Tilton Engineering: Hydraulic Release Bearing Conversion Kits (Adapted for +2005 6MT Tacomas)

When I redid my O ring on the CM the bearing was pretty crusty. I cleaned it with brake fluid and put a dab of lithium grease in it. I wasn’t too stoked about putting any grease near my clutch but figured a minute amount wouldn’t hurt. I think those bearings end up not gliding around like they should, gum up and destroy the seal. I wasted probably 12hrs of my life dealing with that POS CM bearing. Next time I’ll probably do one of these Tilton bearings. A guy I know put one in his F-150 and hasn’t had any issues. CM bearing is probably more of a race car thing that gets tore down every weekend and driven 8 miles its entire lifetime.

 

there was a guy on here who talked about carefully injecting some grease to his stock TOB

so maybe it’s fine
I agree. Excess grease would spin out into the clutch.

honestly don’t know what kind of bearing CM uses. Didn’t take mine apart any further than it would easily come apart bare handed.

hopefully it’s sealed
Or if a soak in the right grease that’s not too thin
Maybe a quick spin on a shaft like a lathe or something to get any excess flung off with centrifugal force

or just wiping it so it’s not dripping

 

Long and rambling. Maybe several beers with the tacos

 

@TacoTuesday1 @Shadowhunter @BillDaCat8 @HellsWells

So I have the metal master. I now recall taking it in to have Toyota do the TSB on it about a year into owning it. Yes I have dogs.

I'm adding images here of it along with the reservoir

 

I still think it's something to do with the CM throwout bearing and possibly even my URD clutch and resurfaced flywheel.. combo = dog shit pile

 

Hey Brandon. Yes I am. RC62F kits are in stock and new material for RA60F kits is on the way.

Your fluid is quite dirty looking. Does the level go down? If there aren't any leaks around the truck for contamination to work it's way back up I'd guess that something is degrading on the inside.

 

I mean I’d hope resurface is fine. Supposedly enough meat to do that.

I have URD heavy flywheel but imagine it’s the same thickness just heavier maybe wider as the specs kinda have to be the specs

easiest thing you can do is try throwing pressure bleed at it. And adjust pedal bite rod.

Trying little stuff is easier faster cheaper than going straight to big stuff like remove trans.

____
Folks with tilton
How do you like the feel, is it any different from CM
Why not URD bearing?
With how the CM looks I don’t even know if they just rebranded a Tilton and made a kit out of it…

with FULL hydraulic it seems not enough feedback
Did a clutch test. E brake on 4th gear force it to stall. It wasn’t even jerky…
That’s one advertised “benefit” of hydro: smooth and gentle engagement
but I don’t see the point if it takes away feedback from the driver and ability to control

 

@Kasbien, I don't really ever see the level drop. Right now I think it's the lowest I have seen it though. I'll be taking it to my brother in law in the next few days or so so he can do exactly what @TacoTuesday1 calls out. Pressure bleed and adjust the pedal first before cracking anything open. I've debated going back to oem with fork again and maybe URD bearing. I wish I could see more feedback on the Tilton before jumping that route, but I might. Just depends on what he finds I guess.

Tacotuesday how do you like the heavy flywheel?

 

ehhh
i mean it's news you already had the master done and it's metal
and sounds like recent. I'd expect it to still be fine

if you pressure bleed it, which is good. Check out Motive. IDK what adapter. Mine I rigged it to use a Power Probe BA10 adapter but it's not the cheapest adapter. Some have even made their own.
Only ever used just regular DOT4. Anywhere from 10-20psi. You can always check the manual. More is usually better the only risk is avoid rupturing a weak old reservoir from high pressure.

For example. German cars say go up to 30psi to bleed ABS, which is fine if they're new. But if they're old, that resi is gonna bust.

folks have their own techniques on what works in terms of fluid flow rate coming out, how much fluid to use, how far open to turn the screw.
Some folks even tap on shit with a mallet to "free and dislodge" air bubbles, though I've never gone that far.

wouldn't hurt for any of us, including myself, to reread the CM install intructions. Obviously whenever during initial install sometimes there can be a rush to just get the shit done before the doors close.

I kinda wish I tried URD instead of CM. Tilton wasn't really a thing at the time. Oh well too late.

Me personally I try to do my pedal adjustments hot. I figure at operating temp is where the truck drives. It can change. So I try to do it hot cold. I think it does change. DOT4 viscosity.
Speaking of, it might be even better to use a DOT4 LV. Low Viscosity. Some cars require that.
But regular DOT4 is just what I already had so that's why I used that. Can be more noticeable depending on temp environment location of truck.

