Long Travel BS Thread

depends on your usage and what type of wheeling youre doing really

 

This is the whole reason why I went 3.0 in the rear and going with a 3.0 Bypass in the front.

 

The bump zone is absolutely not a replacement for a bump stop. You will blow through the bump zone 10x easier than you will blow through a hydro.

 

so the 1st gen is +3 from the sheet metal and the 2nd/3rd gen are +3 from the factory narrow flare

looks like I might be making my own flares that will be a +4.5 (3in off the factory flare) with about a 3 in rize and styling fairly similar to the Mcneil

 

bumping off of the LCA has never been a durability issue, the problem with it is that the bump engages the LCA wayyyy too early and you end up riding the bump for 3-40% of your up travel whereas with a bump off of the top of the spindle it is more of a true bump stop

that is f-n epic !

 

Aren't bump stops that bump off the top of the spindle only possible with horizontal uniball spindles?

Any normal bolt on LT kit seems impossible to mount a bump stop that hits the spindle (other than the lsk kit)

 

Yeah def the way it is supposed to be done & you obviously need an engine cage to tie into but I've def seen a few people bumping right off off the top of their UCA / spindle bolt head

 

Thats one if the reasons I chose a 3.0 bypass for the front. The "bump zone" difference is huge when compared to a 2.5. Ill be able to run less PSI on the bump at the LCA and rely more on the bypass..or at least make everything more balanced as it all works together... in theory at least

 

well if there is one thing I've learned from this thread lately it's that if they don't do it that way on $500k trucks you just shouldn't even bother...

 

Yup..Our 6100 Truck doesn't even have bumps in the front. But its shy of 500k so..

 

Most ideal method for bumping off of the lower with a hydro is a slapper. You can get a greater range of travel before engaging the bumps. Absolute most ideal way is off of the UCA but if you don’t have an engine cage that’s tough to do.

 

I’ve been nervous about my rear diff ever since it was on 35’s and here we are going on 4 years later on 37’s.

Turns out, I think the weak point is actually the axle bearings as both of mine are cooked.

I don’t know what it is about these non e locked rears but my lord do they take abuse.

I think majorly in part to the girdled caps as apposed to the non girdled e locker. I do also run 250w in mine. Funny to think how durable these stock driveline trucks are.

 

True that. I've always thought it was funny how Dana 35 are weak with 35"+ but they're comparable to a Toyota 8" rear end.

Then there is people like Mike from marlin crawler with 40s and no issue.

 

im in fear of toasting my rear/front diff’s with the V8.

 

Yeah, they won’t be long for the world with good power

 

So much comes down to knowing how to drive too. I’m sure if I tried I could break it. But I find zero fun in fixing stuff. So driver mod it is lol.

 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CgNLD1NjEDO/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Works well.

 

If the rear blows, ford 9” it is, but I don’t even know what I’d do if the front blew.

 

You don't even know how many times I tried playing that video just to find out it's a screen shot

 

35s on a 4runner I had some cracks starting after ~5 years of crawling but the stress is a lot different. Sent it off to ecgs and got a fresh one under warranty so I can’t complain.

see a good amount of later 4runners/fjs/tacomas break them crawling but I think shock load is what really kills them, or landing under power going fast. I’m sure people beating on a 15 year old oem diff that has loose tolerances doesn’t help too.

I do agree elockers seem to have more failures.