Long Travel BS Thread

I've always thought the same about the diffs. The 8" diff from these and hiluxes are like the go-to for supra guys and guys building toyota based drag/drift cars but yet here they get a lot of hate from guys putting 1/3rd the horsepower through them Gotta be another factor involved

 

I've been through so many ELocker 3rds I've learned to redo them myself and knock them out in the driveway, they aren't too hard to setup. Like what @906taco and others have mentioned, the non ELocker version is the better option to go with.


After I'm done with the JDFab Front LT install ill be tackling the rear-end. I have two options that I'll be deciding on.

Option 1 is the JDFab rear-end, but that will have to entail everything needed to make the disk brakes work properly, and loss of ABS function. My junk is still my DD, and I'll drive it to the trailhead where ever its at and back home. So that's something to consider.

Option 2 is to get a Trail-Gear housing, and a Ebay non ELocker 3rd. Refresh it with new bearings and gears, add some kind of traction device that will likely be an ARB Air Locker to match the Front. For less than what Option 1 will be and still retain ABS function. Either way I go, I'll be confident enough I won't have to keep carrying a spare diff while on the trail. My Spare Diff box is about 90lbs with everything needed.

 

What's the benefit over stock for Option 2?

Wouldn't the regular Toyota diff still require carrying a spare?


...that said I swapped my e-locker TRD:OR rear axle for a non-e-locker SR5 axle/housing with a ARB locked rear on 4.88's after I stripped my 3.73's.

 

The Trail-Gear Housing is more beef and supposedly offers more clearance than a SR5 Housing. Also has an option for a Inspection Hole.
https://trail-gear.com/axles/fabricated-05-15-tacoma-rear-axle-housing-8-4-inch-1-4-inch-wall.html

 

Bilstein 2.0 bumps and cans from poly performance. Affordable combo that works really well. 2.25" holesaw, a welder /a friend with a welder and a little time is all you need. Do things yourself and save some green!! It took me about 4 hours total to cycle, mockup and finish both sides.

 

Fusion 4x4 offers a housing that will except a 9" carrier and stock brakes with ability for abs sensors. They are also offered in different widths and custom widths. They are DOM tubes not chromoly. Toyota Axle Assemblies - Fusion4x4

 

@Caboose117 has a sick rear 9" setup I think he wants to sell

 

Shock loading is definitely the main killer. But running a heavy lube like 250w sidelines lots of that shock. Everyone always seems so stuck on sticking with manufacturers recommended oil viscosity for diffs. Hypoid gears are hypoid gears. 250w just needs to be warmed up a little before driving hard.

 

Option 3, piece together your own 9” completely assembled for less than the JD housing. If you put some time in you can build a bad ass 9” floater for about 4,500$ to the same exact spec. Brakes and gears included.

With so many different vendors for 9” parts and whatnot, it’s pretty easy to build a bad ass rear on the cheap.

 

For 10g’s probably lmao

 

I've been in the rocks more than go-fast terrain over the last 15 years with no diff issues. i do have the 8.4'' sport diff with the internal truss, which is probably a bigger factor than the oil i use......however.....
Redline heavy shockproof gear oil is pretty incredible. their website probably explains it in much better detail, but imagine it similar to a non-newtonian fluid. flows like a thinner gear oil, but under shock loads, it thickens up and performs like a 250. i think its actually rated as 75/250. if you slowly tilt a bottle of it over, instead of dripping, you get this super thin "strand" of oil that droops down 2 feet before the surface tension lets it go. pretty cool stuff.

@Torspd turned me on to the stuff about a decade ago, and can probably correct me if i've mis-described it.

 

So I should be running this shit in my front and rear diffs

 

I do, but read about the stuff and see if you like it. I also run a more traditional oil from them in my transfer case. few extra bucks per quart for something with a tangible difference was a win in my mind.

 

Shockproof is exactly what I run. It’s an enormous difference. But warm up still needs to be a thing if it’s cooler.

 

I wish I had known that was an option when I swapped mine! damnit!
Had to weld on shock mounts anyway so not much extra work... oh well.

 

The hardest part for me was the upside-down welding. I'm a hobby welder for 30 years and my welds under there look like poop.

 

Wicked creations has fabbed housing that keeps the ABS also.
https://www.wicked-creations.com/wc-toyota-rear-axle/

 

Configured its $8700 before shipping lmao

 

If getting rid of ABS is the route to take, I went with a F69 which uses the Solid Axle Industries full floater hub kit and it was $6k total for the housing and Currie 35 spline axles and Currie ARB diff. I had to pay to have the snouts welded in since I don’t have a table, true bar, or 220, but that would have saved a lot of dough. As far as the housing and hub combo, @atvlifestyle uses a Camburg housing and the SAI kit like me and jumps his truck more than anyone on TW that I’ve seen and @Basikbiker uses a RS housing with the SAI kit if I’m not mistaken. Just another option if ditching the lame ABS.

 

At the point of needing a 9”. ABS is doing nothing good for you. The factory ABS system is designed to work around factory suspension and tire size. It simply cannot keep up with what we do. Get rid of it, get good brakes and you’re going to be so much better off.