It's not guaranteed but what options do you have and what's cheaper
8hr trans R&R
or bleed
might be due for a fluid replacement anyway, I know mine probably is.

another aspect is, and Tilton is particular about certain models
priming the pedal, preloading it, to bleed
with my CM I never did because I figure, what's the difference between pressure from my foot or pressure from a bleed, and they don't state anything about it.

How's the Heavy flywheel? I like it. It's smoother. Easier in traffic. Issue was cost
new issue is availability it's not on the website anymore
so if this thing ever does go out, not sure what I would do. Hopefully it doesn't or at least not for a long time, or maybe be machineable in such event
I would hope a non heavy flywheel would still work, as they're much cheaper
though I do like the idea behind a stronger clutch, stronger pressure plate with more clamping force
as something that can barely handle stock on a truck that wheels and tows doesn't make sense to me

my old stock clutch didn't like towing, BUT had I done 2LO mod (or twin stick) could've prevented that.
Especially with the added strength of a HydroTOB, my Stage 2 already doesn't feel stiff at all (like it might with a regular TOB) so I can't imagine stock
but that's URD with URD, stage 2 with Heavy
I went with that because they told me stage 2 is better for my use case including wheeling, and said higher like stage 3 or hybrid with ceramic pucks is more for only on/off on a high power street only truck something like a supercharged Xrunner going to drift, track, etc. where there won't be slip introduced.

I didn't install my CM with any shims. Didn't come with any. They said it's not needed. Regarding any air gap I just look at it working with the shield off
Honestly I think when I took out my trans just to put the clutch/FW (re-used the CM) I did see some wear on it I wasn't excited about. Added some grease not the fanciest grease. There is fancy shit out there like DuPont toxic KryTox used for NASA, costs more
didn't have a seal didn't put a new one, only took the trans out to change clutch and flywheel

I guess you could ask CM what they think
I really hope everything is installed properly and have no reason to think otherwise. I guess you can look as much as you can without taking it out first. Behind the cover etc.
And make sure the shifter ball socket is good.

Rumor has it these RA60F's can have other issues, that earlier versions they failed to blue loctite bolts holding on the reverse fork from factory. However I've only heard of someone actually experiencing that at most one case. And that could depend on year, early vs. late.
That's a whole other ballgame. Rebuilding trans, parts kit, press, puller, FSM
vs clutch things

 

also, smooth shifting
make sure the trans fluid is good. Right level, good quality.

and, what if it's something else
hopefully it is

with age and miles, anything else can go
like what if you have a diff problem. What if you've got an issue going on with the propshaft. U joints. etc.
Cheaper and easier to deal with.

I need to check if my front shaft needs anything. Maybe. I just grease it.
But the main shaft? Had a shop rebuilt it. Carrier bearing, spider u joints, balancing
wasn't that expensive.
Already did slip yoke grease. Only mistake was orientation. It's stock style. Folks say that orientation can be changed for better off road clearance and less vibes. Too late now.

I could technically take my front shaft off, have it rebuilt. Drive around in 2HI. Again, way cheaper and easier than pulling a trans.
Hoping it's cheap. Front shaft is small. Only 2 joints. No carrier bearing.

or...what else is rotating. And old. And changes with RPM
all of the spinny circles on the front of the motor. Pulleys etc.

 

What in steam of consciousness-tarnation am I trying to read here?!?!

Is this the AI?

 

@findingthingsout just a bunch a JIBBA JABBA

 

dont

 

The AI has become self aware. You can see it in the change of communication. How quickly it adapts is most impressive.



Bye.

 

How would you describe the color red to a blind person?

 

If they sat in a 16-23 they already know

 

hey @Kasbien @BillDaCat8 - When I search for either 60-612 or 62-6122 it provides multiple results (seen below)



===========================================================
am I supposed to be looking at this HRB 6000 series below?




with that said ive also highlighted parts above that look to be called out separately on the pdf.

is this the same hrb bleeder screw?


and is this earl adapter 989544ERL similar?


thanks guys, I just want to make sure im buying the right parts before stuff arrives and its all wrong

 

Links in the text…

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...utch-system-shenanigans.698464/#post-24723723

 

Here’s a tip
Don’t make the same mistake I made

figure out the trans breather valve size
Maybe find one that’s also two way in and out

and have that on hand ready to replace when the trans is out. Cheap. I garuntee they’re all clogged.

problem is it’s short low down nestled atop the bellhousing and huge PITA to get to otherwise.
I wish at the time I replaced my valve like I did all the other ones and extended it higher.
As having high tail diff breather but low trans breather atop bellhousing doesn’t make sense.

dont know if i can get to it with the trans back in running and driving

went through the same thing with diff valves. Had to see what dealer had that was two way which sounds better. As some of the valves are only one way. If there’s expand and contract with temps and cooling I don’t see the point of a one way or why they even make it.