Time to cut losses?

OP needs a cold stiff one

 

Is it done yet?

 

Want to talk about maintenance, buy a first through third gen Ram with a Cummins. The truck will fall apart long before the engine and not just because you’ll get 500k+ out of the engine- you’re still buying a Dodge.

The fact most people think it’s unreasonable that a vehicle with 100k-300k+ needs work done shows how spoiled we all can get driving a Toyota.

It’s got moving parts, it’s filled with specific lubricants, there’s nothing you can do about it, eventually climate, pressure and time have the effect of causing things to deteriorate.

If you enjoy driving the vehicle, most can tell you, you’ll regret getting rid of it. I wish like hell I could have the 79 Celica or 78 Corolla wagon back I had when I was in my teens and early twenties, just for the fact they were cool cars I enjoyed owning and now are difficult to attain and worth some coin in decent condition.

The same would be true if I dumped my first gen so it’s not going anywhere

 

Maybe go to the junkyardor pull apart if ur cheap.. call ahead and ask what they have....dont get hung up on all the work in ur head. Make a parts list an hit up pull apart. U cud even score a rack if ur lucky any 4runner prerunner taco will work 6 lug.. the parts are so cheap even if u get a bad one its no big deal take one in for rebuild somewhere.. but u can usually tell by lookn for leaks an the shaft rotate it giggle it before u pull it.. the rack is where id buy a new oem one if u cud afford it damn sure not a driveshaft... sure its not your center bearing?
hell if u can keep fluid in tha rack drag it out more hell unhook the belt an drive without pwr str a while then youll really wanna buy one and install it lol.. Might wanna make sure ur 4 lower balljoint bolts are tight.. my buddys front wheel fell off at the drivethru cost him a steering rack, balljoints, and a cv axle plus fixing the steering knuckle.. 2 bolts were gone 2 broke off. Spacer lifts will also kill these same parts quickly...

 

I went to the driveshaft shop this morning and they quoted me around $800 to build me a new driveshaft - this would be made with U.S. made parts, presumably higher quality than whatever Cardone or Dorman uses. Adam’s out of Las Vegas might be able to get me something similar for slightly cheaper and with a lifetime warranty, but it would be nice to support a local business.

I stopped by a local off road fab shop on my way home, and the guy actually said my rear pinion seal looked to be the worst leak on my truck. I actually didn’t realize how much gear oil it was slinging around everywhere.

Apparently the third member has to be dropped to properly do this job, and at that point you might as well install new bearings, since they’re original AFAIK. He quoted $1400 for the job; does this sound reasonable?

At that point I might as well install an Eaton locker while it’s apart.. Setting bearing pre-load is definitely NOT a DIY job, so if I’m having a shop do anything, it’d be this.

Then again, I haven’t heard of the 8.4s deflecting much, so maybe it’d be going overboard a little?

 

How did you get the truck there?

Personally, I would go with what I outlined for the DS repair but whatever works for you. Your coin.

For the rear, seriously? $1400? Just order a seal, free rental puller at local auto parts store or grab a cheap one on Amazon and just do it. It won't take long and no you don't need to "drop it". Attached is not for your year but if you're serious and want to give it a go I'll get you the actual doc for your year. WHY not save a ton of money? Again, your coin bro - your call. No need to ask for opinions.

EDIT: You did mark your flanges and DS before dropping it, right?

 

I drive it in 4h, so FWD. It was a little clunky and wonky, but it made it down the road ok.

To your second point - the guy told me just drilling out the bolt and pressing in a new seal wasn’t the “right” way to do that job - in his opinion, the third member had to be dropped and new bearings installed.

 

LMAO!

This


(OP... Even if you spend more than the truck is worth. It's cheaper than a new vehicle )

 

Go look over the attached repair instructions from the factory to see how that front seal is replaced (yes, that is where it would be leaking). Don't see anything about the pumpkin being removed. You don't drill out a bolt. The flange nut is broken loose and replaced with a new one. I guess you could reuse it to save a few cents more but... ouch.

Of course he wants to "replace your bearings". More labor, more time, more money for him.

 

I suppose he may have just been trying to upsell. It's not something I'd heard of before.

 

Ha, definitely did that with the 4Runner

Then again, we actually wrenched and wheeled our rigs

 

Since money is the primary issue here I am confused how we got to a full diff rebuild and e locker..

 

The shop actually said you need to drop the third member to replace the pinion seal? And, that you have to set bearing pre-load?

Lmfao!

You need to call the cops and charge him with attempted rape.

 

That's a 14 dollar seal, and 5 dollar nut, and about an hour worth of work.

No dropping the third
No setting pre-load

Lmfao, again... ... he said "the right way"

 

https://youtu.be/IYjUhq0YNE0

 

Now you get it!

 

Did you not read what I quoted above? Here's a screenshot. This is basically what the guy was telling me this morning, but I wanted to make sure he wasn't just trying to upsell me. Anyway, based on the recent responses I think I'll just stop updating the thread.