Long Travel BS Thread

You definitely don’t seem to be as far forward as I am at full bump.

And as I’ve stated before it’s hard to mess something up that bolts into factory holes. And since the leafs check out dimensionally that only leaves the parts that were made by JD. I just don’t see it any other way.

 

I would have to cut into my body mount, which isn’t a big deal as it no longer serves a purpose. But it’s honestly all too late for that.

I had intended on making a new front hanger to move things back, but the steering ate too much time this winter and I really want to drive the thing. And not be chasing rear issues for the 3rd year in a row.

 

perhaps see if you can buy another manufactures bolt on hanger? Or at least get them to take a picture of theirs and see if they have the hole in a different location? Like camburgs bolt on LT kit that uses the same leaf pack? Just a thought.

 

btw, I am in the top hanger hole, using a 9 inch shackle and strapped getting just under 15" no frame notch

 

Very similar travel to me then. As far as trying to make this kit work it’s honestly just easier for me to start over with a proven kit.

Everybody offsets their springs a bit different when it comes to SUA so a hanger from a different company is probably not going to work.

I just truly messed up and fell into the trap of the all mighty “boat anchor”. DMZ was originally what I was going to run, and got convinced this kit was far superior to anything ever created.

For what it’s worth, my kit was ordered not long after they released it. So how many revisions has it gone through since? Companies are good at letting others R&D their products then stay hush hush about changes made through years of production.

Not saying that’s the case here, but I have seen it numerous times across the board in the automotive performance industry.

 

Did you ever have someone compare measurements on the front hanger mounting holes? It wouldn’t be the first time something came out of a Toyota factory fucked up. I really can’t imagine why else you’d be mounted an inch further than everyone else with a bolt on kit.

 

I can't see Jesse or Dave doing that actually. Likewise I can't see Harry suggesting the kit with the knowledge of it sub par of what is should be. Granted I know these Gents, and have never had any issues with any of them customer wise and the customer service I have received from them when I had issues with my steering was nothing short of amazing.

With that said could have been a run of cut parts with mistakes made that got welded up and sent out with dimensional issues? perhaps, it has happened both aftermarket and OEM.

The picture of your wheel arch is telling of a possible 2 fold issue, although I am leaning towards the glass manufacture.

 

differential between 2nd gen vs 3rd gen?

 

We took numbers directly from the wife’s truck to confirm the wheel base is shorter. We utilized factory frame locations to do this. Much like a frame repair facility would do.

Jesse has always been good to me. I’ll never ever deny that. Harry pissed me off a solid couple of times with responses of “ you’re wrong” etc. The owner should always be the face of a business. And I feel that was a critical mistake.

I also connected with a couple of other people running the exact glass I am with DMZ kits and they are way more centered than I am. So I am ruling glass out of the equation. Though it does carry merit in the fact molds aren’t always that accurate.

 

Could be a bad tolerance stack? hanger dimensions and glass dimensions all lean towards your tires current position? Seriously I am out of ideas, all I know is mine is working very well, lines up in the wheel well arch, I have others I know and wheel with and use the same kit and no issues, some have stock bedsides and others have glass and no complaints all work very well.

 

I’m out of ideas as well. Hence spending even more money on a different kit. Which I really, really despise doing.

I’m not even sure I would feel OK selling this stuff to recoup SOME of my losses.

 

You’re obviously committed to switching it up at this point but did you ever consider the traction bar option? Or just didn’t want to hassle with this style shackle at all

 

A bar was a consideration. Until I got deeper into things measuring and cycling etc. then I realized it wasn’t as simple as tossing a bar on to make it right. I’m about as fussy as they come. And once I see something, unseeing it isn’t happening.

 

I know we tried to measure off my truck. But since I have the frame braces hard to tell. I know at full droop I dont have pack separation. Or much at all. As a few friction pads have made their way loose and when we had it on the lift for the steering rack I tried to push em back just for aesthetics and no budge

 

I have not read all the posts on this issue but of the ones I have I don't recall anybody questioning the springs or spring perches. Could the center pin just be a bit off? Has the position of the centerline of axle been measured at full droop and full compression in relationship to say the front spring hanger? In 906taco's pictures it does not look like the axle moves rearward. When checking with just the main leaf is that main leaf flattening out is it just bending into a tighter arc in those pictures? Maybe a simple traction bar/link bar much like what was used on 65' and 66' Shelby mustangs.

 

I just couldn't resist the buttons "labeled Slow Motion"

https://youtu.be/YPMNIdA1GNg

 

My separation at full droop with straps disconnected. The clamps aren’t on as the packs are broken down so it shows the actual severity. If I hook up my straps it’s gone. But also eats 2” of down travel.

 

I may be talking out of the side of my neck, but if the pack is fully assembled with the Deaver holder/clamps on it wont be like that.
those clamps from deaver are there to keep the leafs aligned and to limit the separation ??

 

At full droop im barely on my straps with 14.5" of shocks shaft and damn near 15 inch from bump plate to bump at compressed point.

 

Separation is separation my friend. Yes that’s part of why the clamps are there, but ideally you don’t want to see any separation. It’s an indicator that the pack is being stretched and pulled in an unnatural manner. Look at the DMZ kit for instance. 0 separation at full droop metal to metal unstrapped.