TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

What the heck is a CPS? Child Protection Services?

 

I’m running 285/75r17 which is close to 34x12.5. You can see my mpg in my fuelly but honestly it depends on how I drive it. Short trips to work every day I’m getting like 13-15. If I’m cruising on the highway I can get 17-18. Probably better if I wasn’t going 70-80

 

Crankshaft position sensor

 

Yeah I figured the 34" would be pretty close to my current 255/75/R17 where I see similar mpg to yours. I'd need a BMC to safely fit the 35's so can't make that jump and gears and tires and be allowed back inside house all at same time.

 

That would be CKP then my man. The camshaft position sensor would be CMP, but nowhere in any technical manual is the verbiage ever referred to as CPS.

The (3rd) Turd Gen crew is high off the outgassing from their interior adhesives because I don't know when or why they ever invented that acronym. Lol.

 

hey man we were talking about crankshaft sensors so i just shortened it but good to know its a ckp

 

I thought about regearing but on the road I don’t really need to. Off road sometimes I do wish I had lower gearing but for what I use my truck for it’s good enough with the blower on there. Lately I’ve been thinking about going down a size but it’s a tough call. I did all the work to fit these and they still rub a little but it wouldn’t feel right if I went to a 33. I’d love to do a 35 but I know with the added rotational mass my mpg would dip even more

 

i did for a while. almost a year id say and it was fine. i think having the 6spd manual helps in that department. makes it more driveable than the auto i would say. i was running 35x12.50 Goodyear MT/R with kevlar. i changed to 4.56 gears since then and my MPG is probably down slightly, but i dont really remember. its been 10 years since i changed over. the 4.56 makes it like driving stock again tho. dont have to ride out each gear longer

 

I just did the upgrade from 3.73 to 4.56 gears. In fact, the 500 mile break-in gear oil change was done yesterday.

I've been using those 35x10.5x17 skinnies with the blower and stock gears for the last 4-5 years. Doing 90% city driving in the South Bay Area NorCal.

I didn't think I was missing anything until the upgrade to a lower gearset. The change is lack of need for the AT to downshift as much and the instant acceleration in sub 2k rpm range in all gears. My truck kind of "lifts" the front end on hard acceleration...whereas it was less pronounced with the 3.73. And I haven't actually gone to Mexico yet with the new gears.

Don't think I've put enough hwy miles on to determine if the higher rpms at ~70-80mph are noticeable or bothersome.

Inconclusive if mpgs are affected yet. I usually avg 12ish mpgs.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...igo-ink-pearl-8p4.757165/page-7#post-29718826

 

Mine are exactly this -- 315's, supercharged, stock gears, auto trans, 2wd. I also have fiberglass but still have the OEM front bumper.
My MPGs are as low as 13-15 if all city driving, but I can get about 17 and change if I cruise at 65-70mph on a road trip.
It's very doable I think, but I never am a speed demon on the road. In fact it's kinda nice to settle in at a hair under 2K rpms when going 70 on flatter freeways.
Hills the truck will obviously jump to 4th at most inclines.

 

Hear, hear. Wish there were definitive options for aftermarket cats that could solve the problem but I hear nothing lasts. I was down to try the Gesi carb ones but heard those were pulled from the line up.

This was what I was thinking. I haven't changed oil in a while, maybe it is gunked up. Didn't want to go through it twice to check so I'll replace it when I do the pulleys this next round.

Sounds worse than mine which is fine on start up. Only upon driving does the cat piss smell start creeping.. don't know if that's a sign of bad cats or tuning but some part is not processing. I feel like my track car with no cats, smelling like straight gas/exhaust fumes is better than these little scam cans

 

cat piss?? Oh boy! I wonder if a cat peed on your truck some where. Good luck getting that smell out haha. My old work truck would smell like cat piss only when it rained (in the cab). I'm not sure if that's how bad converts smell, it also has bad cats (1grfe of course) and it just smells like nasty fuel.

 

It washes off, I swear!! If only... it's similar to a mix of ammonia and gas.

"Short Answer:
Toyota uses a Three Way Catalytic (TWC) converter. This style (not a toyota problem) has created a new problem for emissions that was unexpected for the previous Two Way Cat Converter. These Cats combined with the improved low sulfur gasoline in certain conditions have been shown to produce Ammonia from atmospheric NO, NO2,NO3 (Herein listed as NOx) entering the Cat Converter."

"Effect of low-sulfur fuels upon NH3 and N2O emission during operation of commercial three-way catalytic converters"

Authors:
Isidro Mejía-Centeno, Angel Martínez-Hernández, Gustavo A. Fuentes

Abstract
The use of low-sulfur fuel is known to improve the performance of the three-way catalytic converter (TWC). However, in this work we report how low-sulfur operation of commercial TWC also favors formation of N2O and NH3 as by products. We found that low-sulfur rich operation above 300 °C increases the production of NH3, inhibiting the formation of N2O characteristic of high-sulfur operation. During lean operation, the production of N2O near the stoichiometric point is not significantly affected by the sulfur level. The large production of N2O observed during light-off is not affected by SO2 when the operation is lean, but under rich conditions N2O is produced up to 575 °C.

 

I'm wondering if that's the smell I'm chasing instead of my assumed spilled gear oil somewhere in the truck

 

With my 4.56 gears I'm scared if my truck can go that fast lol

 

This came in yesterday, now I don’t have an excuse not to take things apart again. My truck is an x-runner, and nothing big electrical wise other than a small amp, and high watt h4 bulbs. I don’t even need anywhere near 200 amps, but it’s new, and will definitely charge the battery faster. I think the oem alternator that’s still on the truck is a 90 or 100 amp? Either way, hopefully it will be a big improvement.

ps: from what I’ve seen, high amp alternators tend not to charge well at idle and low speed, thus the usual need for smaller pulleys on the alternator, and resulting higher drag. Just wondering what other members experiences with these BMR alternators are regarding charge at idle speed?

 

howdy fellas. not here as much being busy with life. if you like check out my new hot rod. its in hobbies thread i think. 1/4 hp but worth it.
olivia the minihorse.

 

Lol nice

 

thanks! its a fun time. once i get this done ill get back to the truck.