Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

Well done! I really don't understand how that happened given how little force you had on that tire. I also don't know how the rear mount could bend, but I have seen them pull out of the frame.


Keep posting in here if you want, probably also belongs in the cracked thread.

 

Suprised all that happened without breaking the stub.

My add housing cracked when the stub broke, but I think it was damage because of the stub breaking. @theesotericone bent the passenger side tube but I think it bent up?

If you want a different spare I have a few sitting since I swapped to manual hub extensions. I haven’t broken any of those housings, but the internals still break.

Why stop at the 8” front when you could lift the motor a couple inches and cram in a 9” haha. I think if you are doing the work it is the better option, unless you could get away without shortening the 8”

 

Mine did bend up. Still have no idea how it happened since the skids where fine. It went up far enough to put a small dent in the oil pan. Then since it was rolled up my passenger CV had more droop then normal which led to me breaking 4 CV's on the Dusy Ershim. My personal record for a single trail. lol

 

What 9" did you fit in there?

 

Like a turtle on a fence post!

Well done!

 

Tundra. Just test fit it for now since I want to wheel it.

with motor raised 1.5-2” I just need to clearance a little on the oil pan, probably doable with a hammer. And maybe a touch of grinding on the rack. Bell housing is clear which was my big thing.

Next step is buy tundra spindles to see if I can figure out a way to adapt the lbj to work and maybe shorten them and inch or two. Really don’t want to have to fab spindles.

passenger side shaft there seems to be just enough room to shorten and respline the add style passenger side the right length to turn it into a solid shaft, then use oem tundra cv axles with a 3.5 kit like the other guy that did the swap.

 

These have Rezpa at both ends and can hit steeper angles than the OEM style tundra joint even with machined cups.

 

Goddamn impressive Jake!

Now if you can also adapt the Tundra rack for beefier steering too.

 

I assume thats a 2nd tundra?

Surprised you can lift the engine that much without the bell housing colliding with the transmission tunnel. Or do you have a body lift?

Seems at that rate just getting custom CV axles to use the OEM spindles would be fine. Hell I bet you could mod or get modded the solo spindles with their big dana 44 cv or whatever it is.

Interesting. Cool, good to know. Im kind of surprised they clear the shocks too. Even OEM CVs are pretty close to the shocks.

 

2nd gen tundra yes. No body lift and it is close at the tunnel but doesn't hit. hood hits the intake and TB but trimming the webbing out could make it work.

I think keeping the oem tundra cvs would be nice since they seem stout, if it doesnt work them go to RCVs

or figure out what insane price RCV would charge to make me a tundra size inner spline with a cup that will fit the cv joint on my current RCVs

 

yeah found that guys thread. Made a custom ADD shaft too.

pretty bad ass. Could run 37s confidently that way.

 

Yea he is not easy on that thing. He is working on a steering setup with a box for mechanical linkage attached to a 2.5 double ended ram that will be cool to see.

 

If I was going fast in the desert, I'd commit to IFS. But the commitment to IFS and 37's in the rocks baffles me. The numerous modes of failure you guys have discovered would make me insane as a rock donkey.

 

I can’t speak for anyone here but I really enjoy following my solid axle buddies and trying the same lines. 35’s and lockers on these trucks can make them do some impressive shit. Granted it needs to be done with more finesse or shit blows up but still. Also I think a lot of us don’t want the truck down for a whole year chipping away at a swap.

 

You can do a leaf sprung setup in a few weekends.

Blazing your own path and being unique is fun, following the other thousands of SAS builds is meh. We don't progress being followers. More and more ifs rigs in Ultra 4 every year, hell even some irs cars now too.

 

Me and a buddy did the whole thing in a day on a 91 pickup. Leaf sas is ezpz if you have everything on hand

 

I guess I should have been more specific, a SAS that is comfortable and controllable on the highway the way IFS is likely will take a year (and caveat this is also based on Dad time) aka an hour or two every other day or two at a time.

 

I honestly wonder if a radius arm or maybe a well setup 3link with tons would handle better than what I have for long hauls on road. This thing is a handful sometimes.

As for ifs in the rocks, I’m delusional and want something different. It is however very satisfying to be able to dust anyone I wheel with by driving fast on trails between the real obstacles. Also keeps a little fun in it if I go out with people that are closer to stock.

 

Ah yeah, you want links haha. The leafs handle okay but I'd take a crappy IFS over leaf SAS any day still on the hwy or dirt.

 

You've gots to work faster then . I'm a relatively slow fabricator and cut the frame off my truck on January 9th, back on the road April 21st with the 3 link finished.

You must really enjoy masochism

I'll say it again, IFS has its place. Go fast, overlandy rigs meant to cover a lot of miles in the desert, or having fun in the rocks on 33's or 35's at MOST are great applications for it! A serious crawler on 37" tires and up isn't it. There's just not enough angle in a CV joint in an IFS application to get decent steering angle and droop without overextending the working range of the bell and going pop. You end up spending more money on a setup that performs significantly worse in big rocks that actually warrant 37's and turns into a trail tampon when it breaks. And it's a matter of when, not if....

-CV's will break, often.
-Steering racks are now a wear item.
-CV's stubs that break inside the diff are a complete PITA to trail fix when you have to pull the front diff to extract.
-CV's will break, often.
-The 7.5" diff isn't big enough.
-Cracks...everywhere. Coil buckets, LCA mounts, etc.
-CV's will break, often.
-Bent spindles
-Bent ITR's
-ADD shafts and tubes
-Oh did I mention, CV's will break all the time?


On the U4 side...IRS is not very competitive, the Triton cars were so over engineered that they just won't last and the UFO IRS is a bomb ass TTB setup that hasn't made much noise either. Even the IFS guys bitch and moan about how much it sucks to maintain compared to the SA stuff. Constant, never ending maintenance to keep it together with a huge price tag up front when you have to buy $25k in portal boxes alone to make it work. UFO's with the SA rear, IFS front and single seat have been the ticket when the Gomez's don't break them. And when they do, a Miller or Bomber SA car is always right there since they are so much faster in the rocks.