Long Travel BS Thread

My booster vibrated the shit out of the fenders until I bent them out. I imagine I'd need a lot more hammering to get enough space to be able to remove it though.

 

I’ll have to do the same when the time comes to change the brake booster.

Swapping in a Tundra booster?

 

Yep tundra booster and MC.

 

@SoonToBeOn35s

looks like those shackles were never even installed on his truck

https://forum.badlinesgoodtimes.com/threads/tflow-tacoma.1408/

went straight to 3 link

 

Yeah, you can see the parts where Steve tack welded the hangars into the truck, then grinded it off.

That kit must be old considering how long ago he starting piecing it together

 

what would a back half cost if I paid someone to do 100% of it? I know this can widely range based on the parts and quality, so do your best.

 

Back-halfing mine right now. 100% self performed, so zero labor cost. Forecasting the parts/materials/consumables to be about $10k based on what I've already bought and still have left to purchase.

Most of the off road specific parts are coming from online/West Coast which means they are the same as what everyone else here would pay, but all of my steel is purchased locally or from wholesalers with regional warehouses, so steel prices in South Carolina may be more or less than wherever you are.

Edit: no bypasses in the 10k, so add a few more grand if you need to buy those too.

 

30ish
If you provided nothing in way of parts or fab or anything

 

Depends a lot on specific kit and who is installing it. I can only talk about my JDFab experience but they quoted 40 hours shop time for the install @ 125/hr ($5k) + $3.5k for the kit + 2k for the shocks. I imagine an independent shop installing their kit might take a little longer since presumably they'd have less experience.

10-15k seems a lot more reasonable than 30k. Curious how you arrive at 30 @Caboose117?

Sorry, to be clear my numbers above are SUA (& are actual quotes on an invoice, not guestimates) since we were talking about leafs right before that post. But if you're talking about a full back half, e.g., linked and caged, that's a way different ball game.

 

I’d expect more along this line.
Not sure if you got a cab cage already @soggyBottom but if you’re back halfing, and I assume you’re thinking links at this point, $30k would be minimum for all that work.
Full size cab cages for the ford raptor shop near me generally go $15-20k depending on the level of luxury you wanna go.

when you really think about it, the fabricator is essentially designing in building 1/2 of an entire truck from scratch. It’s not nearly as simple as running frame rails, but building something purpose built for offroad.

This is where some kits from TE DESIGNS Are coming out and can make the base structure easier for whatever builder you go with. They have a back, half kit, access, cab, cage, kit, and are coming out with a double cab cage kit, I believe. This will cut down on a lot of the design stage time away from the Fab guy, but you are also limited to what someone else has already designed and created.

 

That's a good call. I assumed they were talking about SUA since that's what we were talking about earlier in the thread but 100% if you're talking about a full back half linking, caging those numbers are way, way different than installing an SUA kit. Agree 30k is more the ballpark.

 

That’s where my mind goes lol, I personally wouldn’t bother with a back half unless I was already caged, and going links. Or doing it all at once.
Only caveat is something similar to what @snowsk8air2 did And kept his leaf set up because they work great and it was the frame issues he had that necessitated it

 

Yeah back half immediately makes me think fuel cell, coolers, big shocks, links, sway bar, wiring, batteries, axel, diff, driveshaft, hubs, plus fab and design, and if you use any normal shop include the lost time of car insurance and vehicle registration ie 6mo to a year minimum of down time.
I’m my situation I’ve got my Tacoma listed as “in storage” on my insurance and unfortunately have to pitch out the annual registration to keep my license valid

me and @WormSquirts just discussed this exact issue and the “loss” of totaling the vehicle vs selling your running truck and buying a non op


Back halving a leaf truck and keeping it leaf sprung is like going to Thailand looking for girls and settling on a hot ladyboy

like… why

 

@906taco do you have a rough idea when those bumper brackets are gonna be able to buy?

 

Truck porn
for those interested my daily is almost back on the road

 

i've got a newbie question, but before I go about making custom fenders I want to be sure...

on a +3 fender or bedside like https://www.mcneilracinginc.com/products/96-04-toyota-tacoma-3-bulge-off-road-fiberglass-fenders is that +3 from the BODY or +3 from the factory Flare?

I'm expecting to sit 4" - 4.5" wider than the factory flare with my 3.5 kit and wheel offset.

i did a search but this question is more buried than I really want to get after

 

From the sheet metal which is usually lined up with the factory track width. 3.5 covers some of a 3.5 over long travel kit mud sling etc. but not very well. "Rise" is the amount above the oe wheel opening for the glass fender.

 

I realized all fiberglass is tapered at the bottom which still allows a shit ton of mud to get caked on the side.

My 6" glass still allows mud to get thrown to the bedside

 

They will be ready in a couple of weeks! Just confirming some fitment.

 

these lights look so much better than light bars