Long Travel BS Thread

Going to keep the 14’s in it. Might change that at a later date. Cutting the JD towers out and standing the shock a little more vertical. Notching the frame a little for some extra tire/shock clearance and sending it. Tim thinks I’ll be able to get close to full travel from his kit with some creativity.

 

Yeah, the archive tower is significantly more vertical which actually helps combat wrap to an extent. But just hearing @Sixthelement say he notices the rear rise confirms my suspicions that it’s likely not just me. And I assume the more power you have the worse it gets. Not that my 4.0 is anything to brag about, but it is snappier than a 3.5. I’m also applying lots of torque to my axle with 37’s which is also likely playing some part.

 

Yeah that's sick. I'm gonna have to see that happen.

My procrastinating ass still won't make a decision for a bed cage or JDs shock tower haha

 

Get the DMZ bed cage. Stick with his stuff. He has soooo much time invested into making that kit what it is.

 

I also attribute it to anti squat, driving the axle down versus sucking it up and loosing traction. Not that the rear is only rising like a wedge. But the truck as a whole would rise. However with the rear sitting low now, none of that happens. hence, new springs from Deaver. The H70HD just cant hold it.

 

The “anti squat” is actually a product from the wrap. When the leafs wrap, it sucks the shackle down, creating lift. It’s really not anti squat, though similar. It is the easiest way to reference it though.

 

If was getting that bad of wrap though, the rear would always be bouncing, it doesnt.

 

Mine wasn’t bouncy. Yet, here we are.

 

I set mine up with the pinion pointed down more than normal so as it wrapped it was still ok. Always bottomed my bumps fully and always had the last 3/4" or so of shock shaft unused. I had extra wiggle room with 16s though.

Definitely the axle wrapped a lot. If you put the parking brake on and just put the truck in drive and then reverse, the whole back of the truck would move up and down substantially. Never noticed it driving though really.

My kit cycled 16.5" of travel with around 9" up on the h70hd pack. I really enjoyed it while I had it. My wheelbase didn't change that I ever noticed.

 

This was my identical experience

 

Personally, I’m believing that in whoops what’s happening is the wrap is repetitively happening. And gradually gets worse the longer you go. Similar to shock packing.

Every whoop is a load/unload of power. So it’s constantly wrapping. Especially considering im holding it in the powerband in the whoops. Again, maybe it’s a manual thing?

All I know, is this an absolutely insane amount of wrap to be having the issues I’m having. I set this truck up conservatively. I’m confident in that.

Had this not been in the picture, I enjoyed the hell out of the kit. But damn was it frustrating chasing this main gremlin down. And unfortunately, there really isn’t a “good” fix for it. For me at least.

I feel any kit involving leafs is going to have wrap. It’s just the pure nature of leafs. But this was excessive. And looking back, I think it was likely the entirety of my issues. Aside from the wheelbase thing.

 

My last trip out in the desert, I posted a video, I cant say I felt any "wrap" only time I feel any wrap is from dead stop on pavement and when I mash the skinny pedal, (34's, 4.88's) I get no universal drive line feedback either but the rear does rise not squat like typical SOA's do( could be wrap) with the front end as the Torque is applied throughout the frame and vehicle.
Once the truck is moving the torque effect stabilizes the truck returns to ride height.

In whoops in the desert I cant think of a time where it felt like any wrap or drive line shutter was taking place. And the Slot canyon runs( videos are posted) I do from near stopped back to full throttle on a regular basis over miles of desert would give me plenty of opportunities to feel any feedback but haven't.

 

The only time I ever actually felt the wrap was from a dead stop or nailing the skinny at low speed low gear. I never felt a bounce or anything like that at speed. It was more of a travel just stopped like I used every last bit of my hydro. Even though I didn’t.

I’m constantly tuning shocks etc, so every single ride I would reset my o-rings on the hydros and look at them after the ride to see what was going on. The most I ever used from my rear bumps was about 1/2” but 1/4 was the typical.

I do question my theory on the wheel base having an impact on this though. If the front hanger was too far forward it would have a massive impact on geometry all around.

At full droop, straps disconnected. I wouldn’t be able to pull even the 16.5” people are saying they got. Which makes absolutely no sense.

@snowsk8air2 and I had compared front hanger positions at one point, and visually mine appeared to be an inch or so further forward than what his DMZ front hangers were.

 

Same leaf pack?

 

DMZ uses the same leaf as what an h70 is minus the fact DMZ runs an in between of an h70 and h70hd. Dimensionally they are identical.

 

So your thinking is that the JD fab SUA kit is positioning the rear wheel 1 inch forward vs stock or other kits?

Is that causing a performance issue or just aesthetics?

 

I’m not thinking, I know mine is a bit over an inch further forward. Aesthetically it has been called out, but it could also be impacting the geometry of the kit.

Not sure what everyone else sees, but leaf separation with my JD kit is very real. And is an indicator of stretching the leafs beyond their intended use. At full droop, you should see zero separation. I had to take 2” of travel out of it via strap to eliminate the leaf separation.

The DMZ kit has absolutely zero separation at full droop metal to metal.

 

Here are some side shots. Plus a shot of the truck when it was white on the same wheel and tire package with SOA.

 

hmmm, at full droop I get very little day light between my leafs, like I get the same day light between leafs with the friction pads, once at full droop I do get a tad more but that's like at even enough to measure.

My wheel seems to be centered in the wheel well too.

Screen capture from my last movie, its rough but it seems to be centered, stock bedsides with flares trimmed of course.

 

as an idea, is there enough room on the front hanger to where you could drill holes 1 inch change the position?