Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

Half an inch more rubbing lmao

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/C4yqfqNyKEa/
I think he is making a rear kit too

 

So they are on...I don't know how to read alignment sheet to see if it's correct tbh...they are rubbing on the cab mount on passager side normal driving

4.75 backset plus 5 offset with 1.25 spidertrax 315/70/17

Any suggestions without new wheels?

 

A better cab mount chop? That looks pretty mild alot of the ones I see around here have more angle on it to help out.

 

hmm yea ok maybe, it kinda does look like the passenger side is less angled than the drivers side now that I look at it closer

 

I'm not sure what you are asking about your alignment sheet. If you are asking if your alignment is within spec I can tell you that the alignment sheet shows a range of values and if your measurement is in that range it is considered "correct" with some caveats.

If you are asking if your alignment sheet shows why your tires are rubbing, then I think you are barking up the wrong tree. The alignment measurements have very little to do with tire clearance. Tire clearance (on a taco) is usually a function of how forward the wheel and alignment sheets don't contain that information.

Many people equate increased caster with increased rear tire clearance, but that is often a misconception. Increased caster adjusted by moving the LCA forward will increase rear tire clearance, however increased caster by moving the UCA backwards reduces rear tire clearance.

 

I was more just wondering if it is in line with what others were seeing for alignment #'s as I am clueless when it comes to alignment, it was really rubbing on passenger side before he set it to E on the SPC uppers and pulled the tire forward and did the alignment, he mentioned the caster wasnt really in spec.

 

I think you are overthinking it. If your alignment measurement is within the accepted range, it is generally fine.

Also, do not equate alignment measurements with tire rubbing. They are two different subjects, albeit alignment adjustments on the LCA can be used to increase tire clearance by moving the wheel forwards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAYGdcKSA3o

 

Starting the long read of this thread. After deciding a 4th gen hybrid max is out of my price range, I think I’ll upgrade my 3rd gen more. I’m close to needing new tires, currently running 255/85/16s but really like the look and idea of 35s.

I have some of the basic framework done for fitting 35s, 16” wheels with -12 offset, a lift, front bump stops (seems a touchy subject in some of the pages I’ve been through), spc uppers and cmc plates

I’d also like to regear to 5.29 and upgrade brakes and rotors.

Im not gonna ask any dumb questions yet since things I’ve search all have been asked and answered, several times.

Just stopping by and saying hi while I read everything


And unfortunately I don’t go off road as much as I’d like. Maybe once or twice a year including beach driving, so I guess it’ll mainly be looks with a little off roading…

 

hyrule_trd says "I have some of the basic framework done for fitting 35s".....

I am nearly the same position you're in, I have the same set up but running 285/75/16's that barely clear. I have also revisited this thread from time to time. I keep hoping it gets easier as more people do it and new/different tires become available. But it just doesn't seem to be the case.

I had 35's on my last truck and miss them terribly. I'm on the cusp of a $3-4,000 outlay for full skids, rear bumper (I broke mine), and sliders to protect and gain some exit angle. That's a chunk of money for stuff I never needed with 35's. And, if I want 35's I'm looking at tires (of course) and gears, front end work, bump stops etc. Easily another $5K to change the truck irreparably and make it something it was never intended to be. So...that's $alot! No disrespect to JoeCOVA and this well done thread, I'm not sure I can commit to this.

Now I'm eyeing the Jeep Gladiator truck
My last truck with 35's was a Dodge1500 and all I had to do was a leveling kit and 1.5" blocks on the rear leafs. Done. Now I understand the same is true for the Jeep trucks and it's tempting.

My dilemma is:
Keep my truck w/33's and some armor, pick more reasonable lines and know it's limitations? And, its' soooooo reliable. That's why I bought it anyway. This seems to be the rational choice.

Or,

Go with the Jeep? Big tires easily, more power and surely better mileage. But I'm afraid of the OEM quality and frequent repairs/drivability issues. But, I don't hear a lot of complaints.

Don't hate me, just trying to be objective.

 

This thread was a massive help to me for going to 35s. The one thing I will add is fender cutting. Perhaps I didn’t read enough on the subject but fitting liners afterwards can be challenging. In the end I went with c4s kit. It’s worth every penny.

The rear is bit more difficult. If you’re reading this and are planning on cutting, consider leaving tabs on the sheet metal to receive fender liners.

To make 35s work I did the drt cab mount relocation brackets and their spindle gussets. Along with a fair amount of wheel well bashing.

Alignments are another whole thing. I’ve learned how to do them myself to get close enough. I’ve tried a few so called alignment shops with no luck. Unless you have an offroad shop nearby most places won’t do it properly.

To balance I used beads. They work great for oversized tires. No shaking at all.

 

That is quite the dilemma. Have you drive the jeep yet? Might need to spend time on those forums to see. Then there is the whole jeep wave and ducks that you’d have to deal with… fitting 35s on your Tacoma might just be easier

Could a better alignment help you out some? Or raising your lift, if possible (not that it’ll help too much)?

It’s really a tough choice and I’m honestly concerned about getting them and then not figuring out how to get them to fit and not rub much. The truck will still be my “daily driver” but it’s only 1 or 2 days per week that might be a 140-300 miles commute.

I’ll have to check out the c4s kit and balance beads. I’ve only read a few horror stories about them and didn’t look into them any more.

Thanks for the advice!

 

hyrule_trd "Then there is the whole jeep wave and ducks that you’d have to deal with…"


Well, autocorrect on my phone includes a lot of "ducks" in my texts already so, maybe it's meant to be?

Haven't driven a Jeep since '07 and I wasn't impressed then.

 

Are SPC's (and their adjustability) still the way to go? It seems like most on this thread running 35's are on SPCs set to E with alignment cams adjusted accordingly.

 

Some camber adjustability seems key, but SPC isn’t the only brand to offer it I don’t think.

Also there are some LCA options on the market that allow the wheel to be moved forward.

https://www.drt-fabrication.com/product/btf-high-caster-lca

 

I run the BTF Lowers + Taco Tabs set to max caster with Camburg Uppers and the DRT cab mount relocate (with lots of fender trimming and cutting/massaging, etc) and no issues to report as of yet. No rubbing when wheeling, even when cranked and stuffed and or hanging a tire. no binding anywhere either.

 

Considering BTF lowers for additional clearance

 

For reference..

 

Oh dammit....