Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Interesting, I can see your point. Especially with the JD kit & JD steering all with no bushings the suspension and steering are not flexing / spreading outward. I've been having a hell of a time finding the correct ( on road ) tire PSI to avoid bad tire wear ie: cupping and I wonder if part of my problem is the little bit of toe ?

 

Has nothing to do with racing or anything else. I have access to a rack any time I want/need. I’ve played with alignment a ton. It’s what felt best to me. Driver preference is a thing too, you know.

 

If you have the slide rack, you have over 3” of bump steer and that’s probably what’s causing the cupping. Because I also had cupping at my numbers.

 

I definitely don't feel it is any worse than my last kit ( Solo w/ stock rack config ) maybe the TC pump combats the feedback ?

 

Hard to say. Didn’t notice it myself. Though I do believe it played some part in my Clevis failures as at full bump it’s 2” in. Full droop is 1” out.

 

Im currently working on Solo's Personal Raptor. The Boss is close friends with them so we get all of their stuff. They've been hounding me to put their kit on my junk and were pretty disappointed when I said I'm doing all JD stuff lmao.

 

So I do DD my truck but it’s only 5miles to work. However I do more miles in the weekend to campsites or events. It’s been weird skittish before the tundra rack. Was fine for a while then started getting weird. I thought I finally sheared off a tooth or something in the stock rack.
I can post the sheet of alignment i did after the LT install and it worked good. But when I took it back for toe alignment after the rack. Figured if it’s locked out nothing should move. Numbers were off. Caster went up, camber went way in.
Something moved or yea maybe the LCA uni went out? Seems quick for “sealed” units though. Have maybe 20k on them with 5-8k of that actual rough use.

 

Oh I did obviously change the EMF for uniballs which are only months old and like 2k miles. They did fit snug. Aka used a dead blow to knock em in.

 

The rear pivot sees the most abuse. Should be able to stick a bar in there to see if you get any movement from them

 

anyone know a rattle can that matches the grey paint on the UCAs? my tires have rubbed off quite a bit of the finish

 

how is your tire rubbing the uca ?

 

tires are too big (35x12.5) and I need to get some spacers to make it stop rubbing the UCA

 

but it could also be alignment problems, a very big motorcycle crashed into my truck and hit a tire. been trying to sort out that mess for a while.

 

After my LCA ball joint failed I contacted JD. They are local to me so I took them both my LCA and UCA’s and had them install Uniball for both. There was a charge for the UCA’s

 

Catastrophic failure?

 

Yessir

 

Godamn. I gotta get em swapped out

 

I heard a pretty decent rub at full bump on my 35s this afternoon despite my 2.25 LT, pivot and inner fenders… thought I’d never hear that sound again but that’s tomorrows problem, I suppose.

 

Finding out the hard way...make sure you double check your alignements when it comes out of a shop...trying to replace oem LCA since balljoints are finally giving out.
Can't even get the rear cam bolts out anymore, the shank of the bolt spun a good 90° past the shank of the washer, both sides...

There's hard wheeling...and hard wheeling, most on here do more than what i do and i've never seen it happen to any of you. I highly suspect the shop used air tools to tighten it all together.

Working w/Overland Outfitters now to get replacement hardware as soon as possible.
Glad I do everything else myself, but i guess i'll have to eye ball alignement better soon lol.