2020 3.5L Internal Failure @ 42k miles

Not something I expected to happen at 42k miles...

2020 TRD Sport, bought as certified pre owned @ ~22k miles in 2022

Did DIY oil changes at 26k, had dealer do at 29k, DIY at 35k and 40k. Always used OEM filter and 0w20 full synthetic. I keep track of the services with receipts for the parts on carfax app.

So my last oil change was just over a month ago, everything was grand, I did a ~600 mile road trip during the eclipse time, ~100 miles over the weekend.

Yesterday I had a Dr. Appt ~20 minutes away and right when I was ~0.5 mile from my destination I started to hear a rhythmic squeal, that I first thought was a slipping serpentine belt or idler pulley getting noisy or something. In my appointment I was searching up the symptoms and finding serpentine belt TSB and idler pulley TSB and thought that was probably it.

When I came out, I popped the hood, started the truck, and then the squeal wasn't just a squeal anymore it was a knock. Shut it off, checked the oil (which still looked brand new). Called the dealer which happened to be right next door, they asked if I could drive it, I could not the second I tried the pedal had 0 power. Shut it off, towed.

Got the word today, "internal bearing failure" new engine ordered. What the F, covered under warranty (maybe since it's a CPO, the 100k limited powertrain warranty)

Now, they asked when the last time I had an oil change was which I told them was ~40,318 (it has 42k-ish on it now). But it's DIY and it's self-service so I hope they don't try to use that to deny the claim or something. The service guy checked the oil when it was towed in after starting it for a second, seemed happy with it so I know the level/condition was good. I always use the OEM filters. I mean I'm sure they could examine the internals of the engine and see its golden without varnish and things from the regular oil changes, run an oil analysis and see it's the right specs, etc. Just hope it doesnt lead to any issues with the warranty claim. Didn't sound like it but who knows.

I just, don't get how this could happen. I'd think an oil pump failure or something but there were no lights on the dash whatsoever (no oil pressure low, oil level low, check engine, etc.)

Anyway, apparently a new engine is ordered and i'm not sure how long that will take. No idea how there could be a bearing failure if oil pressure and levels and things are good, all I could think is in its first 22k miles of life it may have been neglected or something causing premature wear.

 

Super unfortunate, but thank goodness its under warranty.

Another one to add to the list @ColoradoTJ

 

I always rip the scan area off the filter box and mark the mileage and date down when I do oil changes. Also mark it in my book and put the date and mileage on the filter with paint marker.

Only OEM filters from Toyota so they can check to see if I bought them from someplace ''legit'' instead of off line at ''bobs mower blades, septic tanks and oil filters.''

 

No system is perfect and shit happens. There's not always a smoking gun.

 

I don’t do any of that, used to mark the filters but in these they are just the cartridges being replaced.

I use the car fax care app or whatever and add all my logs there with receipts.

im confident any analysis would find the oil is right specs and changed when I said it was and the filter is oem, but I’ll be worried about it until I’m driving it away

im assuming the computer logs oil pressure and level issues too, of which I saw none on the dash at least.

I can’t imagine any reason it would spin a bearing other than MFG defect or severe neglect in the 22k miles before I owned it.

 

You can log DIY maintenance on the Toyota Owners site. And check there to see if there are any records of maintenance prior to when you owned it.

 

Added my logs - it had oil changes at 8k, 11k, and 17k before I owned it according to the logs. 22k one when I bought it isn’t on Toyota site but is on carfax site. From dealer inspection things when they took the trade I’m guessing.

 

You could fill it with walmart oil, drive it 42k miles without changing the oil, and still expect there to be no crank bearing failure. It’s not good for it, but shouldn’t cause a major failure in 42k miles. (Caveat: I have every tried it.)

This is more likely a manufacturing or assembly defect. For every N number parts, 1 will be defective. Quality control is not perfect.

In any case, I’m sorry you are one of the unlucky ones. It will all work out.

 

Beware the smoking engine more than the smoking gun

--Albert Einstein

 

As mentioned, poor luck on the assembly line more likely. That’s why a warranty exists. Every tens of thousands of these pumped out there’s one or two engines that won’t make it to 60k with oil changes alone.

They would have to go through extensive efforts to prove any neglect to deny the warranty. You’ll get it back and hopefully good as new. Keep up the maintenance and save those receipts.

 

Wow, sub'd. Do you really get a brand new engine, or used or rebuilt? Keep us posted on the process from now until fixed.

 

Sorry to hear this. However any mass produced vehicle can potentially be an issue. Unfortunately it was you this time. We are all empathetic as this could happen to any one of us.

Sounds like warranty has you covered. New engine is just a short block with your old heads.

keep us posted.

 

New short block anyway, though it’d be nice to get a new long block

I’m not sure how long this process will take - I assume the bulk of it will be waiting for the new block to be delivered.

 

Why do we still perpetuate the lie that Toyota OEM filters are good? They're not even acceptable, unless you change your oil every 3k miles. My apologies to the fanbois, but 50% efficiency @ 20u is a big fat NOPE.

 

Are you claiming that OEM Toyota Denso-made oil filters are responsible for OP's engine blowing up? I don't see the logic behind that assertion. I, and hundreds of thousands of other Tacoma owners, have been using OEM filters with no issue. I'm all for the "fram bad, wix good" debate, but there's absolutely no problem with running OE filters.

 

Are we talking regular orange box Fram, or synthetic long OCI Fram? Original Wix or re-boxed Champion Labs Wix....

 

Don't wanna totally jack this thread for OP, but generally it's that the regular orange box Fram filters are terrible and wix are generally good.

 

I like wix.

OP, sorry for your luck but seens to be handled better by your dealer than some peoples posts I've read.

 

I don’t really have a dealer in this area since I just moved out here, just towed it there since it was right down the road from where it happened. Pleasantly surprised though! They gave me a loaner once it was towed in, then called and said they ordered a new engine under warranty the next day. I’ll still be skeptical it could be this easy until I’m driving away though

And filters yea, OEM should be just fine for my light duty midsize truck pavement stuff I do at 5-6k change intervals - if not well that’s a bigger problem.