Long Travel BS Thread

They are still under the bed.

Looks mighty close to what my final setup is!

 

Full bump to as much droop as the leafs will allow. Won’t be anymore funny business with poor shackle angles. I ended up bringing the pivot to the bottom of the frame to pick up a little ride height.

Can’t stress enough how big of a change it is. Actually began drawing up a full kit with what I learned from this. I’ll go full commit once I know all is well.

 

Question, Caboose has some Deaver U540HD I'm interested in, but I Believe the HDs will be way to much for my set up. Can you remove a spring to make them the light duty spring like a U644?

 

Previously, my H70hds were too stout. Deaver suggested removal of the 5th leaf and it was the absolute perfect balance.

 

Yes, go with an HD pack and remove a spring. You can always add it later when they start to sag out. I'm a couple trips away from putting the leave back in my pack.

 

I know this is going to sound retarded but is there anything stopping me from running a 10" coilover with a 3.5 kit?

 

Extra fab and custom shock tower

 

Mitch made has one I think? I could be wrong
https://slewhousemotorsport.com/products/toyota-anti-dive-delete-coil-over-and-bypass-mount-wiy

 

I think this is it?

 

Not sure how much gain if any would be gotten from 10” shocks on a 3.5 kit.
The most they will cycle is about 16”, and that works for a 8”. Dual rate I suppose, but I’ve heard that even a 10” dual rate isn’t really that beneficial?

 

Waste of time. Put more time and money into the rear as that will limit your truck way more than the coilover in front.

 

This

 

Ah ha I finally bought some coilovers! Found a deal for some brand new in box king 2.5s TC spec on marketplace that I couldn't pass up.

 

plus you’ll need a LT kit that has a fabricated spindle to get full use of the 10 inch shock.

 

$$$$$

 

Spend the money on bypasses and secondary mount for front instead of 10s or like stayed dump that $ into rear!!!

 

Those of you who have swapped out your EMF lower joints on the JD kits, is there any trick to it? Seen on the internet removal of everything up to the cup. Front driver has an odd clunk that seems to be worsening. Gonna tear into it tomorrow.

 

Check your lower control arm pivots without the seals in, see if the uniball cups are moving around in the sleeves.

 

Will do. Gonna be dropping the lower arm anyways. Only feel it on turns, could also be my tie-rods rubbing on the springs. I have a clearance rub on them until I either can switch out rod ends or get the slide rack.

 

I had a clunk, noticed it on turns in and out of driveways, or changing direction while turning from forward and reverse or vice versa.

3 of 4 off uniball races are spinning in the LCA sleeves. Though not sure if it’s 100% cause of the clunk but I bet it is. Had it since day 1 and I checked everything else.