TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I'm about to be doing a lot better with a major cooling overhaul haha

 

Well the cooling works haha, couldn't get above 140 on the hour drive home lol I can't believe how effective a $60 little cooler is. Im sure the mishimoto radiator helped too, the size on that thing is huge

 

So I think that instead of keeping my newly bought pulleys from superchargersonline as spares, I'm going to install everything just for peace of mind. I don't believe any of the original Magnuson pulley bearings that I'm running in the truck now are bad since I haven't heard any noise coming from them, but I suppose I'm better safe then sorry.

I'd really like to take the old ones apart and inspect/regrease them, but I've never done this before and not sure how to take them apart, if this is possible, or if I’ll need a press to get them out of the pulleys first?

 

Looks legit!

 

If your originals are fine I'd just leave them be. The stock NSK bearings are very good, I don't think they are a standard 6303 bearing but instead some type of alternator bearing.

I took the seals off of two to look inside and the cage is protecting one side where you pretty much can't do much in terms of cleaning out the old grease and re-greasing it, or seeing much. The 2nd one I was able to see the ball bearings and you could probably spend a good amount of time cleaning as much of the old grease out and putting more grease in but I don't know how good that is going to work. Just depends what side they pressed into the pulley on if you would be able to do much or if you have to completely press the bearing out.

As far as I know the only way to get the bearings out is to press on the inner race which is a no go if you plan on using the bearing again.

 

Thanks for the info. I might take the belt off and turn the bearings by hand and see how they feel. I’ve only got about 10 thousand miles on everything now, but I built it in 2017 so I’m just slightly concerned due to the timeframe.
I would think the SOL bearings would be a significant upgrade, but I could be completely wrong since I have little experience regarding bearing longevity other than replacing pulleys over the years after they started making noise.

 

That's impressive.

 

Thanks man , I tried to keep everything in line with the fan. Obviously being on cruise control at 75 doesn't put too much heat with no shifting, but I'm sure it won't get near as warm as it was when I'm off-roading and stepping on it.

 

Question about carrier bearings. I know this is a bit off topic in this thread, but there’s some pretty smart guys here who might know. What in your experience is the best driveshaft carrier bearing?

I just had a Timkin with less than 10 thou miles on it tear the entire rubber around the bearing apart. I’m on the fence with getting either a Dana (Spicer) or Schaeffler. It doesn’t really matter what brand I get, I just want the best since it’s such a pita to fix on my truck (and I’m talking about my frame-off restored 2001 4.3 S-10).
I know I’m way off course here bringing this up on this forum, but respect for you guys who know a lot more about this stuff than I do.
Thanks for any help

 

I have the OEM Toyota one, and if your going through the rubber that fast, that sounds like you need to fix an underlying issue of your drive line angle being offset?

 

Speaking of only the part, not a potential cause of the issue, I run Dana/Spicer carrier bearings, and have never had an issue with the bearing.

I change at 100K miles, when I replace the u-joints.

Yes, they are probably not worn out at that point, but I'd rather change the part on my schedule in my garage, rather than at midnight on the side of the road in a rainstorm (or mud hole) on it's schedule.

 

Thanks , I spoke to a guy at a driveline shop today and he mentioned two things, that he wasn’t surprised that a Timkin carrier bearing failed that soon, and that I may have installed the base of the bearing in half cocked. He said a 1/4 inch off could do that. I honestly can’t remember if there’s any adjustable play in the two bolts that hold it down.
Regarding driveline angle, I’ve got 3 inch drop blocks over the leaves, but iirc they have a slight angle cast into them to alleviate potential issues like that.

 

Cool good job on getting it worked out quic and not ignoring the problem. I figured something was off as that's highly unusual

 

Well, if it was off a bit, I’m thinking I may have tightened the carrier bolts before the universal was bolted up at the differential the last time I did it.

This time I think I’ll drive up on ramps, then jack up the rear by the differential and set it level with jack stands under the axle. This way I’ll know there’s a level load on all four before I put it back together. I’ll slip the yoke into the trans and bolt up the universal at the diff before I tighten down the carrier bolts. That seems to me a logical way of trying to get it all lined up right.
Oh, and just my luck, the Dana carrier bearing is on back order until May

 

Just about less than a hair .394 vs ~.3935

 

@Billy182 I've been running an IEDLS poly carrier bearing for years. It has taken way more abuse than I expected. Its been years, but IIRC it was the same part number for a ranger.

I also have a MitchMade, rebuildable, bearing style CB ready to go in.. picked it up because its a beautiful chunk of machined art. Just havent had the chance, or urgent reason to slap it in.

 

Thanks for posting
I went to their website, and they look pretty tough. I’ll do a little research and call them. Unfortunately I’ve already ordered and paid for the Dana from the driveline shop that’s going to do the install and re-balance my two piece driveshaft just in case it threw a weight.

 

So after I replaced the sensor, my aem wideband gauge still won't connect, so they are sending me a replacement but want me to film myself literally destroying it and then they will send me a replacement lol. Has anyone else done this? Kinda weird lmao

 

Only with an Igloo portable ice maker, they didn’t want to fix it, so I got a refund after I sent them a photo of the power cord cut.
I eventually found that water was splashing over their poorly designed tank and shorted a micro switch. $4 later for a new switch and a home made shield to stop the water from splashing over the tank and I was back in business. 3 years later, 24/7, and it’s still running!
Lol, I’m guessing your gauge is a hell of a lot harder to diagnose, unless you’re especially good with IC boards

 

I had to destroy a hard tonnau cover, and send pictures; to get a refund from a poor fitment issue. This after I told them I would be happy with a partial cash refund ($200 I think) plus sending me a new gasket set, but they declined with reason of not wanting to risk damage to their reputation? I did not quite relate, but they did provide a full refund, including shipping. Must say, it was painful to consider the waste.