Rod knocking after pulling trailer up steep hill

Before we start putting this motor back together are there any other pictures we should post of the innards that might help others?

 

Could you post a picture of it from old engine if still attached?
That will definitely mess the timing up.
Remember 2016-2017 were going to limp mode due to coating issues on the reluctor

 

I think I see what the issue was.

 

We're going to try to use the newer reluctor if the older one might have issues, we'll just make sure it aligns with the alignment pin. Both of them look the same as far as we can tell.

 

Man, that would suck if it was the reluctor being off all this time. Kind of an Occam's Razor moment. But, good to finally figure out if that was it. Patiently waiting the next test run.

 

I don’t understand how your secondary timing chains could be off by HALF a tooth? Are they OEM chains or aftermarket?

 

If they were off, I think maybe it was one bank was one tooth off from the other bank. We've checked timing several times since re-assembling, so hopefully we're not wrong

 

I really thought when you purchased that used engine from @Buttskevin21 it would have just been a simple engine swap.

 

It really should've been simple, but I didn't know how finicky the crank/cam sensors could be, and whoever wrenched on it before I got it must not have known either. He said the issue came down to vacuum vs. non-vacuum, which basically is determined by which options package you have (offroad vs sport vs whatever), and he needed non-vacuum. Mine is a sport which needs the vacuum. During his fiddling around somehow the crank reluctor was mis-aligned and it seems the cam timing may have been off, virtually guaranteeing it would've never run right.

It was hard to catch the crank reluctor because when you put it on an engine stand, the flywheel is very close to the stand plate unless you have long spacers, so you really can't see behind it to the reluctor very well, which is why we didn't check or change it when we got the motor. When we pulled the engine and removed the front cover we noticed that it had already been off at least once, which is another reason we think someone did some wrenching before us.

 

Thanks for the details. That's too bad though. If anything it's a monumental learning experience I suppose. Hopefully this is the last issue and it's up and running in no time. Just be super careful with the front timing chain cover. Be meticulous and clean very well. Also be careful with the application of the fipg. Don't use too much or not enough.

 

It's things you wouldn't really know that much about if you worked on old Toyota motors (or other motors) where this stuff isn't so sensitive, so hopefully if anyone gets into 2GR-FKS motors they'll now know what to be careful on, but not to just avoid it because it's scary.

Somebody has to be the first guy, wish it wasn't me, but hopefully it'll become a good community resource.

 

I wouldn't use fipg. Small working window and greater chances to mess it up.. Permatex is better

 

I found my timing light and dwell meter the other day

The basic concept is still the same, but with electronic ignition, fuel injection, and VVT there's a lot more to understand on newer motors. But I don't miss adjusting points.

 

That was fun, holding the sun gun in one hand, trying to gently twist adjust the distributor cap, then tightening it down without it moving from the vibration. All while painfully aware of the belts and other moving parts next to your arm.

I'm only 35, but my friends and I kept buying old POS trucks and boats (with old GM motors) and trying to get them to run right.

 

Here's the old crank showing what I think is the alignment ping receptacle for the crank reluctor

 

I had a 72 Super Beetle and replacing distributor points was a fact of life. I got to where I could swap a set of points out on the side of the road and rough time the engine by ear! I would break out the dwelle meter / strobe light when I got home to tweak it to spec. Those were fun days.

 

Which way the reluctor was installed? Teeth facing towards the engine or out?

 

The reluctor seems to only fit one way with the alignment pin.

We're reassembling front cover and putting engine back in today.

Is there anything special about installing the oil pump, like does it have to align with timing marks or anything else?

 

From guy putting it together: It would not go on unless I turned it a certain way. Not sure if it's exactly like this but it went on easy when it did.