Tacos in St. Louis area

You drive a hard bargain but I guess ill trade 2 mcchickens for a bunch of new lights

 

Gotta show up. Besides, you never know what will or won't be raffled off.

Also, big open box discounts at the @Diode Dynamics open house event April 13

 

Don’t forget about behind you

 

SS5s for you then. And they've got nifty link bars to make them all work.

 

Can anyone suggest a good shop around Columbia that has experience with lifted/modified vehicles or just aftermarket wheels? I installed my lift in January and had a local shop mount my tires and do the alignment but it still isn't right... I get a slight steering wheel shake between 40-55mph. Shop re-balanced twice and insists everything is "in spec". I'm thinking maybe a shop that works on more modified stuff might be my best bet.

 

Man that's tough being that far out without highway driveability.

Unfortunately, CoMo is small enough that.... It might not have a dedicated shop for that.

What suspensions, lift, and tires are you running?

Are they shooting for factory alignment specs?

 

I can drive it to STL it's just tough to find the time, we're like 50% staffed right now so my work area has grown into IOWA and KS.

Running Dobinson's 2":


Wheels/tires: SCS blaze10 17x8.5 w/ LT285/70R17 Cooper Discoverer AT3XLT

Yeah, they wouldn't do anything but factory specs. I'm still convinced the shake is in the wheels/tires and not the alignment, but the truck is really twitchy on the highway so another look at alignment couldn't hurt I guess.

 

Highway shade could be tire balance over a thousand other things. That alignment isn't terrible but you definitely want your caster more like three or four degrees. Not close to two which is factory. Any shop that says they can only do factory. Specs is full of clowns and you should never go back to them. There's no reason they can't adjust it for any spec you want. The only thing they did right was give you a bar graph print out instead of the silly lines and straight numbers like a lot of shops do to intentionally confuse customers.

 

I got the same from my local Firestone and they almost refused to do it because I had aftermarket UCA's. The "manager" said it is due to liability for tire wear and argued with me about what caster actually was. They ended up getting 2.4 and 2.6 on caster and it drives fine, a little twitchier at speed than I would like but not bad. I need to find a better alternative, would like it at or close to 3 degrees.

 

Firestone is absolute joke of what it once was. Sad to say.

 

Front diff is just loving life

 

Thatll happen when you only drive with one tie rod

 

Nah I keep a few spares so I don’t get caught crosseyed. Haven’t had one bend after I redesigned tie rods and I bent a few.

I will say the clamshell isn’t bad to work on at all, figured I would have to press bearings or something to get the bonded seal but just open and knock off the ring gear then split the carrier. Seal housing has passenger side race inside it so I had to beat it out but a big dead blow and it all went back in well.

Think I just screwed myself driving it home after breaking a jack shaft because I was too pissed to swap it.

Hopefully I can solve those problems soon…

 

Check your tie rod ends and wheel bearing for play. Then check your ball joints. All those can contribute to steering shake. I'm chasing a slight one myself.

 

I've only got 14k on this truck, If I have play in any of those already, I'm trading this POS in tomorrow haha. In all seriousness, this showed up immediately after I installed the lift and new tires.

 

you 4wd?

 

yep

 

bet it is the needle bearing.

drive at 45-55 ish when you have the vibrations and shift in 4wd to see if they stop. if so swap the ECGS bushing for the needle bearing in the diff and be done with it

 

I'll give that a shot.