Long Travel BS Thread

I orginally had Wicked creation spec coilovers and ended up with a DK kit. WC has a 2" longer rod end and 16" 650"... doesn't work with DK kit, sat at full droop after install. DK helped me out, had me go to a 1" rod end and the 550lb. Rides good on road and off road. havnt noticed any excessive sway without sway bars.

 

I’m not sure. I pulled the adapter off the master since it was designed for the Tacoma boosted

 

Have you seen this thread ?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/my-2006-tacoma-brake-upgrade-edited.652471/

Are you sure that you have the correct year model range on the tundra booster ?

 

Yeah I read through the whole thing. I have the correct booster. I got the extension rod for the pedal linkage and that fit perfect.

my MC is supposedly a sequoia MC, from sos performance. I bought it to go on my Tacoma booster when I did the disc conversion. I took it off the Tacoma booster, removed the adapter plate, removed the rod adapter, and bolted it to the tundra booster and here we are

 

I have the same SOS set up too and i’ve been stock piling the parts for the tundra booster swap too so i’m really curious what the issue is ? From what you are describing it seems like your master is not the right one because it sounds like the rod is not plunging into the master enough ?

@DG92071 do you have any insight ?

 

The last 1/4” of travel of the pedal feels like a normal pedal but everything else Is just loose. I think you’re right.

 

550x16 or 18?

 

Took @Happysmiley advice to heart and decided to start moving things around. Already picked up over an inch of travel and no more jacked up shackle angle.

We aren’t done yet. But every aspect of this kit is improving with each thing we do.

The entire problem was the geometry of this kit try’s to stretch the leafs beyond their intended “flat” length. When this happens they were trying to wrap up. I can no longer see the wave in the spring like I could before. But there is more to be had. And we’re going to get all of it.

 

Still going through with the DMZ kit, or staying with JD?

 

Depends on what comes up with the next couple of adjustments. Honestly, I got fed up with being told I had it all wrong with this kit and it’s almost a spite thing right now.

 

16

 

did you start with center

did you start with centering the axle back at OE wheel base ?

 

Nope. That’s next. Moved my rear hanger forward over 2”. Once I slide the front hanger back an inch or so it’s all going to be as it should. And it will actually cycle what was advertised.

 

The interesting part in all of this, when we were cycling the original geometry today just shy of my bump stop (at extension) the rear end was starting to come off of my jack stands.

That’s when my focus shifted a little bit to find out what was up. And per Happysmiley, that 57” measurement from front pivot to upper shackle pivot is indeed, way the eff off. It’s the entire problem with the kit. The springs go into a bind before they start to snap negative. And yes, they are going negative before the bump. A string line proved this.

The closer I get that spread to 53” the closer I get to fully collapsing my bumps with zero negative arch or bind.

At this point, all of my thoughts are not just valid. But flat proven.

Pivot to pivot plus shackle length. If that number is greater than the 62-63” range, you have the same exact issue. All there is to it.

 

so what is the measurement that you are saying it should be ie: in a straight line from front center of the front hangar bolt to the center of the rear hangar bolt ? ie: take the shackle out of the equation

 

From shackle hanger to front hanger it should fall in the 53-54” range. JD geometry was 57” front pivot to top hole and 56.625 front pivot to lower hole.

 

i’m really curious to have some other guys with the kit check that same measurement and report their #’s from those two fixed points

 

I’d love to hear it. Because I’m betting it’s the same. Or damn close.

I should note. This is center to center on the bolts. It took two of us to be accurate within probably 1/16 or so.

 

I wish I had measured what I did or even took a pic, but of course I didnt. But the below circled part I machined shorter to fix the problem you are having. No idea how short though...pretty sure i put the M/C in and out a few times till I got it right.

 

I’m betting the opposite & I’ll Venmo you a cold crisp US $1 ( minus fees ) if I’m wrong

The reason I say that is because you had that crazy wheelbase variance and noone else has that prob. Just look at JD’s insta posts none of the spring under trucks appear to have the off center rear end …you can’t ignore that massive variable

So, either your hangars were in the wrong spot or your leaf pack is different