1980 HydroStream Vamp resto-mod

Some better pictures of the repairs after some more sanding in the area. Looks like I wont be able to get much work done this week and will have to rely on the coming weekend to hopefully finish the bottom of the boat. Between taking my daughter to dance tuesday, tutoring friday, and taking both kids to a water park weds and thurs, I dont really have much time to work. This under hull work is a little more time consuming since I have to take stuff out of the garage, setup the front crane, then lift the boat and roll it over (then reverse all that) each time I need to work on it. But this weekend I should have a good solid 20 hours of open time to spend on it.

If I can get the whole thing sanded out, blocked, and filled then I should be able to pick up gelcoat next week and start spraying the bottom of the boat next week, give it a few days to cure up in the air before setting it down on new bunks. Then I can start spraying the topside.

 

Got about 40% of one side of the hull sanded down today, going to try to do 40% of the other side tomorrow before the water park. Then I only have the remaining 60% of the bottom to finish up. Then I get to go over the bottom of the hull with a fine tooth comb and mark every spot that needs some filler. Not sure how much filler I have left, but I think its enough to finish the bottom of the hull off.

 

How thick is the outer skin on the bottom, has it been patched before, if you patch it will it be better than that bondo stuff you removed... I think what I'm getting at is, the bottom is constantly in the water so its GOT to be good. How can you tell it is 100%, or better than new? Are you going to put a new outer skin on it? If you already addressed this just give me the post number and I'll refer to that. I'm just curious how strong a patch can be on the underside.

 

It varies, but most of it is actually pretty thin, this boat is constructed using a core material, so they can run a thinner fiberglass and still get the same strength. The core is balsa wood that is sandwiched between 2 layers of fiberglass.

It had been patched, poorly, but the bondo that I had removed was the patch that was done nearly 20 years ago.

This hull design is unique in the fact that its a open deck style, but the stairs in the front actually link to the hull right where the bow starts. This adds a ton of structure to the front of the boat that normally would have to be built up in fiberglass and core material.

Kinda, the outer fiberglass skin is good, just needs some patch work done and some sanding. But I will be putting a new outer skin of gelcoat on the hull. This will beef up the hull a bit since it is being applied over the old gelcoat.

You can make them really strong or really weak, but there is a fine line you want to keep where its not too much where it just adds weight and extra bulk, and where its too thin and cracks.
In car terms, its like putting military 14 ply tires on your truck or putting 2 ply trailer tires on your truck. One is overkill that would never be used to its potential, the other is too weak and would pop right away. But a 8 ply tire is enough to support the truck up to its own capability.

 

Got my summer boating shirt today I think my wifes going to be mad at this one.

 

If you two go out alone together I'd advise you always wear a life jacket, you just might need it...

 

Haha

 

Alright, tomorrow is the day I get this thing finished and ready for gelcoat! Its going to be in the 70s all day and sunny, so perfect weather to be under the boat sanding away.
I have 3 full weekends to work on the boat, may 4-5 I am out for a fly fishing trip, then the weekend of the 11th is bass opener. I want to be done and on the water sunday the 12th (im not dealing with opener crowds).
So, here is my schedule
April 13-14 finish sanding and repairing hull
April 20-21 gelcoat the entire boat
April 27-28 Wire boat
May 4-5 gone
May 11th install engine
May 12th get out on the water!

Somewhere between april 21st and may 11th I have to drop the boat off at the boat shop to get the transom drilled. That I plan to have done during the week while I am at work.

 

And why cannot you drill the transom yourself? You might ask the shop to take some pics of the drilling, or, if you will be there whilst the drilling is in process, could you take some progress shots?

 

I can drill it myself, but the holes have to be perfectly centered, straight, and all 4 need to be lined up with each other. They have a jig that goes on the back of the transom that makes sure everything is perfect.
I will be asking if I can hang around to take pictures.

I thought about getting the jig and doing it myself like everything else, but the jig is $500.

 

They have the proper jig, sounds like a good value to have them do it.

One of my old Plant Managers (a good one) would say "do what you do well, pay other people to do what they do well".

 

Yeah, Like I could do the transom drilling and make it right, but the chance of it being off is pretty high and I dont want my outboard sitting at a angle.


In other news, I went to go order the new coast guard plate with capacity, engine limit, and all that stuff. Found out in my state its not required on boats built before december 1980... mine was made in january 1980. So thats not going back in as the plates are ugly as hell and you need to put them out in the open. Now if I could just figure out a way to not have to put the registration stickers on the side of the hull... those are super ugly.

86B.505 WATERCRAFT CAPACITY PLATES.
Subdivision 1.Requirement.

(a) A watercraft 20 feet or less in length manufactured for sale in this state after December 31, 1980, except canoes, kayaks, sailboats, sailboards, and inflatable boats, must have a capacity plate permanently affixed to the watercraft by the manufacturer. The capacity plate must contain information relating to maximum safe carrying and power capacity specifications prescribed by the commissioner. The information contained on the capacity plate must, at a minimum, comply with the established standards and regulations of the United States Coast Guard.

 

Agree, even neatly applied stick on letters & numbers are still just stick on letters & numbers.

Worse is when you see a nice looking boat and the stickers look like they were put on by a sugared up 5 year old.

 

Yep, on mine I am going to take it to a pin striper. See if they can make nice fancy registration numbers. The actual MN registration sticker is another problem... Here is the sticker on my little boat (blue sticker). There is just no way to make it look good.

I might see if I can have the pin striper make a nice "frame" for the date sticker to go in, just some thing to church it up a bit.

 

ok, Stripping this old glass without damaging the gelcoat under it is proving to be a pain in the ass. Im thinking its going to be easier to just use the grinder and take it all down, then cover the whole area with fairing compound. Its about the same amount of work, just easier work as fairing compound sands much better than glued on fiberglass covered with oil based house paint.

I did try the heat gun, while it works its takes a ton of scraping and I dont know how it affects the fiberglass under the paint.

 

Okay, looks like we are all in agreement. Go ahead, take the boat to have it drilled by the professional. Meeting adjourned.

 

Last ditch effort to get the paint off the bottom of the hull before I hit it with the grinder... Put paint stripper on there. Its kinda working, Im using citrastrip stuff, but I also have the toxic stuff to try out.

 

ok, one side is like 90% cleaned up and sanded. I did find a little more damage, its not bad so a couple layers of fiberglass and some filler will do the trick. But I am going to need to get more filler on monday. So this weekend is 100% going to just be sanding and getting everything ready for filler during the week, then gelcoat next weekend. Taking a break now since I have been at it for 7 hours... going to hit the liquor store and also get some dog food.

 

Couple pictures from today, nothing super exciting. The spot thats not sanded in these pictures has been sanded. Pictures of the ground out damage on the hull and a picture showing where I need to get filler down to smooth out those angle grinder marks.

 

Almost forgot, there is a change to my timeline. I am pushing back first launch a week. I remembered mothers day is on the 12th, the day I wanted to get the boat out.
So now I have a extra week of time to get everything taken care of. Plans are now for the 18th and 19th to have it all wrapped up and in the water.