Aluminum oil filter housing downsides?

Wow…….you have a lot of faith in those whom are extremely inexperienced.

 

Because it's solid and once the shoulder on the housing touch the shoulder on the block adapter you can't go any further unlike the plastic one which has a little "give" in the threads

 

It's harder to overtighten than the plastic one. Just a fact is all. Doesn't matter someone's experience level, which I'm familiar with because I more or less get paid to idiot proof things at the plant I work at. Operators can fuck up a wet dream.

 

If that were true, you also wouldn't be able to over torque nuts, bolts and thousands of other things and yet...

 

I’ve used the factory plastic one with no problems. I change my own oil so I don’t over torque them. That’s the main issue, dealerships not properly torquing and just ugga dugga them real tight. Makes it almost impossible to loosen next oil change.

 

That's different. This is a wide housing with very coarse threads. I will be sure to keep an eye out for the first thread complaining that the alloy housing was too tight and wouldn't come off without breaker bars and what not

 

Ok that looks very practical it's like the Fumoto valve everyone is using now a days. How often are you changing the gasket?

I mean it's an OEM product is not like the aluminum is an aftermarket option.

 

Don't have to change the gasket at all. One of the advantages of using these types of valves. It's made of stainless steel

 

I know a few that could eF up an anvil in a sandbox

 

interesting.

 

Keep an eye on oil sales section at Bobistheoilguy website. Buy oil on sale ahead of time. $12-$15, plus tax, for 6 quarts, depending on a sale.
I am right around $21-22 for my oil changes, with synthetic 0w-20 and OEM filter.
I buy filters in cases (10 of them), they come out to $4-$4.50 each

 

15620-31060 for aluminum one. Do not know about the composite one.

$24 Toyota Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHP68A

 

I had the same quandary but decided to give the aluminum one a try. Now I have two of the aluminum housings for two reasons, neither has anything to do with the strength or lack thereof. Either plastic or aluminum will do the job if treated properly - not over torquing them. I also use the The stahlbus® oil drain valve and the oil filter draining tool.

When I am under the vehicle, I have the uninstalled one ready with filter and O-rings ready to go back on immediately after removing the dirty one - less steps.
Also find the lighter color of the aluminum housings to be advantageous to see under the vehicle. Light colored aluminum versus the dark black plastic. Dark things in dark places get harder to see as time goes on.

 

I got the aluminum one to trade off @ oil change time. One housing is prepped and sitting ready to go on while the one on the truck is being removed.



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Thank you for the info. I definitely plan on buy oem filters in bulk

 

Engine Oil Filter Housing - Toyota (15620-36020)

 

There is someone out at a quick lube, accepting your challenge!!!


How many uga duggas, again? Ahhh go until it stops turning!!

 

@TacoSupremo19

I hear you about not being able to over-tighten the aluminum housing…

But people will do it…unwittingly. lol

I hand-tightened mine plus a quarter turn.

No need for anything else but people will be people…generic statement, I know. Lol

 

I have this.

 

Yeah, I guess anything is possible. I just don't see how. It's like a shoulder bolt. Once it hits it STOPS. How are you getting a 1/4 turn past when it stops?