
-Kenda 35x10.5

was recommended add the spacers to allow for clearing rear shock relocate

and to stop tire smacking into frame which it was prior.

it’s poking out a good bit which looks exaggerated due to possibly regretful flare delete
Thinking if I trim the fenders more than I already have it’ll help look a little better

On the fence about getting and modifying bushwacker flares
Theres used OEM flares on FB marketplace but for insane prices and incomplete different color pieces.

17x9 with different ET could’ve been better but already have 17x8.5 and changing would cost more than spacers

if flares were being done I’d think bushwacker > OEM because
-probably wider
-can be made to secure strongly with good looking bolts

 

Which shock relocation did you do? I’ll probably end up doing archive garage trail series with 2.0 shocks so the tires clear without spacers.

 

didn’t know that about the trail series
Was under impression the bigger the better shock is regarding which model relocate to choose

don’t have the relocate yet but plan to in the future

Got 1.25” SpiderTrax as it’s what they had and cheaper than Bora.
Unfortunately any spacer discussion I find seems to not be function oriented but rather “I put these on my stock small tire truck for no reason here is how it looks”

just remember they advertise it as also helping put a stop to tire at lock hitting the frame which was one of my goals.

At least now If I relocate later hopefully the spacer means it will fit, and if I find there to be too much room can take it off and sell it.
As opposed to doing it the other way around with no spacer only to possibly find out the hard way there isn’t room.

there is some poke but it doesn’t look extreme. Looks like everyone else’s truck.
Probably going to look better when I trim the fender more (probably have to) so it’s not so close and apparent the width difference.
Or the potential to bolt on bushwackers later on that would be cheaper than paint matched fiberglass flares.

long travel could accomplish the same increase in width but isn’t cheap or happening any time soon unless I win the lottery. Same goes for front SAS, or beefed up (Dana?) axle in the rear that is wider than stock.

 

When you say you're tire is hitting the frame, is it hitting the cab mount? I had a cab mount relocation done and also flattened the pinch weld before putting on the Kendas. Other than that trimming of the plastic inner fenders was pretty minimal.

wheels:
FN Konig Countersteer Type X
17x8 -10 offset 4.1” backspace, 20.9lbs

 

Ideal setup is personal preference. For the least cutting, -6 offset.

You’re at almost -31 offset lol.

 

am new to backspace got google says lower number pokes out more so maybe that’s why and you found the sweet spot.

correct though no. Had CM rub then not anymore after CMR. But tire would still hit literally the frame at turn.

still need to hammer pinch weld. Surprise raining today may need to wait for sun. That’s probably the worst issue with it right now, exacerbated by the spacers but hopefully fixable with a hammer flatten.

Bora and SpiderTrax seem the most reputable and while Bora lists more thickness choices available they cost more.

I don’t know about cutting. I need to hammer the pinch weld but that’s not really cutting.

I just know before the spacers, tires would hit the frame. There’s paint rubbed off.

was recommend put spacers or different dimension wheels to address that and spacers seemed easier cheaper

 

I would rather rub frame than cab mount or any of the fender.

Nothing sharp on the frame and it is quiet, only thing it will do is rub off paint.

Unless it is long travel, almost every first gen Tacoma / third gen T4R on 35s rubs frame.

 

Good advice thank you. The frame rub seems to not rust because it keeps it freshly scrub abrading with rubber
And the spacers definitely exacerbated pinch weld rub that tries to slice the tire…that’s the only issue right now

going to hammer the pinch weld flat and swap in HD springs (bumper) ASAP then re evaluate I guess to see if that fixes the pinch weld contact or not
Which if so may need to take off the spacers in that case to choose slight frame rub at full lock over pinch weld cutting the tires

I’ve heard everyone on 35’s has some contact somewhere, like you said, so maybe it just comes with the territory

it looks meaner on spacers, potentially less likely to smack doors into walls. And wider footprint stability to reduce rollover risk.
But it could come with some cons:
-closer to pinch weld tire arc swing angle
-wider track not as narrow to fit tight areas
-potential increased wheel bearing wear
-larger footprint under the truck to hit rocks

 

Anyone know if Kenda 35x10.5 fits steelie?

looking to run steelie 17” as 5th non-rotate swingout spare
I think width 7.5”
hopefully Kenda 35x10.5 fits that

only 1.5” wider on both sides of the wheel

according to one site minimum width for 35x10.5 is 7” wide
So maybe 7.5” width is fine

don’t really see the point to get another Method 701 17x8.5
if 17x7.5 steelie would work and probably even look better. $50 vs $300+
(On swingout)

gonna have to figure out what hardware regarding bolts or studs to counter hold from behind the different nuts a steelie requires. Current swingout (weld on pending) has a circle mount plate with holes but no hardware.



swingout addition is vertical with holder arm that looks flimsy. Might have to change it to beefier square or rectangle tube

I don’t know if angled is better and if wheel specs are a factor to allow for angle…

saw this truck with angle from Nguyen Fab
looks good but the more I look at it the more angled seems to just worsen departure angle and gain clearance up top where it’s not needed
Well I mean it raises the bottom corner outside of the tire so maybe that increases departure angle

but at that point likely negligible
And any bumper swingout probably worsens departure versus a bed rack mount or bed tiregate mount.

 

17” 7.5 wide TRD offroad T4R wheel, I liked it better angled with my soft topper

and I’ve broken two swingouts so I vote reinforce it. Neither broke from dragging the spare on the ground despise doing it often, but I did get rear ended in the tacoma which could have hurt it.



Tacoma swingout broken


4runner swingout cracked up and twisted

 

Word must have got out how good these tires are. Bummer, I didn’t think wearing out my tires would total my truck

 

Money laundering at its finest lol

 

Anyone got a lead on any Independence day deals for these? Anything that beats the 45k above!? lol