Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Lucky they have a alignment rack now to get you dialed!

 

They do! Although i'm 4hrs away with a ferry, unfortunately aren't able to pay them a visit as often as i'd like. But have only dealt with them from the start & wrenching on my own. Learnt many things on the way and i've been enjoying it. If i'd be closer i would def have brought it over for alignement ...
Thankfully i've got 24/7 access to a shop, some tools & a lift, just sucks running into issues when you know you didn't mess it up

 

anyone know how the pucks are supposed to be

found two articles saying they should be in the rear
Looks like mine are in front pushing the LCAs back to rub pinch weld

want to make sure I get it right before doing another alignment since I just changed my springs


you can see mine is 1 puck rear
2 pucks front
Which pushes the LCA back

as opposed to pics I found of this 4runner
3 pucks rear
To push the LCA forward

 

Spacer pucks should be at the back of the LCA to push your arm forward.
Cam tab lobe ->, small shim -> LCA -> however many pucks you want to space forward -> rear tab. Cam bolt & nut -> jam nut

 

Forgot to reply the msg^ but just flip your pucks around to the back. Photo above is my pass. Side for reference. Front being right side of photo.

 

if it works it works

thinking I might need to do this myself lol
Set the toe and limp it to alignment shop

so that everything is on installed position ready to be adjusted

because if I ask them to do it
And they see it’s not stock
Start mentioning shim this puck that
They might look at me like I’m speaking Chinese and put something upside down

either now on the floor or just run 0 toe and deal with it later in a shop with lift and alignment rack where getting it close or right is probably much easier than the floor.
Lining things up on a lift is tricky enough, probably even more so on the floor.

Changed my springs at a gas station surprised how quick and easy. A little less tricky.
Shoutout HOA


I don’t know if other parts used changes puck orientation
Such as JD UCA

or if EVERY setup is ideally all 3 picks in back for max front tire push

 

Each pucks goes up by 1/4" increments i believe. But depending on tire size & UCA you can fine tune...i just went full push forward and called it a day.

Ended up w/5° caster, 0 camber & toe, drives great, no issues so far (other than fucked hardware from the shop now..lol)

 

Mine's around 1, 2 deg pos camber
maybe slightly above 2deg

def not 5 or 6
so maybe yeah does need pucks forward then might try it see what happens

last time aligning trying to get as good a camber and caster out of it how it sits now seemed to have a limit and was a fight so hopefully that's what it is
running the .25 UCA's that I believe is recommended to match to the Pivots, and per website leaves job of pushing forward to the pivots - which probably would mean set the pucks to push forward.

 

If i remember correctly, rear lca all the way outwards
Front lca all the way inwards
Then adjust toe

 

If running the .25” UCAs and the lower kit pushed all the way forward is 5 deg caster the number to shoot for? Running 35” tires if it makes any difference.

 

apparently mine has signs of tire hitting the front of the tub at bump
Indicating how it’s set is an ideal balance in the middle between both.
Gonna leave it how it is.

Cycling it you’ll probably see.

 

Sorry if I missed it, is yours set at 5 deg? I’m just wondering what to tell the alignment tech.

 

no. I forget exactly. Mine was around 2.
Gonna mess with it more later.

What you can get depends on how your parts are configured.

 

Happy Birthday to @toyota_dreams/81Trekker!

 

Has anyone adjusted front ride height after a setup that had the Cam bolts drilled out already? Thinking of lowering my front a bit and pretty sure Ill have to adjust the cam bolts but not enough to get complete new thru bolt locations on the lower pivot tabs

 

So here’s my opinion. I don’t use the locking bolts and have yet to have an issue. Those bolts, properly torqued have so much clamp force it’s ridiculous. The 3/4 torque spec is 315ftlbs. 5/8 is 180.

 

Likewise, never locked the cams in and never had them spin. Too many other variables that may require alignment to commit in my opinion. Even a gusseted spindle can still bend pretty easy

 

I love the confidence i get from having those cams locked in.

 

What PSI are people “fitting” into their 35’s?

alignment should be good
I’ll double check

getting cupping on the front tires.
Tire shop said they think the door spec (29cold) is too low for these tires and should be run higher.

am thinking of trying chalk test to see how it looks and if that guides towards determining a good road pressure.

 

37" tires (Baja Boss E rated) at 25PSI street driven, even wear on mine for the past 2 years.





The time is coming up to replace my upper arm EMF joints as it seems they are starting to have play after 2 years. What would everyone reccomend, convert to uniballs or stick with EMF?

05-23 tacoma upper arm uniball conversion – JD Fabrication

Tacoma 1" EMF Uniball Replacments – JD Fabrication