7 pin connector and right turn indicator/ brake

I tow a T@G teardrop boondocking. My teardrop right turn / brake lights are not working.
Took the teardrop to RV center and they hooked up a power unit to my teardrop 7pin and confirmed everything from teardrop 7pin back to the rear lights is working.
All the lights have worked fine in the past.
I have a 7pin tester that I plug into the Tacoma 7pin. It shows all lights/connections working, however when I put the right turn indicator on, the tester shows a very weak test light blink almost not noticeable. I can get a multimeter to see current on that brown wire pin for right turn/brake pin.
I’ve crawled under and found two grounds, one I believe is the 7pin connector ground, and the other I suspect is for trailer brake (that I don’t use.)
The day I noticed the teardrop light not working (running lights on right side work) it was wet on the highway, melting snow. To my knowledge nothing changed that day.
I’ve cleaned both 7pin connectors and a 4 pin connector near the Tacoma 7pin connector with electric contact cleaner.
Is there a separate ground for this one pin?
Should I just hire someone to replace the 7 pin connector on the Tacoma?
Is there anyone out there with a, “You might try…” idea?
thank you for your time.

 

Maybe bad tail light converter.

 

Check Connector BE1 for corroded pins.

No converter on a 2013 with the factory tow package, the turn signal feed for the trailer plug comes direct from the flasher relay.

Now if it's an add on 7 way on a non tow package truck then there may be a converter.

 

Test the output at the cab Haz/Turn/Tow relay (red wire _9 location)

Sequence looking INTO connector, probe wire side.

 

These are all fantastic ideas and information. “Maybe a bad taillight converter”. Had no idea what that was so I looked it up and that’s what I have tucked up there, a Curt module.

this gives me some ideas to work with. I’ll cut the zip ties tomorrow and see where all the connections are. Clean all of those as I can.

I’ll try to locate BE 1 and check the cab relay as well.

Living in small town Wyoming makes it hard to source a new parts, should I need one before I leave Tuesday morning.
Thanks.

 

Ah so you have an aftermarket setup, you won't have any of the wiring me or @caribe makaira mentioned.

Those typically tap into the truck turn and brake wiring at the rear of the truck and depending on design they either draw power from there or have a dedicated wire going to the battery.

Wouldn't surprise me if the converter is bad, they are pretty notorious for having issues.

 

Do you happen to have a Diode Dynamics SmartTap flasher relay?

 

I had to look that up to see what it is. I do not have that. I would certainly add that down the road as my base model Tacoma doesn’t have the feature of tapping the turn indicator stalk to make a lane change and getting 3-4 blinks and then auto cancel. I have to either hold it in the first position, or just flip it all the way to the second position and then manually cancel one the lane change is complete.
@Dm93 I will need to look for a replacement Curt module. I’m on the road next week with my teardrop, so hopefully I can find one or an installer willing to replace what I have now. Unlikely I know, but that’s the most likely solution I see at this point.

 

Can someone explain what the converter does? My truck came with a 7-pin to 4-pin pigtail harness that plugs into the factory 7-pin plug and the 4-pin plug on my son's boat trailer. Is this what is being discussed? I once had a car with separate left and right amber taillights (not integrated with brake light) and had to install a converter to make them work correctly on the trailer.

 

The reason I asked is because it interferes with DRLs and, if you have the tow package, trailer lights, hence the question.

I have it on mine with the tow package and I've worked around it, but just something to be aware of if you go down that road.

 

In a 2014 it's part of the HAZ/TURN/SIGNAL relay. It really is a combiner not converter. It combines the turn & stop on same lamp (tow).

 

That would be an adapter, it simply takes the 4 connections (Left Stop/Turn, Right Stop/Turn, Tail, & Ground) from the 7 way and passes them to the 4 way plug.

I'm not really sure why they call them a converter, that's not really what they do.

There are essentially 2 types of aftermarket towing converters:

The first type plugs inline with the rear lights and uses the power from those circuits, combines the stop/turn signals if necessary, and outputs that to the trailer plug.

The second type has a dedicated power supply from the battery and also plugs inline with the rear lights but it uses the rear light circuits as inputs and draws power straight from the battery for the trailer output so the load is not placed on the stock lighting system.

 

Thanks! Makes sense as I saw no signs of anything on my truck in the back near the left tail-lamp. The 7-pin to 4-pin converter I have for the trailers has LED tell-tale lights on it that activate with the various light indications to confirm everything is working at the truck connector. Invariably one or two of them don't light up until I connect and remove it a few times. It makes trouble-shooting easy when some random lamp trailer lamp isn't working.

 

Thanks!! It was quite a while ago and I had a Volvo with the separate amber blinkers, which of course the camper didn't have. The gizmo I installed worked it's magic and logic to make the trailer lamps sync with the car. The only thing I didn't have was camper battery charging off the car electrical system. That would have been nice, but it was under a bumper-to-bumper 3-yr unlimited mileage warranty when I got it which I did not want to risk jeopardizing.