1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Dyno Tacos, sounds like it should be a taco truck next to the Alien Jerky place

 

It's cheap as a group, I'm just going to use their knockears to see if it's safe to put back in the 3° I took out initially. I ran it like that for a bit and nothing was amiss but I had a gut feeling I should take it out while I was dialing everything else in an just never put those 3° back in. Who knows there could be even more but that would bring me to 16-17° at the top end of 11psi. I have no desire to run this thing at the bleeding edge but I'll do some timing correction under the curve and steady state just since I've got 1.5hrs on the rollers. I'm most curious just to see what it makes, you drive it enough and you lose feel for how it's changed from where you started. I'm not at all unhappy with how much power it makes or my economy as is. I don't think I'll make any large changes.

 

I'm still getting like 13mpg. I feel I should be able to tune the sub-boost to crank that up.
Optimization via dyno or knock sensors could probably carry out into med boost but not by much. I'm at like 5 deg at 12psi, 2.5krpm. Seems very low, but that's what got rid of the pinging. Not sure if there's something hardware wise I could upgrade to improve, but my 4 bangers are not nearly that retarded (lol)

 

Every engine is different for sure. I would generally think that 5VZs should probably be in the same range (+/-5°) but I wouldn't go comparing to another engine family entirely because there could be many differing factors (quench space and chamber shape, compression, temp shedding, back pressure, DI, etc).

All of the 5VZs that I've tuned on have been in the same range as mine ignition capability wise. Do you think you could have a cam timing or back pressure issue, those could certainly cause pinging to occur early. Did you alter the angle of injection from the initial map I gave a year ago? Do you have a fast acting IAT close to the throttle body now? Is it possible you have/had an ignition correction applied that is/was increasing a lot from your base table? Those are things I might have investigate a little bit. Certainly applying some extra ignition timing all around will increase your economy and just general power. Heck when it's super cold out and my intake Air temps and coolant temps are really low I toss in another 5-7° with the correction tables below boost range. On a cold start driving to work I don't even need to put my foot on the gas, I can row 1 thru 3rd just on cold start idle with the high timing corrections haha.

 

then there's me over here pushing 3psi and feeling cool about it.

I would like to get things refined in the near future especially with summer temperatures and fuel prices coming up

I need to start compiling a shopping list.
1.) Nexus R3

 

When I installed my Haltech, because I had to keep the factory ecu in place to the run the transmission, there wasn't enough room to keep the air duct that runs over to the passenger vent in place. When I removed this duct I noticed a big drop in HVAC performance. I ended up 3D printing a cap for where the duct normally connects and got back my HVAC performance.

 

Good idea! I melted and squished the one in the only auto truck I've installed in to give it enough room to pass

 

Oh nice, I didn’t even consider doing that. I thought about printing a whole new narrower duct with clearance around the wiring harness area but just decided to cap it instead.

 

Anyone interested in a Makosport Dash Kit for the Haltech UC-10? I ordered one thinking I would wait for the UC-10, but I ordered an IC-7 last week so I no longer need a UC-10 mount.
Paid $300 shipped. I’ll sell it for $200 shipped to my fellow 1st gen Haltech user. Just arrived in the mail this afternoon.

 

If you still have it in a month I'll probably hit you up for it

 

uC-10 definitely seems like a better screen for the main guages, sure does get expensive fast.

 

I wasn't displeased with the available space and size of the IC-7 though

 

Yes, I they do add up fast. I’ll be getting a UC-10 for the FZJ, so I thought I’d save some money with an IC-7 on the Tacoma.

 

I was going to ask what the reasons for the change were but you beat me to it.

 

@Speedytech7 did you ever start putting kits together for injectors? I remember seeing somethings about it like 50 pages ago

 

I've determined what "fits" but I ran into a dead end physically blocking the air assist ports in the lower manifold as the radium cup adapters don't fit the 5VZ like they do the JZ engines even though the injectors themselves are interchangeable. I determined it would be a savings of about $120 and frankly that's the cost of a single injector. Just wasn't feasible for me to bother assembling kits of injectors that didn't really solve the issue I was hoping to.

You could do it yourself, if you were deadset on having Bosch or Deka injectors but the savings just isn't there.

 

Honest I don't know enough about injectors to have a preference

Regardless I would like to have a set on hand, it's been on the maintenance list since I got the truck so I'd like to buy once and cry several times by doing bigger injectors and the Nexus R3

One of the pieces to the puzzle I'd like to work out is the wire harness. I see lots of boomslang harnesses but wasn't sure how that works for the guys with automatics.

 

I don't believe an off the shelf harness exists for engine/trans control yet.