What parts would I need to buy for a 2 inch lift besides coil overs and rear shocks

I wanted to get these Fox Coil overs, and just replace the existing coilovers in the front, and shocks in the rear, then add a 1 inch block in the back, or a new leaf pack, for a total lift of 2 inches in the front, and 1 in the rear. I dont know much about the parts required for a lift, but would I need any other hardware new, or could I keep all the stock stuff like control arms and stuff? From my understanding upper control arms specifically need to be replaced when going over a 2 inch lift, so I should be fine with the stock ones?

 

That’s pretty much it. Front coilovers, rear shocks, rear 1” block or AAL. Use new Ubolts and nuts when adding a block or AAL.

At 2”, UCA’s are mostly optional.

You may want to consider a sway bar relocation/drop kit but that’s also optional at 2” up front.

 

2” is where most people will start to suggest new UCA’s

 

why
Why that when 6112/5160 is thicker, has a reservoir in back, for less money

no, shocks do not lift. They dampen. That’s why they’re called shocks. Shock absorber. They absorb shock. Rear height is determined by the leaf pack.

 

What I’ve always read is UCAs are needed above 2.5” lift. I lifted my 2015 2” with Bilstein 6112s well over a year ago and have had no issues with stock UCAs.

Highly recommend new leaf packs in the rear rather than a block. You might consider upgrading your bump stops while you’re in there. Some people like to replace the leaf pack / shackle bolts, I didn’t. Your leaf packs will come with replacement ubolts. Some people like to install extended brake lines when lifting the rear, I did not.

Going back to the front I would recommend new top hats. You can get them on Amazon.

Also, you might consider preemptively replacing your needle bearing with the ECGS bushing while you have the suspension apart.

 

You may be able to get away with keeping the existing leaf pack, but at 7 years old I'd go ahead and get a new leaf pack, assuming you plan to keep the truck for a while.

 

Yea I said I would do blocks or leafs in the back for 1in

 

My brother is planning on doing 6100's on his 4Runner, they are the same price without res, What makes them better? I might just get those instead.

 

Im looking at leaf packs, and theyre like 800-1000$, I found some from rough country for less than 400, would those be worse than OEM?

 

I think what's missing from your statement is that if you do anything more than 1" in the rear, new shocks should be considered as you don't want to over-extend your rear shocks at full droop. And yes, typically, springs lift, shocks absorbers accompany springs (coil overs, leaf spring/shocks, etc..) as shocks need to to be able to extend far enough depending on how much droop your setup provides. Front coil overs, springs/shocks go hand-in-hand and you only get a determined amount of droop/stuff based on IFS. The rear is where the shock extension needs to be taken into consideration.

 

from what I remember, compared to what you posted
the 6112 is cheaper and much thicker, reported to be around 2.3"
matches 5160
has HD spring option. Was chosen for TRD Pro 4runner. Common upgrade.

I think that original pic is thinner shock.

 

well, it's called Rough Country
they sell shit
they go on shit vehicles
and the name sounds shit

and there is nothing rough about it
So no

I bought RXT used ~$300 and have seen it multiple times
1 AAL is $90
Icon AAL a bit more

kinda like asking hey guys, do you recommend I chug a 2l bottle of regular mountain dew right now
no
but at the end of the day you will do whatever you want, even if it is not good

TSB pack from dealer: free
1 aal (just one option) $90
cheaper than $400 from SleepWithMyUncleCountryOffRoad

 

The RXTs at option 1 will provide about 2” lift with no weight in the back.

 

op1 people report flattening
Op2 they advertise it would sag under the weight of just a camper shell alone. Gives it a good slight rake look.
Therefore op3 seems best

went on a non moving trip and had sag in op3. Can’t imagine lower setting. Rides fine about same as the front with HH

 

Mine was originally about 2.25” at option 1 and then settled to about what’s advertised, no sag. You’re not confusing settling with sag are you? I follow a couple threads on the RXTs and don’t recall reading about sag, would be interested to see where these comments are.

 

depends what weight is on the bed and what you carry

 

Well, yeah that’s the whole point of following the chart and having three options. If you regularly carry a couple hundred pounds you would install option 2. 600 pounds or more you install option 3. I chose option 1 because my bed is empty most of the time, and my results align exactly with what Icon advertises.

Can you point me to the comments where people are experiencing sag with those springs?