Think You Don't NEED to re-gear?

So I see a lot of people saying they do not need to re-gear even though they have 33's up to 35's. Maybe they don't but do they have sliders, bumpers, winch, skids, recovery gear, etc. All this stuff is added weight and stress on the gears. Not to mention the already up sized tires. So yes you may not need to re-gear with bigger tires but once you get all the stuff to actually USE the bigger tires you will need to re-gear IMO.

Any thoughts?

This is a bit pre-mature as I have not re-geared yet but have my nice new Nitro 4.56 sitting on my floor.

For those of you who haven't re-geared and are fine thats great I just want to hear what people have to say about the topic, as I am not trying to flame you all.


*SIDE NOTE*
Looked online everywhere for hours. Has anybody come across a good "How To" re-gear an e-locker?

 

Thats just it. There is no 100% yes or no answer. My view is if you a getting the bigger tires and seldom go offroad, of course you dont need to. If you are going to 4 wheel , my opinion is yes you do. My reasoning is with a manual transmission, go up a steep hill and stop at some point. The better gearing will help keep you from; 1) stalling 2) lets you roll slower...control 3) easier on the clutch. Im sure theres afew more reasons too.
All that and then add the extra 200lb+ in gear you mentioned. 4wheelin isnt cheap. It only gets spendier if you try to go cheap imo.

 

is this a whole thread to state your opinion on other people's way of doing things? odd

 

to keep the power and fuel economy of your rig the same as stock you should regear (if you care)

3:73 (stock)
33's = 4:10/4:11
35's = 4::56

 

Of course not.

Ive seen others peoples way of doin things some are good some are bad. Ive seen too many shortcuts and advice not fully thought out, followed by exasperation.
For example when I was 22 or so. I was told I didnt need a locker, the tires have all the traction. Thats poor advice in the snow with one tire in the air off of the beaten path. Glad i had a tow strap.

So yea, you can lift a truck 4" , and you dont have to do an alignment job, or head light aim, or, you can get a winch , and you dont have to get another battery or 1 bigger. Feel free to "dont have to". You dont have to do maintainance either if thats your way. Its your truck treat it as you see fit .

 

subd

 

Dang you GSK9 , its like you knew what im up to .

Ive been looking at around $4000 to do what I want to my truck . My plan is to get a 4 leaf for my rear buying it form someone, then a new rear bumper, rebalanced out with the good ol 5100 shocks. Then move on to a 4.56 ring change/rear locker install. No actual lift, just whatever resulted from the new leaf springs. I want DT headers along the way too.

BTW smiley , 3.73 , is that v-6/auto? I thought all the 4x4 were 4.11 or is that just manual transmissions?

 

Even for street use I say you should if you want to keep the performance.

I run 33 x 12.50s and I can definitely tell they are there. Not so much WOT, the truck has more than enough power to get them moving right along, but its the part throttle lugging that annoys me the most.

since the RPMs are lower at a given speed, light throttles gives little response where it was sufficient with stock tires.

If you have a boost/Vac gauge, you can really see it. Cruising on the interstate stock, it would pull about 20 in/hg vacuum, now it sits right at 10 to keep the same speed. and you can correlate your MPG to Vac as well.

Offroad is a different story all together. I want to re-gear at some point, but I am not set that this is the tire size I want to run ( I may go to 35s) so ill give it some time

Justin

 

autos 3.73 and 4.11 on manuals, well atleast its this way for V-6

 

^^ what he said auto.

 

I've got 4.88's with my 33's . But seriously, the gears do make a difference offroad. Onroad, it is noticable but not needed.

 

4 popper? ^^

 

Yeah, the 4.88's,33's, and 4 cylinder makes a world of difference. I'm interested to see how they do with 35's.

 

I've got 33s and the truck is heavy. I need to regear but it's too much money. I won't re-gear until I go 35s.

 

What's the parts and labor for a 4.56 gear install running you guys? I know this is not a DIY install as I ha my ram re geared and it was an experience to say the least.

 

Parts and labor is about $700 per axle.

4.88s with 33s on a 4cyl here. I love it. Before the gears, there were times I was burning up the clutch offroad and on road going up steep hills from a stop.

 

just got my truck re-geared from stock to 4.11 and it was the single best improvement i've made to the truck. I run 285's with a 3" lift on a 4 cyl reg cab and the transformation after re-gearing was incredible. I recovered all the power i lost. I bet the majority of guys have V-6's but if you're looking to get that scrappy tacoma feeling back then save up and do it, great investment.

 

No experience in a Tacoma, but I had an 88 Jeep Cherokee with 33s (stock size was about 28" tall) and 4.56 gearing (3.55 stock). At the same time I had my daily driver 99 Cherokee, with stock gearing and running 30" AT tires. The 88 with 33" BFG M/T tires actually had better acceleration, and would still get about 17-18MPG highway (drover from PA to TX), where my 99 was only getting about 18.5-19 highway.

Proper gearing made a huge difference in all aspects of driving, not just offroad, or at slow speeds. The locker sucked though...

 

ok lets take 33s (285s) and 35s (315s) and compare them. Besides the extra surface area the 35s have over 33s, according to tire rack, for example km2s there is only a 4 pound difference. Where is the added stress coming from. Im not trying to argue the 35s will not have much difference over 33s but im wondering why its such a big deal.

 

You might want to check out Zuk's website. I don't think he does regearing anymore, but his site has many, many documented (with pics) regearings of toyota third members including a few elockers.