Anything welding

your gonna like having really dry air...

 

Oh for sure

I like to get what the shop makes and invest some of it back; my friend who has a Hypertherm Sync 65 actually talked me out of buying a Hypertherm 45 XP

Not that it would be a bad investment, but because my setup is dialed in so well that on my current table it wouldn't really make much of a difference so I took his advice

Think really the only upgrade left (in the far future) would be a larger table

 

Any experience with Weldpro, Primeweld, Eastwood or Everlast Tig 200 ish AC DC machines - looking to do aluminum and some other stuff.

 

Learned, ran, and owned a PrimeWeld 225X working on aluminum

Used an Eastwood TIG, also learning aluminum

The Eastwood was "easy to use" whereas the PrimeWeld really allowed you to dial it in for different types of aluminum

That and PrimeWeld's pulse feature is great

I'd vote for PrimeWeld, unless you can get a Miller Dynasty for cheap as I used that in the professional world

 

Also, depending on how much you're going to TIG should easily influence your decision to go water cooled or not.

 

Don’t want a big machine - just something to put in my daily and cruise over to work on my truck with.

 

Then hopefully my initial response helps!

Like I said, I learned on both the Eastwood and PrimeWeld but actually bought a PrimeWeld because I liked it that much.

Sold it only because I realized I wasn't going to TIG much at all at home (but still maintain a lift-arc TIG setup).

 

At this point in time the imports are a good size for my mobile friendly setup which I’m going for - some day I’ll be ready for a semi-permanent rig.

 

I mean, I've been running cheap imports for awhile now

What was supposed to be a 30% duty cycle on their small MIG180 was more like running tons of long beads for over an hour on 3/16"



I only noticed it wasn't 'burning as well' and hour and a half in so I took a break and let the machine cool down; it never actually stopped welding and didn't prompt an OC or anything but had I been welding thinner material or taking longer breaks in between, I don't think I would've noticed anything at all

Since then I've been running a MIG285 and it has tons of headroom

I'd opt for their 325X if you want some headroom out of an AC/DC TIG welder.

 

Roof rack 2.0 these little 120v welders from tractor supply can get down. A little bit cold in the first arc which sucks for small welds but once it's running it welds smooth.

 

Think I found another fun welding project to try out.

https://brennans-garage.com/products/tauler-jack-kit?variant=43668050444592

I wanna run this setup in the Bronco and leave the high lift in the Tacoma.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc4MXRloa0g

 

We carry a trailer jack in the race car. It's small to fit but it's a bit heavy. Only issue is you have to crank it all the way up/down when needed. But we haven't used it yet.

 

ye wise welders,

How would one weld this to be tall and enclosed so moving boxes don’t fall out?

flux weld a yard mesh fence to it?


like this
Maybe weld vertical square tubing
attach fence mesh
Step 2 cut my hand bleed everywhere
Step 3 ruin the resale

that or hope everything can fit low
Not stacked
Enclosed boxes for rain
Cargo net on top

burn sage over it cast anti crackhead thief blessing

 

Weld some angle for verticals post, and also for a horizontal topper. Some blocking and some lathe metal sheets. Finish with some paint.

 

alright
So if my noob brain understands
-angle steel sides (I get that for corners, not sure I get why for sides. Maybe stiffness)
-sheetmetal walls
-blocking I’m guessing means ribs between the verticals to hold them

I’ll have to look up materials cost see whats cheaper, easier, lighter
What thickness is needed and what type of welder

or if entirely made of wood is better

but I’m guessing wood has numerous downsides:
-not water resistant
-can bow
-probably bigger weaker maybe even heavier
-might not be as simple as welding

I wonder if this would be cheap to pay a pro given how simple it sounds
Or better do myself
Justify getting a welder
And take the time to let things cool and weld different sections to avoid warp

because if it comes down to get a trailer for $1k and welder
Vs piss away $2k to uhaul
The former is a way better deal get something out of it

and for something like this I doubt it needs to be some big strong expensive 220v mig welder
Surely even a cheap little flux core and metal is still gonna be stronger than wood and screws

sheet metal would be nice but honestly considered mesh just because it doesn’t need to pretty
Just keep boxes from going flying on the road

hopefully no materials are so heavy that they eat into the total carrying capacity of the trailer

 

^ if I was to pick metal and welder
It’d probably be this welder

+ pray the metal is thin enough for it to work. Plugged into regular wall

already have mask and gloves

then I guess resell after or keep for light duty like broken bolt extracting

 

Lathe metal sheet. Not sheet metal. It’s the “mesh”

$52 Steel Expanded Metal Sheet Flattened (3/4 #9) .120" x 24" x 48"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FY3Y54K

If you’re having hard time visualizing what I was saying, you’re just building the same thing just your first photos side, but built on top of that.

the blocking gives it more strength and something to weld the lathe metal onto. It can also help keep you’re frame square

 

yes

 

@TacoTuesday1

Decide if you want it to be permanent, or removable

Draw up a plan

Buy material

Bring it over, and we'll weld it up

Pizza and beer required, along with a red bull or two

 

where are you located?

Yeah...I was just thinking that...
It'll take a lot of mental gymnastics to make things "bolt on"
I guess, flanges and holes
which the HFT frame may not even have holes as it sits, for that, which drilling would tamper with

for example, "bolt on" vertical supports for the folding Harbor Freight
to keep it foldable

versus welding on supports, that folding Harbor Freight trailer starts to become not really foldable anymore
that could be convenient to keep it
fold up, store it against the garage wall

they have their purposes
for example, moving toolbox in an out of work? 300lb+
way easier on a trailer. Sometimes sellers even require it to release.
Moved my double bank in the truck bed and well, that's how tools fall everywhere

welding frame and fence to one may not tank the value
it's still got use. Things can be cut.

Gonna research try to decide what's better
the harbor freight $500 or lowes $1000
Lowes at least has 1yr warranty
might dig into the manuals see if there are any discernible differences
such as if one has bigger and beefier axles and wheels

at the end of the day if it comes out to
buy $1k, use, sell $700
that still gets the move done at a good cost
and gets the next guy who buys it and needs it a good deal

Material i'm guessing is gonna be either
home depot
or local metal supply store
maybe a Legit hardware store (ex. marshalls hardware in SD)