TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I also believe this was most likely the issue.

 

Is that the TRD intake or is it an AFE intake with a TRD lid? Mine is an AFE with TRD lid and I put carb stickers over the AFE logos afraid I wouldn’t pass smog

 

I agree with others as to the belt issue, and the above certainly sounds like it. What belt were you using and how old was it? Did you ever hear or feel any belt slip before this?
By chance was there any change of load to the belt, ie a hard shift into the next gear, or sudden change of throttle? I’m just throwing it out there, I know you said you were just cruising. In my experience, belts usually don’t break under a steady even load.

 

I was using the gates stocksize RPM belt, and the belt looked fine, I didn’t check the inner grooves on it but it was still in one piece, with a few minor frays on one edge. When I heard the squeaking I was just cruising, I did give it slight throttle (from maybe 1500 rpms to 2000) and the noise obviously got faster so I let out and started coasting. I saw a road so I tried to turn off but the truck was dead so no power steering but I luckily was able to make it off and stop.
From the time I heard the squeak to the truck stall it was maybe 15-10 seconds. I got super lucky there was somewhere I could pull off to.

As far as age of the belt it had to be probably almost 2+years old. I didn’t notice any belt slipping recently but I had been babying the truck the last few days because I wanted to do an mpg test lol.

Here’s a few more pics from last night


This is what I could see while waiting for the tow truck.

Then during further disassembly I saw this which hurt my heart a little but I was still mostly worried about the engine.

You can see the main engine serp belt also started to work its way off by like 1 groove as well.

 

Anthony, did the rpm belt break? Not sure if you mentioned that already? If it did, can you post a pic of the ends where it broke?

 

im sorry man. i agree in the event of engine fail a low mileage motor swap is more cost effective. i have my oe tensioner ( and intend to keep it) but would gladly send it to you if there is a long delay on you getting another one.

 

It’s still in one piece. Here is more pics of carnage

 

wonder if the bolt is so hard it is brittle? my 2 cents is possible alignment of pullies. how many miles since bolt install?

 

You don’t need to swap your ECU you’ll be fine with TRD tune ecu

 

This was the new ones from @Athlaos ?

 

That looks like an epic brittle fracture to me. Like one or two small beech marks from fatigue and then bam. I would say you were super unlucky and got material from a bad heat!

 

That sounds plausible. However, if indeed a brittle fracture, would that cause a belt to slowly (10-15 secs) slip and squeal as @Murphinator described? Do these type of breaks occur in a split second?
Another theory may be a belt working its way off a pulley, losing grip and causing a squeal, then coming off suddenly. The resultant loss of tension load upon the tensioner causing it to violently snap back with resulting shock to snap the stud? Is this even possible?

 

yessir

I know Murphy’s law is very strong with me so it wouldn’t surprise me if thats the case haha.

The belt never fully came off, it was mis aligned on the crank and lower pulley but it was still attached and with a lot of tension on the upper two pulleys for sure. What you are saying is possible I think though. Maybe it wasn’t all the way on the tension idler and it started to twist the belt which I could see it putting more and more pressure that way maybe.

 

Aem 30-40110 uego is reading full lean all the time, just dashes. Lsu 4.9 sensor.
Is it even worth troubleshooting or should I just buy another sensor. Worked great until today. When engine is started it will read stoic and then just fall full lean.

 

Mine did the same thing. Try a denso, part # is on pg1

 

I'm quite disappointed to hear this happened on the new studs. Strongly suspicious of it being to hard, and a softer more malleable metal is actually the better choice in this case. More psi of tensile strength isn't necessarily better for a side load fatigue application? I like the idea of upgraded studs, but without some technical analysis and modeling it is anyone's guess what exactly IS an upgrade? I dunno, crossing fingers this is a murphy's law issue, one off, for @Murphinator . Wish one of us had a family member that worked at ARP or something... where we could get a proper failure analysis done on the stud itself.

 

It seems everyone else has been running theirs happy with no issues. I cannot really say whether it was a stud or a belt issue at this point. A bit above my pay grade honestly. Luckily just got the rest of the stud out so that was a huge relief

 

Did I see in the pics you had the NST lower pulley or am I confused with that? What upper pulley size please? And do you have any wrap mod?

 

Nst stock size crank and sc crank pulley as well as water pump. Upper is a 2.85 stealth, no wrap mods. Stock tensioner, then I had 4 brand new scol double rollers and one new middle pulley for the sc. older rpm belt which still looks usable even after all this which is pretty amazing to me

 

Sucks dude. I feel your pain. I had one of my pulley bearings grenade during a spirited run years ago. But luckily my belt took the damage and not my pulleys. That’s why I’m skeptical of rpm belts and them being indestructible.

Maybe the belt did walk off from the lowest idler pulley. I know that lowest pulley can only go in one way. If it’s flipped wrong then it’s off from the overdrive SC pulley just slightly.