Dobinson MRR set up

Installed my MRR setup a few months back and was sure to give everything a healthy coat of fluid film.

 

Just jumping into this thread so I haven’t had a chance to read all the posts. Are they susceptible to corrosion or just as a preventative measure? I live in a salt state and did wonder how they’d fare over time.

 

Anything is susceptible overtime. ESPECIALLY the salt brine being used today. Be sure to have your frame treated as well!

 

Finally got a chance to install my setup. Hydro has already been changed over to a 2.5. Was just testing the 4.0 to see clearance. I'm running 318 in front and 111R in rear. I have a 112 leaf that I'm installing sometime this week. Need a little more out of the ass.

 

Shpixx on Instagram reported needing to rebuild his MRR’s after 2.5 years/38,000 miles after they started to leak oil.

Has anyone else had to rebuild so soon?

 

My fronts have about 45,000 miles, that also includes off road miles. They're not leaking but ready for rebuild.

 

One final question, and hopefully my next post will be photos with them on.

The installing shop is going to install Dobinsons' heavy duty springs, since I want to put on a winch/bumper (probably aluminum) down the road. I'm not exactly sure how soon that will be, though. Would I be better off installing medium duty and then upgrading later on, if I don't add the extra weight until next year sometime? Will the ride be too harsh with stock front weight until then?

 

It's like saying you'll get pants that are 2 sizes bigger because you will gain weight one day. They won't fit right if you don't have the added weight.

The coils will be firmer and will most likely lift more if you don't have the proper weight on them. It's best to go with what you've got now, then upgrade the coils later to match the weight when you do add it. If it's not a lot of weight, you can simply adjust the preload to regain lost height.

 

What determines that they are ready for rebuild? Just the amount of miles you have?

 

I think you need to have a plan for the exact amount of weight you're going to add and also that you are going to add it sooner rather than just someday. If you can't answer those questions then you should buy the springs that are best for your current setup. I bought heavier springs but 6 months later I put on a steel bumper then a few months later a winch. It wasn't bad but I wouldn't want to drive around like that for much longer than I did.

 

Dampening performance has deteriorated. Especially my rebound.

 

Thank ya. I might actually expedite the added weight then… probably a low pro winch bumper by SSO.

 

Whats the fix for a stuck rebound adjuster? PB Blaster? I try to loosen and it rotates the whole rod that its threaded on.

 

Front shock? Is it covered in rust?

 

Front coilover/shock, yes sir. Coverered in rust? looks 20-30% to me on the one I was able to break free.

 

I see so the adjuster knob is stuck and won't turn. Maybe some rust got inside there. Maybe hit it with PB for a few days You could call Dobinsons Florida office for advice or maybe it's covered under warranty.

 

Those adjusters aren't supposed to be on there so hard. Just hold the lower nut (18mm I think), and turn the top adjuster off with a 19mm. The shaft should not turn then.

 

https://youtu.be/wTgFVvaMzfk

 

They initially weren't. They were just snugged up. They've been on for 3 years now. When I tried removing the adjuster, the whole rod spins with it and the lower nut doesn't move at all.

 

Got the other one off. Mike was right, just put wrenches on both and it knocked it free. Also got my upper bushings replaced and those rebound bearings swapped to magnetic, ha.