Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Uniballs

 

Pics of the 37s please and the clearancing you had to do?

Edit: I know most of you are on the long travel kit. I'm specifically interested in pics fitting 37s and descriptions of bump stop shimming, cutting required, wheel offset, etc to fit 37s with stock length arms.

 

I am still in the process, most was done between 2020 and 2022. At the front I did JD lower tabs relocation, UCA and spindle gussets, steering heims, cab relocation, lot's of hammering on the fire wall, Basik Biker tundra rack - back when you had to cut off the original steering mouting points and weld new in. Rear is 12" shocks, BAMF hangers, ICON leafs. Front rubs slightly at full flex during max turn, but it's been fine for the past 2 years.


Next is to cut through the cab, make new inner fenders and figure how far can I tub (i have manual, need room for clutch). But that's a project that needs patience and time.

 

Awesome, thanks for the info. I have 35's currently, and stock length arms as well, with JD lower pivots. With narrow 35's, boy was it easy to fit things. Now that I have 25x12.5 that measure wide, I was getting rubbing on the UCA itself, which forced the use of a 3/4" spacer at the wheel hub, and that combined with wider tire really changed the clearance requirements. I want 37's and I know I'm going to have to tub the rear firewall area and do a cab mount. I'm more concerned with how intrusive the headlight, washer reservoir, battery, fuse box, upper inner fender, etc will have to be cut and modified. Versus limiting the up travel of the wheel some with spacers at the bumpstop. Can it be done without relocating the washer reservoir or fuse box? For the 35's I've already limited the up travel somewhat and I do still get rubbing all around the wheel well at full flex/steering. a whole additional inch with more for room to flex is a lot to ask for sure. Trying to determine if it is worth it. My truck is very heavy, loaded overland/adventure rig, so the real high performance wheeling or speed is NOT my thing. Wanting more ground clearance and performance of 37s, even if I have to lower the ride height some to compensate for the higher COG.

Advice welcome

Edit: I realize you have a 3rd Gen, my questions/issues pertain to 2nd gen...

 

I didn't have to relocate fuse box/washer bottle yet, I probably should, but there is plenty of room to simply raise it in the engne bay. In terms of the wheels I got these (see link) in -38mm offset, they don't rub against UCAs. I also don't have sway bar at the front, and the only limit are the bump stops for me. 3rd gen is the re-skinned 2nd gen with the minivan engine, the results should be similar.

T8 "Seeker"- Bronze 17x9 | Best Price in 2024 at Falcon Off-Road Wheels (falconoffroad.com)

 

What is the blue grease that comes on the new jd joint? Normally I use valvoline moly fortified grease for joints but would prefer not to mix grease together. Just installed my kit and can't wait to test it out!

 

when you jacked up your LCA for clearance was your bump stop still installed?

 

We don’t know what your truck weighs, how you drive it, etc. But generally, start with door sticker and go from there. Chalk test is good. I’d want the tires to get nice and warm, but not too hot after a normal drive of at least ten miles. 4-6psi above morning cold pressure.

 

I’m on 35x11.50 c loads (Falken RT) on a 6020lb truck (full tank plus me), as a daily.

I aim for 36-38psi warm (let it move around in that range depending on ambient temps).

 

35-37 I ended up around the same pressure of about 26 rear and 28 front. If you’re over 30, it’s too much in my experience.

 

Last weekend I bought @RonRon23 JDFabs +4 Kit, pretty pleased with the transaction and with him being upfront with some known issues with the Lower Arms. Thanks again @RonRon23!

The Arms are now at JDFab and being looked at. JDFabs customer service has been outstanding so far. Taking care of a Used Kit is pretty awesome. They really do stand behind their products!!






And this morning I stopped by JDFab in person to pick up the rest of the goodies needed for my upcoming front end install..


Pretty excited about those Fox 3.0 - 3 Tube Bypasses!

JDFab offered a screaming deal on the Coil/Overs that I couldn't pass up. They are the DCS flavor so they'll have to be re-valved to work with the Bypasses..

 

Anyone know what the max amount you can move the lower arms forward with the JD LT and the lower pivots? For the FJ platform, but guessing it’s the same as the 2nd gens.

 

yeah don’t see why it would be any different

 

I’m sure I'm missing it somewhere, but can you go the whole 1.875” forward?

 

based on memory, the pivots allow up to 1", the LT kit is 7/8" built in. And whatever you can do with the alignment. IMO, too much caster on a toyota is not a great thing, I had around 6 degrees once and the truck drove like crap until it came back down to under 5. Settled at a little more than 4 personally. One thing to watch out for is tie rod contact to the shock. unless you are moving the rack or the tie rods forward, it will hit. Tie rod diameter will come into play. I wish the UCAs had some adjustability built into them, so you can pick your caster number separately from the amount you move forward.

 

I’ve been debating getting another FJ. Wanted to run 37/40s as phase two and I remember how impossible steering was with the stock rack on the taco with 37s. Couple guys on here have done full hydro, but with a 2.5” ram, the steering has to mount a bit forward of the original steering line. 1.875” would probably be plenty to get things stockish if nothing else suffers.

 

How far forward can you move it? Probably all the way if you want to.

I get the slightest bit of contact to the tub at compression on 35’s so I’m not gonna move mine any more forward to exacerbate that. Might try 0.25” bump stop spacers. Already blew a bump stop somehow (since been design revision)

for 37’s (SAS is an option)
Would better parts not turn it?
Howe TC pump
Tundra rack etc

 

Did the SAS thing and chased that unicorn all the way to a tube chassis rock bouncer.

Most fun I had was when the taco was LT. Didn’t have to trailer it. Kids could have enjoyed it with me. Not sure any pump or tundra rack upgrade etc would cut it for me with 40’s though. Stock rack literally wouldn’t turn 37’s in the rocks. Miserable haha

 

and maybe slide rack
I wonder what Jeep folks do for “40’s go right on stock!”
Like what their steering system is
Probably steering box gear pitman arm whatever it’s called
Or if at that point it would help to put some electric set up


this guy put an electric rack and pump I think from some Nissan maybe SUV for whatever reason
But also not on 40’s