modular mount panels?

Searched didn’t find if there’s a thread please let me know

anyone know the best way to make or install modular mounting?

here is the challenge:
My bed rack has flat doors pre drilled for maxtrax and rotopax

saw one guy had custom MOLLE
Otherwise the idea is drill holes
Here’s the issue with that
-I don’t know if holes drilled in aluminum can be weld patched later
-setups always change, improve, and holes are permanent
-idk if there’s a universal hole size, or if all parts use different bolt thickness

basically trying to figure out a way to make the doors able to mount anything, and be changeable
without saying screw it and just drill a couple holes for one thing only to want to move it later



best ideas I have so far:
-drill a ton of holes like a grid
-use existing holes to bolt on MOLLE panels, but that would protrude more reducing clearance. Or drill holes for that.
-take the doors off find machine shop or somewhere to cut molle grid

Might still be a challenge to use MOLLE.
1. there seems to be no standard MOLLE. I see different designs.
2. Some kits don’t bolt to MOLLE. For example Hi Lift has a mount that’s designed for flat surfaces. It uses bolts. Maybe use MOLLE nuts?

 

I won't be drilling any more holes in the doors. Once you do, you permanently altered the door and the cap value.

I'd figure out a way to mount a molle panel using the existing holes. I would make sure the molle is offset from the door by an inch or so, so it is useable, and you can get nuts behind the panel as required. I wouldn't worrry about clearance... If you are worried about clearance, then you wouldn't want things hanging off the outside of the door.

I'd modify an existing molle panel (drill / weld / cut) to fit the existing holes, or design your own panel and find a water jet table to have it cut from a sheet.

 

exactly.

it already has a couple holes drilled elsewhere that I’m not worried about, but do want to find out if it’s something that can be patch welded shut and ground flat.

setups are always changing. What gear youre running, and switching where you put it. So to me drilling holes doesn’t make sense.

I also don’t know how strong the metal is for holding things given its aluminum not steel. But that has the benefit of being light.

honestly at this point I’m going to look into finding a CNC place and see if there is a standardized type of pattern they can cut into the doors.

that will probably cost similar to bolting on separate panels, which may have downsides
-more weight
-stresses the bolt holes
-spaces outward reducing clearance

in fact, the doors have about an inch of room (or more) on the underside/inside
To mount gear hidden when the door is closed - which if bolting on spaced out panels that aren’t an exact fit, would eat up that room.

whether it’s CNC, water jet, etc
I think it would be doable if I took off the doors to drop off with zero rush on production, if I can come up with a good pattern idea
(It seems every rack company uses something different, some even using staggered circle holes for bolts)

 

Any metal can be drilled, and patched up later via welding or brazing

It's a super simple job, and is limited to the tools at hand and the capability of the person doing said work

 

do you think aluminum can handle mounting holes?

I fear if I make holes, mount a hi lift
Over time it will just bend the aluminum door around the hole
Maybe this can be prevented with multiple mounting points, and doubling up large washers or flat bar to help spread the load

versus having them cut to a MOLLE grid, to insert MOLLE nuts from the opposite sides
Which even then, being aluminum and not steel, could have some weakness to it

 

That's dependant on the thickness of the aluminum, and how big the piece is in relation to the distance of it's mounting points.

The larger the panel, and farther away the object being mounted is from the panel's mounting points/supports, the more prone the area is to flexing/bowing

Large washers go a long way in mounting points themselves

 

Definitely something you want to look at- especially considering the weight of a Hi-Lift. Fender washers are almost always a good idea whenever you can use them but for the weight of something like the jack I'd want a a mounting plate at a minimum. Yes, the jack is only about 28#s but as Kwikvette notes, however you have it mounted it's going to have some cantilever effect and any movement, say bouncing down a washboard road, it's going to accentuate the forces on the mount.

Unless you're using parts from the same manufacturer you're probably going to have different mounting patterns. You could probably mitigate that somewhat by mounting some sort of tracks on the side that allowed you to modify the accessory instead of the rack. Another option might be installing a series of threaded inserts so you could use whichever ones worked with the accessory you happened to be using on a particular trip.

Just something else to think about, holes and slots can be bad about producing whistling or other noise which can quickly become really annoying but as anyone who rides a motorcycle can attest, noise also adds to your fatigue on longer trips. No big deal around town or if you trailer your truck to trails, but it's just something to keep in the back of your mind as you set your truck up.

 

this is one where I think they custom added mounting pattern on the doors somehow

 

Looks like a simple sheet with cutouts

Add some hinges and a latch/catch and done

 

might just reach out and ask them what pattern they used

it comes with doors already have them
hinges at top, latches at bottom
like this:

 

Two ideas -

1. Reach out to the vendor for your bed rack and ask to buy another door panel with a pattern (if they offer any such option)

2. Make your own door panel and add the modular setup you're trying to achieve, while adding some bracing for strength

This way you don't permanently alter your current setup in case of resale down the road