Long Travel BS Thread

Just ordered a complete tundra booster and MC, new lines, adapters, everything. We'll see where that gets me. Hopefully further than I was before. Still don’t have a trans though.

 

Roger.

 

what was the time quote on the 4l80?

 

Modern brake systems see upwards of 3,000psi under hard braking. Not sure why they would tell you no more than 1200. I’ve always been taught that’s the absolute minimum.

 

Original quote was 6-8 weeks, then they called me 3 days later and told me 4 weeks, which means next week it should be done supposedly

 

Here is where my cheap, non-baller mind is taking me for better braking since I can't drop $2k on brakes. Referencing the thread below replace the brake master and booster with the Tundra unit. Remove the abs module/ecu and replace with two T's and a proportioning valve for the rear. Replace the front brake pads with 4Runner pads (I may actually have 4R pads anyway) and next time I need rotors install 4R rotors if they clear 16" wheels.

Am I on track here?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/my-2006-tacoma-brake-upgrade-edited.652471/

 

I've seen it on a few trucks now, how are people fitting 16" shocks on just a relocation like archive or something? Do they just sacrifice all up travel for more droop?

 

To add to the brake talks… I’ve got wilwood front 6 piston brakes. And the wilwood rear brakes that JDfab puts on their ford 9 axle. I put in a tundra booster along with the sequoia master. Eliminated the abs and cobbled it all together with a proportioning valve from wilwood in the original ABS module location. It’s not pretty but it works. I also separated the abs module in half to keep the ABS computer since I needed it to be able to keep my speedometer working. The braking is way better than stock with good pedal feel.

 

Uniballs are pretty stiff when new. I've put about 4k miles on a +2 TC kit recently, initially steering was really stiff, and it took effort to keep from overshooting small steering corrections early on, especially at freeway speed, but it has gradually improved over the past 500 miles. Not to say that your alignment doesn't have something to do with it, but you also may just need to wear the components in a little bit.

 

you're not running a Toyota TC, correct? To add to the above about the speedo working I added a Toyota speed sensor to the TC and wired straight to the speedometer. No wheel sensors needed, speedo works great.

 

I believe most of those relocation kits use a 14" or 12" shock. Not 16". I don't think you're fitting 16" without cutting the bed.

 

I went 12" after talking to Archive, because 14" will limit your uptravel with most leafpacks. For 16", I think you need to use a different mounting solution and have to cut into your wheel wells.

 

That's what I thought too but now I've seen it and I can't figure out how it's possible. I'll track down the rig I saw

 

It’s possible if you cut into the bed or limit travel. Or hang the shock mounts stupid low. Either way, 14” is all you need. SOA packs aren’t going to use all of a 16” regardless

 

If I wasn’t about to buy a Holley dash I’d do this

 

I’m 2wd

 

4Runners 2010 and up 5th gens are larger rotors and will not clear 16" rims in the OEM configuration. The 2003 - 2009 4th gens had a Sport version that also had the larger rotors w 17" rims. I believe all the rest of the 4th gens had 16" rims.

 

you don’t have abs right ? because without the abs getting individual wheel speed sensor info it can’t work properly ? will that work on an auto trans too ?

 

My ABS sensors crapped out one at a time, usually the wires breaking off from stuff. I never ran with abs anyway as it's a sure way to crash off road. But once the 3rd abs stopped working the speedo also stopped working. I found the this work around with the speed sensor on the TC case. My truck is a prerunner auto converted to 4x4 with an FJ trans and TC.

 

Figure this might get more traction in here.
3rd gen Tacoma. Wicked creations long travel +3.5 with their axles. Locked offroad coilovers.

I have to jack up the lower control arm a little to get the spindle bolted in. From their pictures and how their model is the limit strap is placed flush with the top of the frame on the bulge just behind the factory bump stop mount. At full drop not strapped the cv is at an extreme angle and binding. I called wicked creations and they said everything should be good but they don’t know why the axle is binding. They passed the phone to an installer and he said to get the strap in I have to lower the truck off the lift and then bolt it in.

I know I didn’t have to do that with jd or the tc kits I’ve installed. Something seems off and they were no help