Turbo BS Thread

Anybody need a 3RZ turbo kit this thing's a deal

 

Aw man that's tempting

 

Well, oil pan is off and everything looks fine... But it still won't turn all the way over, I can wiggle each of the rod caps and I don't see anything that looks like catastrophic failure anywhere. Is there something specific that should pop out at me? On an unrelated note, I have been window shopping 1kzte...

 

Have you checked under the valve covers to see if there is a valve in the stuck open position?

Either it either that, or the chain is binding.

 

No, I did look at the chain through the oil filler neck and nothing I could see looked off but obviously, it's not making a full rotation so the problem could remain hidden. I guess I'll pull the valve cover next, I'm eventually going to have to anyway if I have to pull Pistons, I was just trying to take apart as little as possible...

 

Have you tried rotating it counter clockwise? Plugs are out?

 

Yeah plugs are out, yes I can go clockwise and counter clockwise to essentially the same spot, but it will not pass, let's say cylinder 3 will go from at or near tdc to at or near tdc, but will not go past that point wgile turning either direction.

 

I fear the worst could have happened.

 

The dang starter is just too stout... I understand if the engine is running and you slam it full of water, but I can't believe just turning it over with the starter could cause that much damage. What is "the worst" btw. I mean I would have thought the worst would be a rod wound up outside of the block lol

 

Could be a bent rod. Have you looked up in there?

 

Yeah, everything looks good from the oil pan looking up

 

My experience with my non-Toyota engine failures were valves contacting pistons. If you have the plugs out and there is water sucked into the jugs then it should blow out and be fine. The fact you can make almost a full stroke either direction is indicating a valve issue. My last incident dropped a valve and broke it in three pieces. 90% sure it was my fault.

Have a peek down at the piston tops and see what they look like.

 

Most likely a valve, as he stated. Probably not the case, but In a few rare instances, I have seen valve seats fall. That one is a tad trickier.

 

Got everything back together and it fired right up! Took it for a short drive and it feels like I have a little more low end power back. If I remember right every gear but first was about useless below 2000 rpm. Now 1600 seems fine.

However I've got a number of codes that I don't think I had prior to pulling things apart and was curious if any could be related to one another. Both o2 heater circuits (p0036, p0135), iac code (p0511) and my coolant sensor for the dash guage is pinned. My upstream sensor checks out to the resistance the fsm requires. Can't find the spec for the coolant sensor and haven't pulled the IACV yet to check it out. Seems odd that none of these were problems before. I'll have to double check the grounds tomorrow, maybe the paint layer is effecting things.

Engine runs in open loop 100% of the time which maybe isn't a bad thing.

 

@Reh5108 do these sensors tie back to a central fuse anywhere together?

 

Think I found it. Forgot to tighten the ground next to the temp sensor. Temp guage isn't pegging right away and I was seeing afrs fluctuate for the few minutes I had it running. Going to drive a bit more later today. Hope it's all sorted, still have lots to do before a Moab trip in May.

 

Hey all, I have a MAPECU question. I'm SC'd not turbo'd, don't hold it against me haha

I'm using an external MAP sensor (I wanted to use the built in sensor for barometric readings and compensations) and for some reason, even though I've selected the GM 2 BAR sensor, and it shows in the input/output tab MAP sensor selected, I've noticed 2 things:
1. the pressure is constantly 12.7 psi in MapCal. It never changes, and I tried 2 different ports on the engine. Maybe I switched the +/-? Should the sensor measure atmospheric pressure and then calibrate itself to 0 so that it shows vacuum at idle and + under boost, like my AEM boost gauge does? The wiring is kind of confusing based on the picture from the manual....I interpreted the "cable view" as if you were holding the cable/connector and looking at it from the front (end you would insert into the female terminal on the MAPECU) so, as you plug it in, +5v would be on the right, but looking at it from "cable view" its on the left
2. it won't let me select under compensation tabs for barometric pressure, its shaded out and i can't click it.

Any ideas?

 

Well the + and gnd were reversed. Got the multimeter out and tested. Flipped the wires and now the pressure reads like my boost gauge. Should've done that from the start. Oh well

 

issues still persist - even with the external MAP sensor reading appropriately, I still don't have ability to click the checkbox for barometric compensation. not sure why.

Had my 1st successful start after a couple failed attempts, running MAF intercept with all tables zeroed, wired in my AEM wideband AFR and had successful matched readings between the analog gauge and the MapCal software.

Now, I took it for my 1st attempted test drive thinking I'd get a good log and see what the truck's been doing, but all of a sudden my AFR's went WAAAAY rich! Without the mapecu3 in the equation, I'm right at 14.7 at idle and closed loop driving, and when it kicks into open loop I'll drop to like 13.5 and hit 12 - 12.5 at about 5 psi max throttle.

All of a sudden I'm at like 10 at idle, and mild 20 mph driving in my neighborhood, got out on the main road and stepped on it and i saw like 8.5-9! I don't get it. Everything is zeroed, so I shouldn't see any changes from normal stock driving right?

 

Do you have the ability to check your short and long term fuel trims? Stock ECU is probably unhappy with signals it’s seeing from MAPECU and its adding lots of fuel