Fumoto Fact(s) You Might Not Know

I'll give you a lot of credit being knee deep into a thread at #460 for something that SCARES you. I certainly don't have that level of commitment.

 

These guys aren't reading through the whole thread lol

About once a week somebody pops in to "explain how dangerous" they are and then we never see them again

I haven't found a single person who has actually used a fumoto to tell me they don't like it. It's always the guys that have zero experience with them

I will say though, you guys are just adorable with all your safety springs and clips and special pliers

I don't have shit on mine, just the lever. Never had a single problem. It just sits there doing its job

 

Probably because they got stranded in the middle of nowhere when their Fumoto valve failed, and then they got eaten by wolves.

 

I’ve hade a valve for 50k miles or so and my only issue is how deep the threads go. There is some volume of oil not draining, likely the “heaviest” most metal laden?


Otherwise a god send. With 0-20w oil it’s ridiculous trying to do an oil change either a plug. Instant mess.


Also I didn’t read the whole thread son maybe this is already addresssed.

 

Could you saw off the extra threads? Or better yet machine it on a lathe? I haven't installed mine yet, so I don't know how much extra there is.

 

How much and how far do you go off-road? Driving over anything like woody brush/thick weeds can be a very dynamic situation where I could imagine a plain, unguarded Fumoto lever maybe getting pulled open. There's a reason Fumoto makes and sells a $3 spring clip that increases the amt of force needed to jam the lever open by a factor of 25x or more.

Very cheap insurance and peace of mind. Why not?

Also, re: tampering bad persons, it is pretty possible to take the spring clip OFF with just a normal pair of pliers or leatherman tool. It's putting it back on that takes a special pliers with detents cut into it to keep the spring from flinging out sideways under the natural cross-tension it produces when compressed.

 

Yep, bullet/fact #2 in post #1.

 

You absolutely could.

 

yep, but I have yet come across a tampering bad person who also carries with them a leatherman. they also get frustrated really really fast.

 

Here’s an idea. Next time you drain the oil as you normally do, but once drained, back out the Fumoto valve and get the last lingering bit. NO MESS. You might also want to pass through a quart or two of some oil you just drained a semi-flush type of thing. I don’t think you need to do this every time, or anytime actually because that’s what the filter is for, but at a minimum it does provide some peace of mind.

How cool would it be for someone here with the skills, I read here another gentleman was considering shortening the amount of protrusion into the pan by using a lathe. I bet more than a few of us would jump on board with that.

 

If you have the lathe skills to do this there might be some here who would want to take you up on it. Another way would be to mark where the cut is required and if there’s any room left to turn on a nut you could cut it on a band saw then back off the nut to clean the threads. Then just knock off any sharp edges with a file. Next oil change I’m going to remove the valve, measure the depth and do that. I’ll probably purchase a new valve to do this with and if I can’t get it correct I’ll have the original valve to put back in.

I will report back with pictures.

 

Well, I was just looking to purchase another

$38 F133S with LC-10 S-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Short Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for 12mm-1.25

F133S so I can shorten the thread protrusion so I can remove most of the oil during a change. Come to find out they are SOLD OUT. Hmmmm, I guess there's a bunch of us after all who like the no tool, no mess kind of oil change.

 

My "offroading" consists of driving up logging roads, maybe dealing with a small washout .. I do have a RCI skid below the engine

Realistically, the chances of a tree branch opening the lever are about the same as a tree branch ripping a brake line, a radiator hose or a transmission line. It could puncture a fuel line, or rip wiring apart.
If you're that worried (I'm not saying you are) about underbody damage you should have armor covering everything front to rear.

 

Why does a small amount of old oil in the pan concern some here?

 

Because the average Tacoma owner already tends towards OCD, and the average TW formums regular is even more OCD-prone than the average Tacoma owner.



Anyone here do a timed drive at a fixed speed, then wait a fixed interval before opening the valve, and drain out to a specified number of drops per second?

Anyone here ever measure their oil-change out / in quantities in grams?

Don't forget to tare the new filter weight & compare it with the old filter!
Don't forget to tare the spillage container under the oil filter mount drip spout & measure that too.. Don't forget to weigh how much new oil you use to pre-wet the new filter. (Absorbs at least 175g of new oil!)

But let's be reasonable and not go overboard. I don't bother tare-weighing the plastic funnels I use. Probably a few grams caught on those, innit?

 

Wait till they find out the cylinders heads have pockets everywhere that can hold puddles of oil.

 

If you’re that worried about damaging your undercarriage you are driving a Honda Civic.

 

I am going to order one of these today, my question is, what is everyone doing to keep the hoards of hands on saboteurs away from there vehicles? a moat? razor wire? electric fence? Ideally, I think a Phalanx CIWS would be best but I need to save money to replace the truck once the valve dumps all my oil out.

 

I’ve been considering pulling the valve and seeing if there’s any sludge or material collecting in the pan. Probably isn’t necessary every oil change but maybe other or so. I tend to start thinking about oil changes at 5k and definitely do it before 7k so maybe pull the valve every 20k. Seems easier then cutting threads and hoping it has enough to stay tight.