Crunchy Taco? - 1st gen on 35s BS

Depending on how far I'm wandering I carry one or two now that I'm on 35s.

I probably wouldn't have dropped money on the gzilla if I hadn't seen it work first hand on the trail. it is definitely in the gimmick tool category but it is pretty damn convenient lol

 

Yesterday I tore into the passenger side a bit. My inner TRE was bent and very loose and the outer was also pretty trashed. Installed Moog 555s and a secondhand durobump. I might go ahead and swap my upper and lower LBJ for good measure since I'm in the area.

 

some updates

Redid the front TREs, ball joints, and added energy bumps as a holdover (I misplaced one of my durobumps and haven't found it yet).

Spent some time narrowing down issues in the front and realized my outer TRE were limiting down travel and binding. I added limit straps to both sides in hopes that it keeps me from trashing more TREs. It also aught to help keep me from breaking CVs when drooped out...

Additionally, I added KPO alignment octagons and whiteline bushings when I redid the steering. the truck handles better than it ever has in the 10+ years I've owned it.




Had plans for a longer spring wheeling trip but had to cut it shorter this time. met up with a buddy and ran fins before we parted ways and I ran Poison Spider, Where Eagles Dare, Golden Spike, and Gold Bar Rim as well as stopping by Gemini Bridges to walk out to the arches there. not a lot in the way of pics but it was a great trip

 

That's a notable solo run

 

Not all ITRs are created equal. Quality ones should not be limiting droop.

 

the outer was what's binding. another 1/8" past that point and the upper ball joint would bind up too. I committed the sin of buying Moog joints over OEM. it's definitely not perfect but I am also not planning on putting any money into aftermarket uppers when it gets down the trail just fine as it sits even if it's not optimized.

I'm still squirreling away parts for a solid axle swap so it just needs to hold up another year or two (famous last words I know )

 

I've had better luck with Moog than oem. Nothing I've found wrong with them.

 

i know Moog is hotly contested in the 1st Gen forum but I like being able to grease them after every trip. haven't had a catastrophic failure yet

 

funny you should mention that, it's a 20/20 truck. looks good from 20 feet or 20mph


In the coming weeks I'm planning to redo the paint. I've already started dealing with the bondo the PO left me knocked off all of the most loose stuff, need to grab a heatgun to remove the rest. since the truck is a wheeling rig I'm not too worried about having clean body lines, I think fresh paint over a wrinkled body will look better than cracking bondo lol

 

poked at it a bit with a heat gun and putty knife. glad I didn't just treat the visible issues and bondo over it again as there are other spots festering behind the bondo. once the majority is off I'll wire wheel it, fill the holes, and give it a rustoleum rebuild but I still have a ways to go before then. they laid it on thiiiick

 

Or you could just make it all go away... https://risingsun4x4club.org/xf/threads/step-by-step-bed-bob-12.10220/

 

Or, just get rid of the bed

 

it has been a thought in the past....

 

bring your bender and a couple sticks of tube

 

Sure just give me one of your trucks and we'll get it done

 

Anyone in here running 35X11.5 R17s? Im thinking of moving to these from my existing 315x75 16s. I don't necessarily want to move up to the 17" wheel and the consequently smaller sidewall, but I would appreciate the narrower width.
Kinda looking at the new Falken RTs.

Thoughts from any other 1st gen guys?

 

This is a member's build thread

 

I believe @Squeaky Penguin and @jubei have run narrower 35" options and maybe can fill you in.

The narrower tire will spare you some rubbing on the frame depending on your wheel setup but you will still experience rubbing on the pinch weld if you haven't tubbed yet.