Long Travel BS Thread

Bushings are good, bolts seized and had to cut them

 

yeah

 

Thank you!!!!

 

Anyone has a king lower rod end available with pressed bearing in it, dont care if its bad just need to mock up some mounts

 

Does it matter if it's long or short/IFS front or rear? I think I have one - if you'll return it?

 

Need to keep

 

have you cycled the rear end with just the main leaf, no nitrogen in the bumps, or shocks. Your bump might be mounted to high, if everything checks out with the shock/bump mounts id say you've probably got something binding somewhere for sure.

 

I was going to say, with 14's and SOA, that lower shock mount is pretty low, comparable to stock. I've installed half a dozen AG relocations with 14's and SOA. If the axle is able to move multiple inches higher due to SUA, that lower perch would be super low, if it's even possible to rotate it that low without interference in other places.

edit: Could just keep a 12" in there and redo the lower mounts I guess. It wouldn't run into that interference issues and you'd gain the benefit of increased uptravel. If that doesn't work out for you, you're hardly worse off since you only had to redo lower mounts.

 

what chase light is that? is there drilling required for that?

 

https://tacomapros.com/2005-tacoma-rear-dust-light-housing-for-baja-designs-s2-single-light/

No drilling required. Gotta buy your own BD S2 lights yourself.

 

guess its worth mentioning I'm going off 2.0" measurement's lol

 

I’m a little confused with your terminology, IMO axle wrap typically is a term used to define the axle twisting on top of the leafs from driveline torque IE: axle is mounted to leaf springs which are flexible so it rolls back under acceleration causing the pinion to jump up and then rolls forward under braking which causes the pinion to dive under braking. I know - you know this shit, just clarifying for the larger audience.

It seems like what you are experiencing is normal axle path variation that is caused by the imperfect and variable arc of a parabolic shaped leaf spring ( ie: not a perfect radius path of travel ) that flexes and reacts to the direction of the impact force a little differently each time. Since a leaf does not provide a solid predictable path your axle wobbles all over the place as the leaf springs compress depending on the input / impact force and direction. Primarily the axle rolls back as the spring bends / compresses. This action is the same regardless of SUA kit ( if using the same leaf pack ) because the front hangar is a fixed point so the only variable is the flex of the leaf pack itself.

Are you saying that your bump pad is missing the bump stop when this happens ? and you attribute that movement of the axle to a faulty SUA kit design ?

OR...is the problem that you stripped your pack down to the main, but a spacer block in etc to mock up the pack stack height, cycled the single main leaf to full bump with a jack and then positioned your hydro bump accordingly but then found that the fully assembled leaf pack didn't actually flex the same and now your missing your bump pad ? or if you don't have a bump pad your axle is glancing off of the bump stop ?

 

I’m hitting the bump pad dead nuts. The problem is there’s so much wrap in real life that it’s bottoming the shock before it compresses the bump even half way. And to be 100% honest, every single person I talked to about this style shackle all talked about how bad they are for inducing wrap.

Sitting in the shop right now packs broke down it cycles fine. Bump fully compressed and roughly 1/2” of shaft remaining. Real world is entirely different.

As stated earlier, I’m going to pull some numbers tonight/this weekend. I will post as much as I can about this.

 

Seems like the easiest solution then would be to relocate your bump pads to the actual point of impact, no? Of course to be precise, you would need to be able to compress the full leaf pack, or get video of where the contact point is at full compression on the trail.

 

It’s hitting the pump pad exactly where it should. The bump is properly placed, the pad is properly placed.

The only “fix” at this point would be taking even more travel out of it. Which would be slapping a gigantic bandaid on the wall feeling but still kill my driveshaft.

Easiest solution is going with the most proven SUA that exists for these trucks.

 

To put things into better terms.

The wrap was quite literally so bad that I was always afraid to take off hard from a stop for fear of breaking something. The rear would rise, no joke 4-5” under hard acceleration. Even Harry told me it was the axle wrap.

Does it have something to do with being a manual? The thought is there. Manuals do transfer power a whole lot more efficiently.

But the deeper I got talking with others, that have quite literally built race trucks their entire lives, the more I kept hearing “the top mounted shackles induce a ton of wrap” “we wouldn’t be running bottom mount (torsion shackles) if they weren’t superior” Look at AMR, look at giant, camburg, DMZ, dirtking. You really going to tell me ALL of these guys got it wrong?

Truthfully, I’m tired of being talked to like I don’t know what I’m looking at. I’ve been at this suspension stuff for nearly 2 decades now. From autox to drag cars to now off-road. I have a very solid understanding of what is actually going on.

The truck was setup just like I’ve set up everything else in my life. Proper.

But all I ever got from day 1 of complaining about this issue to JD was

“that’s the bypass bump zone”

“you don’t have terrain like we do”

“you went with too heavy of a spring”

“hydro bumps suck for leafs”

And on and on and on.

 

I wish there was go-pro footage of this wrap happening so we could really see what was happening with your leaf packs. You ran the H70HD with a leaf removed yes? Did you compensate with a spacer for the removed leaf? I hope the pack would still be strong enough with a leaf removed to not wrap like a wet ramen noodle, but the amount of wrap your talking about (enough to kill the driveshaft) sounds like something is up at the axle level. There’s no way this kit would still be on the market if the geometry was that bad.

Edit: Okay we get it, you know what you’re talking about. But this whole thread is a group of enthusiasts and we’re trying to understand why your truck is having so many issues.

 

There’s quite literally no need for a spacer? Be different if we were talking SOA maybe.

 

Oh yeah, duh. Pardon my brain on the spacer. Rest of my statement remains the same though. Idk how you’re getting that amount of axle wrap.

 

I don’t either. How many other manuals out there running this kit?