Light Bar Installation with Aftermarket Switch

I'm running into an issue when connecting a light bar. Here is the current connection.


Aftermarket switch wiring instruction



With current wiring, the switch illuminates; however, no power to the light bar. As you can also see the switch was illuminating without the key in the ignition (idk how this happened. My goal is to tap it into the fuse slot and expect the switch to illuminate when the key is in the ignition).

I also tried a different permutation by connecting the aftermarket red wire to the fuse slot and the aftermarket yellow wire to yellow with the wiring harness, but still no power. The only difference is the switch illuminates the top rocket icon instead.

In addition, I tested the light bar by tapping it to the battery and it worked fine. I also tested the wiring harness using the on-off switch that came with the wiring harness and it worked; therefore, I can eliminate those factors to narrow it down and would assume something wrong with the switch itself so I ordered another switch to see.


Any other suggestions to fix this guys? Thank you

 

well, I have my GMRS Radio tapped into my Power outlet and at the fuse panel its hot, but not at the outlet so there might be part of your issue

 

How about the view and instructions to the light bar?

 

It doesn’t come with instruction. But this is what they have on Amazon. When using the switch that came with the harness it works fine (image below)

 

Since you haven’t really stated what wires you hooked into, here’s how I read it:

“12 volt switched power” needs to connect to an accessory + wire, not a constant power as you have. This is a wire that only has power with the key turned to accessory.
“Relay” should be going to your relay that actually powers the light. You shouldn’t connect your light bar directly to your switch. The amps may be too high and you may burn out your switch.

“Dash lights” connects to your illumination wire.

If you are hooking up to a relay, are you sure that’s wired properly?

 

Show us a picture of the wiring to the original switch you are substituting.

 

Does it look similar?:

Harness of light bar shares the fuse and has dual and triple wires at the relay...

 

I’m at work. This is what goes where. I’m trying to paint a picture for you guys to have a better visualization. I’ll post pictures of the other switch when I make it home. @caribe makaira @EMR

 

Cap/insulate red.
Solid Green - grab from nearby dash switch.
Green with White stripe also. These are dash illumination.
Both lamps on switch will dim with dash illumination.

 

Based on your picture, this is how I understand it. The setup in the image below is fine and all I need is:

Green (built-in fuse) in switch to fuse tap
Red in switch to yellow in wiring harness

Not used or insulate these wires
Black in wiring harness & switch
Red in wiring harness

 

Black on switch requires tap to dash illumination (Green with White stripe) so yo don't get always off or always on on the switch lamps.
Since you won't be using the always fused hot wire (red) of the harness, you need to provide fused power (cigarette tap) to send to harness relay on yellow wire.

 

Would you mind to draw it out for me which wires go where lol. I’m really not good when it comes to wiring.

 

Double check your relay connections. I believe you have your pins 85 and 86 reversed.



Also for the switch, green is fused power, red goes to relay pin 86, yellow connects to your dash lights that turn on when your headlights turn on (illuminatation) and black is ground.

 

@EMR Unless the relay (highly doubtful since it's not written on it) has a diode on the coil there is no issue with wire placement. 86 to 85 or 85 to 86 is same.
Also see drawing for wire placement. You are repeating info...

 

This is how the wiring harness switch look like.

 

The reason why you have constant power to your switch is because you have it connected directly to your battery in your SPDT harness. You even have that pointed out in your picture. From what you've posted for the switch diagram, Green should be +12v switched (aka ignition on), Red leads to your SPDT relay as the trigger (pin 86 or 85), Yellow is your dash light (illumination wire), and black is ground. You should not have a direct connection from your battery to the switch.

Follow @EMR diagram for the relay. (pin 85 and 86 are interchangeable unless you have one with a diode)

• 87 - 12v OUTPUT to your device (lights)
• 30 - 12v fused direct to your battery
• 86 - Trigger wire (red wire from your switch)
• 85 - Ground

Switch

• Green - +12v ign (fuse tap inside your cabin off radio or whatever)
• Red - Pin 86 on your relay - this triggers your relay to provide power to your lights.
• Yellow - Illumination wire off your radio or rheostat
• Black - Ground - anywhere with metal contact. I use a bolt behind the kick panel for my electronics. Make sure it connects direct to a metal part of your truck cab. Alternatively, wire tap it to pin 85.