Manual proportioning valve question

YO
This the invoice for my proportion valve and 2 fittings from Jegs

 

There is my thread out there

like Speedytech stated….need to remove return line and have one extra brake line

on mine….. I mounted under bed thou

so nice not to stop with 100% front ONLY brake bias

 

Yes, I am aware that the return line will need to be removed and plugged at the master. The only two lines should be the in/out for the valve (instead of 3 lines) right? The set-up will of course depend on where I put it. My fittings look pretty gnarly going into the existing proportioning valve, so if I can't break them free, I'll have to do the under-the-hood option with a short *in* and one long *out*

Any suggestions on pre-bent brake lines for the one long line if I go with the under-hood option? Or just cut and flare myself?

Thanks for the help. Fittings are sitting with penetrating oil on them now

 

This is my setup for under the hood. I struggled a little with how long the braided lines should be. If you want, when I get home later, I can pull up the stuff I ordered to do it.

Also, I did try my luck with doing the universal lines & bending them. Ultimately, I ordered from my local Toyota & picked them up because they charge a whole lot to ship them. I did struggle though, with getting the line to meet up with the rear line bracket because it fell about 3-4in short due to the valve no longer being there. Clear as mud? I can post a pic later which should clear up what I’m referring to. Course others may have figured this out easy peasy & will pipe in.

I’m telling ya though, if you think you stand a chance with the lines at the valve, try that tool I posted.

 

Yeah, I get what you're referring to about the pre-bent line being too short in the rear. So instead of a hard line out from the new valve, you went to a steel braided flex line? Does it then go into a hard line? I assume its just because trying to bend a hard line right there would be too difficult?

Yeah some more pics wouldn't hurt I guess. If you don't mind sending a list of what you ordered, that'd be great

Thanks!

 

You can get your fittings and even a premade line here www.belmetric.com then get this

$67 Lisle 33260 Flaring Tool

flaring tool and make as many brake lines as you want.

 

If I get what you’re asking, no. There’s one braided that runs from the master cylinder to the valve. Then another from the valve to the bracket where the hard line originally went.



You can see the return one on the left with the hole sealed off. Then the braided line to the send/outgoing bracket on the right. It was more expensive to do it this way, but I had proven myself to be very challenged when it came to dealing with bending my own lines. Installing the lines was the one job I seriously considered paying someone to do. Then I switched to the preformed lines. It still was rough getting that rear part squared away, but I gave myself an at’a girl when it was all said & done. Then when I did the rear brakes, I did the the two rear lines as well. & when I did the tundra brake swap up front, I did those lines. All Toyota ordered…. Wasn’t messin around….

 

See, that’s nice. I used a parts store bought one, so it was essentially too long. That one I did have to bend…. & zip tie over & over til I got it just right because it kept leaking. Finally got it….

 

I used an L bracket, drilled a hole through the lip on the firewall & attached the valve.

 

I see now. Then the braided line goes dow to the connection on top of the frame. Did you have to deal with ABS?

 

This is my current situation. This truck spent a lot of time up north so the flare nuts around the LSPV are ridiculous.





i was able to crack this one open (the one that goes from the LSPV into the rear flex tube)



as well as this one-



my current thinking - since I have ABS - would be to replace the line that goes from this connector on top of the frame all the way to the LSPV, put it in the new Prop valve somewhere back there in the rear, then a new small hard line from the new valve to the flex hose.

It seems like everyone does this modification differently. Is that a logical thing to do?

 

No. I don’t have ABS.

 

nice i like this. I also noticed that they have just generic brake line with M10x1 fittings already on, although it’s bubble flare, I could use a bubble>inverted adapter. I could do that line all the way from the L on the frame to the new prop valve, bending it along the way

 

Makes sense to me as long as you’re not needing to adjust it a lot. Mine was set it, try it & forget it. I’ve put some pretty heavy loads in the bed & really didn’t notice anything that caused me to adjust it.
That said, no matter what, if you’re replacing the line, there is the cut & ratchet option. So just cut the line close to the fitting & use a 10mm socket to remove the fitting. It works as long as you’re not twisting any attached line. Or since you’re just removing the LSVP, you can leave the fitting. I actually had to cut my old valve off. Well, I suppose I could have left it there, so let’s say I chose to cut it off. It looked about as bad, if not worse than yours.

 

Why add a bubble flare-to-inverted adapter? If you are making the lines, just go ahead and add a bubble flare fitting on one end...the other end would be an inverted flare fitting.

 

I see what you’re saying. Those that I’m talking about on their site already have flares/fittings, they’re just not bent.

 

I may try to cut and re-flare the existing line. Does anyone know the diameter of the original hard line? I know that it could be 4.75mm, 4.25mm, or 3/16. Wondering for the size of the brake end to use on it.

 

All of those sizes will use the same fitting.