Fumoto Fact(s) You Might Not Know

I wonder if you could do all that measuring and just cut two axial slots in the threads down to the point where they come through the pan? You'd keep most of the original threads this way.

If I were to get one, which configuration? Fumoto has two 90 deg adjustable valves and three straight through valves (no nipple/short nipple/long nipple) that fit my 2wd work/commuter truck.

 

I don't have a lathe, unfortunately. I'd probably just use a hacksaw or an angle grinder. The brass should be easy to cut, and you could just ease the cut edge of the threads with a file. If you make a clean square cut you won't even need a nut to clean up the threads.

https://youtu.be/AidAXgq9dWc

 

I've been changing oil using the factory drain plugs for almost 40 years without issue. Now that I've read a good chunk of this thread I'm going to order a valve for my turd and the wifes 4Runner when they get back in stock just to wrinkle the panties of all these people that take issue with what others are doing.
I do like the idea, especially with the water-like oil used in engines today. And this should end my problem with the errant gust of wind that always shows up during the drain process blowing some of the oil dribble onto the floor. I'll measure the pan thread thickness along with the crush washer and cut the threads down to match so I get a complete drain.

 

Way to come out strong on one of your first posts Rick! Welcome.

 

another possible solution to minor issue that is the thread length would be a threaded spacer or even a flange nut for the Fumoto that would be installed on the valve and secured with red loctite then the valve would not need any modification and could be installed as intended and no tools that you don't already own would be needed. I will order one and get some measurements together and see what kind of "off the shelf" solution I can come with.

 

How 'bout any of these?

 

A nut on the valve threads? You'd need to double up the gaskets and it would be asking for a leak. Also it would stick down farther.

All this just to get another tablespoon of oil out?

 

We are just thinking out loud here. Some like to tinker. If it doesn't work, you pass on it. Sorry, didn't mean to get you all worked up.

 

Who said I was worked up? We're just talking shop

I do this for a living by the way

 

You think that’s all it is? I’m having a hard time visualizing the oil pan. My wife’s last car had a divot that made the plug the lowest point but I’m thinking on my truck the oil pan section where the drain is is fairly flat. I’m sure whatever amount it is left over probably not an issue right now for me but after another 100k or something I dunno maybe it would be.

How about for science I’ll pull the valve after I drain everything and measure the oil leftover. I just changed my oil though so might be awhile.

 

If the toyota engineers were that worried they would have designed the oil pan differently. There's just not that much material - sludge, metal or otherwise in there that comes out with each change. If there is metal in the oil you've got bigger problems than leaving a few tablespoons behind

 

Nice. Thank you. Sometimes, me especially, need to be reeled in a bit. I like an earlier idea to cut a slot axially down through the threads to provide deeper oil draining.

 

I can’t remember exactly but some I believe have indicated what remains in the pan is something like 10 ounces give or take. I’ll check next time too and report back.

 

Nope. Unscrewing a bolt for the last 35 years I’ve been changing oil has been hard.
lol

 

the only reason it should really matter is if they're draining/filling the engine cold. as long as the engine is brought up to temp, the majority of particulates will be held in suspension of the oil. sure, some stuff might collect at the bottom of the pan, but sticking to a 5k-10k interval will head off a lot of it, as it's not allowing the older oil to sludge up in the first place, and all new oil as part of the SAE standard, has a minimum amount of solvents in it to break down deposits.

but if there is sludge, or engine problems, you'll likely see pieces of it in the oil that is drained out. it's good to look at it, but not necessary to do something about it every oil change.


at different points in my life, i had two variants of the chrysler 3.0L v6 motors that had a common issue where the hydraulic lifters would get plugged/sludged up and end up making for a noisy motor, as the lifter wouldn't swell as it was supposed to, and would leave a gap between the camshaft roller and the lifter itself. both vehicles came to me with lifter noise, and both left my care as quiet as they came from the factory. all i really did was stick to a 2k-3k mile oil change interval. it was early most times, but the repeated use of new oil broke down the old deposits and freed up the lifters that were sludged up.

 

So back to the bolt plug?

 

Not really. You are overlooking all the benefits. There are many.

 

well I ordered an

$40 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25

F133N and received an

$37 F103N with LC-10 lever clip FN-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

F103N, ordered through Amazon and the right label is on the wrong product, so that is getting returned and I think I will just stick with the drain plug for now, maybe in another 5k miles I will change my mind

 

There are certainly many benefits. I am going to try a ValvoMax……another decent design.

 

You got the updated one, the

$37 F103N with LC-10 lever clip FN-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

F103N is the revised version. I received the same one.