Aluminum oil filter housing downsides?

Does his housing have a little hood scoop or something?

Where can I buy one?

 

Take issue with it then. You don't need my permission

 

My main issue is @Speedfreak got it chromed

 

Well I read most of the comments. I guess my take is if you think the skid plate and housing are an issue you should see the filter on a 16 diesel Ram, which is my daily driver, the Taco is for the tax write off and general run about truck. Lots nicer than that ol pig of a dually. Oh, and the ram also requires double fuel filters at the same time.

Back to the Taco. Dealer gave a free change, I don't put many miles on but at 15K I figure time for another. Skid plate no prob, off in a jiffy, drained oil, used that little filter drain doo hicky which is kind of cool, all in all a easy peasy change up until.... the housing. Put on a foot long piece of pipe I had within reach, no go. crawled over and got a 2' long pipe, yarded on that sucker, broke the forged aluminum wrench cup thingy, photo some other day if I ever figured out how to upload.


Autozone. Steel cup, 1/2 inch drive. Yarded, no go, braced my feet against the frame and it came loose. I'm 240lbs and have been getting exercise yarding on things for 66 years, never seen an oil filter come off like that. O rings on right place, thread the housing, hand tighten, tighten 1/8 more with the wrench. When I take the cup off a tooth falls off, one of those teeth for gripping or whatever. I look where it came off, looks to be tiny hole, off with the housing, it is a hole.

Waiting on aluminum from Amazon. Might should have gotten composite, probably fine

 

Sounds like they applied at least 30 ugga-duggas of torque to your housing at the dealer.

 

This is the official tool for tightening composite filter housings according to Toyota standardized dealership practices.

 

Changed to the alloy housing today.
I can say this, as compared to the polymer housing, this aluminum one threads on very smooth. I did lube the o-rings like normal and I added a bit to the threads.

 

I’ve done 6 oil changes with mine and it’s perfect. I can think of only one reason why Toyota didn’t use these from the factory and given that their Lexus vehicles uses them I’m pretty sure that might be the reason why.

 

Several Lexus vehicles use plastic too: Example ES350:

 

Just more hoses, fittings, etc to leak.

And it cracked.

 

An overblown issue. There will be enough oil left on the housing threads

Aluminum on the Lexus, well that's a no brainer.

 

After reading this entire thread, I've come to the conclusion that I still don't know if I should upgrade my housing to aluminum. After dealership raised their oil changes from 75Usd to 125usd I've decided to start doing it myself.

 

Ugga Dugga mechanics will ALWAYS find a way to over tighten or cross thread something.

 

I changed to aluminum. No chance you can over tighten it. Someone said something about it cracking easier if it get hit by something. I guess that's true but, that would have to be one helluva precise strike given the position of the housing and since it would have to be an upward strike, like coming down on a 3" wide, 3 ft tall stump, through the skid plate, I'm pretty sure the plastic housing would break too. I've got the Motivx tool and the oil filter housing drain. I also have a SS drain with an adapter mainly because I have the TRD skid plate, but all that with the screw on funnel makes my oil changes practically mess free and super simple.

Man, $125 oil change??? WTF With the more expensive Molygen oil I use and the OEM filter kit, I spend $55 tops

 

I've heard nothing but good things on that motivx tool for the housing. So I'm definitely buying that along with the drain filter hose. Not familiar with the SS drain. I don't get the aluminum housing metal on metal will create wear, isn't a gasoline power engine full of metal parts rubbing against eachother for thousands of miles. Yes it was insane I called several dealerships with in my area and they were all same ballpark in price range. The one in my city was actually the best deal because they did tire rotation along with the oilchange the other charged and extra 25usd. Maybe because I'm in the wonderful perfect state of California?

 

Anybody know the correct part number for the composite and aluminum filter housings I'm finding several different numbers on my Google searches

 

This is the oil drain valve. I like it because it's low profile. It also has a cap in case the check valve fails for some reason.

$50 ValvoMax Oil Drain Valve - Quick Twist Oil Drain Plug for DIY Oil Changes At Home in 10 Minutes - No Tools, No Mess, No Cleanup - M14-1.50 Thread Size - Made in USA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z9GQCB?ie=UTF8&th=1

Metal on metal wear huh, well I guess we'll have to see. I clean the threads with some brake clean and put a light smear of fresh oil on the oring They are very coarse threads. As soon as the housing makes contact with the block adapter, I stop turning.

I would imagine Comiefornia, would be expensive. I'm in NJ and it's pretty expensive here too.

 

Please elaborate.....

 

That sounds like a challenge a dealer lube tech will gladly take up. I got my money on the lube guy he'll figure out how.