Any reason to avoid higher mileage Tacoma?

I've been going back and forth for the better part of 3 weeks now. I'm looking for a rust free double cab Tacoma that's manual transmission. Ive found a few in my area and due to hidden/covered up rust areas and a possible cracked frame, I've narrowed it down to a 2010 with 150k and a 2023 with 12k.

Car payment is a huge deciding factor here, I would much prefer to NOT have a heavy car payment for quite a few years BUT the idea of having things covered until 100k is appealing but in theory, a Toyota should hit at least 100k before needing work so I'd be on my own after that point anyway.

My wife and I are expecting our second child in September and ideally, she would like to go part time instead of working full time and paying a stranger to care for our child.

This brings me to the point of my post, the 2010 has 150k on it, unknown service hx but started up with no issue after sitting a dealer lot for 2 months, has no rust, runs and drives well (reminded me of my 1991 x-tra cab but actually had enough power to merge onto the highway) and is in overall nice shape. The engine is quiet, no leaks that I saw, clutch is strong, shifted into 4x4 hi/lo without issue, cold AC and hot heat. It needs a new passenger front wheel bearing, accessory belt and pulleys, new headlights/fogs and an updated radio. A friend of mine is a Toyota Technician, does work at home and offered to do the wheel bearing for a significantly reduced price. The 10 put a smile on my face similar to the first time I drove my 94 Landcruiser.

My plan for the 10 if I get it would be fix the known issues, fresh fluids all around, grease the u-joints, fill the gas tank and drive it.

I'm not afraid of doing vehicle maintenance but would prefer spending time with my family going places and not sitting in the garage chasing yet another damn problem. For the record, I currently drive a 2017 BMW 328 diesel wagon that is a fantastic vehicle but very high maintenance and I am done with that crap.

Thanks for reading my novel and I await your responses.

 

Sounds like you have a handle on it and know what to look for, I’d get the 10 replace what’s need and keep up with maintenance. Don’t let the miles worry you.

 

I agree I would get the 10 based on your willingness and access to help if you do need to fix anything.

 

get a toyota or honda mini van . Its a no brainer

 

150k is high mileage?

I haven't had to do any major maintenance on my 2010. Wheel bearings, alternator, starter, oil, and brakes. It just keeps going.

Go for it!

 

You found the 2010 traded in at a Toyota dealership? So they probably traded it in for another Toyota... because they had good luck with the Taco they traded in.

I'd be more inclined to buy a used Taco than a new Beemer...

 

Inspect the truck.

I’ve never had a CEL. It’s DIYable. And not German. That’s the point.
Some German cars are reliable. Most are not. They usually don’t have capability.

lots to choose from.

10k mi/yr is probably average statistic.

having a warranty for 100k doesn’t mean anything if it means getting a newer worse vehicle that will break in and outside of that warranty rather than one that doesn’t.
Most 2nd gen’s probably only ever been to a dealer once for free leaf recall before putting a pack on it. 100k isn’t a window where things break on a reliable vehicle.

you’d have a tough time getting mine from me regardless of miles. Wheel bearings pulleys sounds normal on any vehicle.

check out B8 A4 2.0t
Award winning engine
For worst motor ever made
Lmk how you like any kind of warranty on that

be advised. Opie engineered TOB on RA60F.

 

10k mi/yr is decent. Vehicles hate sitting.

 

This is the only thing that caught my attention "started up with no issue after sitting a dealer lot for 2 months" -- these seem so hard to find. it seems odd it would be sitting at the dealer lot for 2 months (unless somewthing is wrong). Like others note, I would go for it if the price is reasonable. As part of your final check, I'd see if your toyota tech buddy could give it a once over.

 

Go ahead & get the Tacoma! The key word here is 'rust', and if it passes this criteria, you're good to go. As for the BMW, I also own a ///M car, and in case you didn't know, FCPEuro is your friend! Everything you buy from them comes with a lifetime replacement guaranty, INCLUDING oil changes! Just ship the old oil and filter back to get full credit. However, they don't sell tires yet. So don't give up on the beamer.

 

Go for the 2023 . Lots of parts on any 2010 vehicle just go downhill.

 

so instead of a 2010 than has gone up and down many hills without a CEL

Spend more on a turd gen where motor broke going on a hill and engine chokes itself on oil

Yes.

pre 2010 means it’s in the shop for an oil change can’t find anything wrong with it refuses to die.
Pre 2010 means a whopping 3 computers without windshield camera forced down your throat
Pre 2010 is when certain cars lasted and were bulletproof.
B5 A4. B6 A4. B7 A4. MB W210, maybe W211. P71 Crown Vic. Old Toyotas/Lexus. Old 2500’s. pre 2010.
But what do I know

according to a Toyota tech on YouTube 1GRFE is one of if not most reliable Toyota motor ever made. There is only one Tacoma that comes in.
But what does he know.

pics or it didn’t happen

if only FCP, autohausAZ, pelicanparts, europaparts, ECS tuning, etc added the Tacoma…

maybe it doesn’t break enough for them to sell anything

 

Agreed w/ 2nd gens better than 3rd gens.

Pre-2016 (2015 or earlier) checks most of the same boxes as pre-2010, innit? Trusty V6 1GR-FE, no onboard cameras, no anti-collision braking, no expensive radar sensors, etc. 2012+ do have the pesky SAIS pump but that can be worked around.

 

How many more yrs are you looking to get out of a 14 yr old vehicle?

 

It's a small dealer and their price is too high.

My Landcruiser is 30 and still rolling. If I could get 5-8 out of the Tacoma, which I think is reasonable with maintenance and rust proofing/remediation, I think I'd be happy.

 

Their price is too high.

 

What would the cost out the door (not including repairs on the 2010 that you know of at this time) be for either vehicle? That's a huge factor.

In general my 2010 at just under 140K is solid. I did drop about $4000 into it last year, 50-50 for regular stuff or not so much. Still runs strong, was reframed 3 yrs ago, and still checks off all the boxes for my needs. 4 cylinder, single cab, 2WD.

I was in a 2022 double cab OffRoad for a week recently while mine was in the body shop. More truck than I'd have need of though it was a nice rig.

 

C'mon, man. It's a 1st or 2nd gen Tacoma. Like an Egyptian pharaoh, you get buried with it if you can afford a big enough tomb.

My 2014 Taco is now 10 years old, with 78K on the ODO.

Expected service lifetime is at least another 20 years. Possibly 30.

 

Where did the frame break?

 

In areas where rust is an issue it can easily be the years that take more toll than mileage. In those parts of the country actual mileage can be of secondary concern since simple mechanical issues are often made more complex by rusted/frozen fasteners and corrosion is more often than not pervasive. If I lived in the rust belt I’d be very much inclined to look elsewhere for a used ride or look for one of those garaged unicorns that were only driven in summer. If I had to buy local I’d factor in accelerating rust into any longevity estimate.